Need help... on a measurement on a 351C manual bell housing

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Q1SVT

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Like many I'm doing an auto to manual conversion. BUT I have a shatter shield BH and need to know the thickness of an aluminum BH for the two bolt holes that is used to secure the PIVOT BRACKET, the Clutch Equalizer Bar attaches to. see picture

Prefer dimension from an OEM BH... but an after-market is okay just let me know which it is.

THANKS

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Hemikiller

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I have a couple OE iron bells for the 71-73s. Will measure it for your this evening.
 

boilermaster

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I am coming up with 1.410'' for both on my OEM cast iron unit as measured with dial caliper and bell sitting on the bench.
For some reason the cast iron and it's aluminum counterpart are different dimensions in this area and I had to build spacers when I switched to aluminum. As long as you are doing this swap, I would suggest checking bellhousing runout in two planes, and start and correct radial runout first.
 

Q1SVT

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Thanks guys...

boilermaster do you know the aluminum aftermarket measurement also?

fyi I'm a long ways from needing to check runout or parallelism... but thanks

Finished fabrication of the clutch peddle press-in fittings... needed info to design options using a fox body fork & clutches with OEM 'style' manual linkages and a hydro option too... yes, know there are companies that have products for 71-3, just don't like them... lol
 

Hemikiller

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Sorry for the delay. My C5TA-A bell has the same dims as boilermaster. Mine came up as 1.435". The block plate is 14GA steel - .074".
 

Q1SVT

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Boilermaster want to say I’m sorry… a friend though my reply was not friendly.

I (we) are trying to do research without ripping up a car… You see there are five guys with five ideas / needs so we are looking at a manual linkage, a cable, and a hydro types of clutch pedal needs…. plus other combo needs. So I understand how to install transmissions. ;^)

I am interested in how you fixed your TKX shifter location through the floor… because we understand it should just fit in… [pic is a T-5 in a 71



Screen Shot 2022-01-23 at 8.34.26 AM.png Screen Shot 2022-01-24 at 5.27.57 AM.png ]

Three were send to me.
 
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boilermaster

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Q1svt,
Really?
This forum is quite tame in comparison to the Harley shovelhead forum I am also on and I have pretty thick skin.
One thing that I have learned about being on forums is we never know each others skill levels until we have several personal interactions on the forum, and after that it's still a guess.
I can get the measurements from the aluminum bell in the next couple of days , that bell is on the car and I will have to put it on my lift to measure.
When I installed my TKX it was somewhat difficult to actually get the shifter stub into the OEM shifter opening, as one is, attempting to get the transmission to mesh at the same time, my transmission jack was almost useless.
Modern Driveline says you MAY have SLIGHT issues with the opening due to production variances. Don't know if that is the case for everyone or not.
You will note that there is a stiffener plate on the underside of the opening where the threaded holes for the shifter boot are located.
MY best solution ( so far ) was to graft the opening from my donor car on to what I had to cut off of my existing opening.
I am using OEM full councel with no ill effects.
Boilermaster
 

boilermaster

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Q1svt,
looking at the picture you provided, I had nowhere close to that kind of clearance.
As I remember, the rubber of the boot was touching the right side of the opening. I gained maybe 1/8'' by loosening both the motor mounts and perches and prying the engine over in an effort to gain additional clearance.
Boilermaster
 

Q1SVT

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Q1svt,
looking at the picture you provided, I had nowhere close to that kind of clearance.
As I remember, the rubber of the boot was touching the right side of the opening. I gained maybe 1/8'' by loosening both the motor mounts and perches and prying the engine over in an effort to gain additional clearance.
Boilermaster
thanks... no hurry on the measurement

Might want to check if the motor is sitting flat across the top, like valve covers [can be a little clockwise or counter clockwise in your case].. When engine support brackets, perches are R&R they have enough play to not let the block sit level. May not have been an issue w/toploader shifter... Can loosen all the 8 bolts again, plus motor mounts to block and by then lifting the motor up & down can reset the engine strait up. just a guess
 
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boilermaster

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Q1SVT,
This just in, upper @ 1.520'' and lower @ 0.894'' with casting # C9aa-6394- a (164 tooth aluminum bellhousing.
 
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