Need help with.. everything

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ATP

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Hello everyone, i want to apologize in advance, im new here and if i do anything wrong or if my spelling isn’t that great, english is not my first language! 
 

so to make a long story short, a while ago my dad passed away and left me a 1973 mach 1. 

It was his life work, he has been working on it since before i was born, my childhood is full of memories of me ”helping” him work on it.

He almost got done restoring it. The only thing left is the interior. 
It is now my time to pick up the torch and complete this restoration and its very.. overwhelming.

where do i even start? I work as a car mechanic and hope to figure stuff out as i go, but where do i even start?

i have attached some pictures of the current state of the interior as well of some parts that have been removed.

Are you supposed to put insulation under the floor mat? 
it looks like insulation have been removed on the roof, should i put insulation on the roof?

any help would be greatly appreciated! 
or if anyone have suggestions in what order i should do stuff and whatnot.

any links to information would also be appreciated, my google skills are not the best.

and again, sorry if i post this in the wrong place or anything like that 

best regards, Alex.

EDIT: dont know where i got -73 from, pretty sure its a -71

45B8CA97-BB1C-46A3-B084-70DCD99CFC73.jpeg 2BDC0EB3-A67B-44D1-AC35-0672714280D5.jpeg C1AC755B-2EBA-414B-A419-087200E16DE1.jpeg AED26583-E9CB-4E40-AB9C-524C3AFACE69.jpeg 68D9E346-D1F2-43CC-AFB9-019B0740802F.png D06A14D0-8582-4B2D-B0CC-99F0B60DCE6E.png F2E6BF31-7F5B-42C2-A5B5-E7A3B4B3647B.png

 
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Don C

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Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products:

Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com)

Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing

A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores:

Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com

Welcome to the forum, from Oregon

 
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Ryunker

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[url=https://ibb.co/fF5Ono][img]https://preview.ibb.co/dKMw7o/20180526_110612.jpg[/img][/url]
Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products:

Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com)

Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing

A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores:

Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com

Welcome to the forum, from Oregon
Was unaware the peel and seal stuff, good to know as the others seam a bit pricey.

 

MustangSally44

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We tore the interior out of ours awhile ago to get some welding done. While everything was removed I painted all the metal with 2 coats of enamle useing a brush. Was much nicer crawling around on a shiny painted surface as aposed to the rust and tar.also adds an extra layer of protection if theres wate leaks.A wire cup wheel on the drill did a great job cleaning befor paint

 

ATP

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Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products:

Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com)

Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing

A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores:

Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com

Welcome to the forum, from Oregon
Thanks for the reply! 
 

it looks likes my father bought stuff like you linked, as seen in one of my pictures, i also found a big roll of asphalt membrane, i guess the plan was to use the asphalt membrane aswell? Is that a common thing? 
 

thanks in advance.

 

ATP

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I will be doing the headliner fabric in mine in a few weeks. What I know so far for sure is it goes under the Windshield and rear glass, so the come out.
Wow, i never could have guessed, thank you so much for that information! 
 

haha, it is not like modern cars 

 

ATP

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We tore the interior out of ours awhile ago to get some welding done. While everything was removed I painted all the metal with 2 coats of enamle useing a brush. Was much nicer crawling around on a shiny painted surface as aposed to the rust and tar.also adds an extra layer of protection if theres wate leaks.A wire cup wheel on the drill did a great job cleaning befor paint
Thanks for the info! From what i can see from underneath the car (pristine) i wont be needing to do any work on the actuall floor, purely interior.

Since you tore out the interior recently, do you have any opinions in what order i should do stuff? My plan is as follows:

1. Remove the old tar(?) mats 

2. clean it up and install asphalt membrane across the entite floor

3. Install insulation (fabric) on top of the asphalt mat

4. Put in the floor mat 

5. put insulation on the roof

6. Install the new roof headliner

7. Install the side panels and misc trim that helps keep the floor mat in place (?)

8. Seats, belts, center console and stuff like that

if you or anyone reading this think i missed something or if this sound like a great or a terrible plan, let me know!

Thanks in advance

 
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mjlan

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1972 H Code Mach 1
Welcome!

It is always a daunting task to put something together that you didn't take apart!

I think you have a good process list there, my only suggestion would be to work from the top down. That way nothing will drop or potentially damage the underlayment or carpeting if you are working on the headliner or something messy up high.

So:

1. Remove the old tar(?) mats 

2. clean floor, do anything messy (wire wheeling sanding, etc.)

3. clean roof, prep for insulation

4. put insulation on the roof

5. Install the new roof headliner

6. Install sail panels and misc trim that helps keep the headliner inpplace

7. install asphalt membrane across the entire floor

8. Install insulation (fabric) on top of the asphalt mat

9. Put in the floor mat 

10. Install the side panels and misc trim that helps keep the floor mat in place (?)

11. Seats, belts, center console and stuff like that

Hopefully others have some suggestions or point out better order of things than I have...

 
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RIBS

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Just to add, many reproduction parts are available, such as carpet, door and dash panels, new seat foam and covers….depending on budget, you could refresh a lot of those parts…I am doing a convertible interior and spending in the range of $2500-$3500 to refresh just about everything…

 

Kilgon

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Welcome from Ohio.   Sorry to hear about your lost.  You have come to the right place for help on your project.  Below are a couple of links that might help you out some with reassembling your car and info about your car from the vin.   By the way, the official language of this website is "stang"!  :biggrin:



 Mustang VIN and Data Plate Decoding Archives - Average Joe Restoration

 
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Hello and welcome from SW Ontario, Canada.

I don't have a pic of the roof insulation I used, but I got it from NPD (National Parts depot). but here is a pic or two of the floor. I used an insulation from NPD as well. I don't remember what the name is now. It was far less expensive to Dynamat, but to be honest, I wish I had used it now.

The floor in my 71 Mach 1 was pristine, but I did coat it with rocker guard (NOT asphalt type).

IMG_3235(1).jpg

IMG_3278.1.JPG

IMG_3276.1.JPG

IMG_3277.1.JPG

 

MustangSally44

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some thing we did that helped alot was to make studs out of bolts to align the carpet to the seat bolt holes in the floor, then install the seats on the studs. Unscrew a stud,screw in a seat bolt. everything stays lined up and you can find the hole.

 
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some thing we did that helped a lot was to make studs out of bolts to align the carpet to the seat bolt holes in the floor, then install the seats on the studs. Unscrew a stud, screw in a seat bolt. everything stays lined up and you can find the hole.
Great idea!

Tip; use a solder iron to burn the hole through the carpet for the bolts. These carpets are (usually) single filament, so burning the hole won't cause the thread to pull and wreck the carpet.

 

Fabrice

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where do i even start? I work as a car mechanic and hope to figure stuff out as i go, but where do i even start?
Got my 429 with everything (kinda) in boxes and buckets inside it. Always hard to take some project over.
I took one thing at a time (everything needs be done anyway) and at some point the "todo" started to become more obvious
and you can then organise by work/category/car regions...

Looking forward to read about your progresses!

Welcome from the northern Netherlands

 

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