Need opinions on Redhead Steering

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So I'm not going to gain 20 HP by under driving my PS pump? ;)
You wont get 20 HP, but when I used to do 5.0 Mustangs in the 80's and 90's the underdrive pulley sets were one of the most popular performance accessories around. You could definitely feel a difference when you installed them, but they would underdrive everything, not just the PS pump. I think I was dyno tests back in the day about the pulleys and I don't believe they made a ton of power, maybe 6-8 HP, but it was across the board, meaning they were making 6-8 HP across the entire RPM range, and not just at the top of the RPM range. It certainly made a difference. On manual transmission cars they were fine to use, but automatic transmission cars in traffic tended to overheat, not charge their batteries, and the A/C did not work well while you were stuck in traffic.
 

73inNH

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Thoughts on the cleanest way to drain fluid before disconnecting current box?
 

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The least messy is disconnect the lines at the box one by one, and cap them. Because of the angle of the hoses, you don't need to drain the reservoir. Zip tie them forward and out of the way. If the new box came with plugs in the fittings, transfer them to your old box before removal.
 
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I'm the sort of guy who replaces everything I can whilst I'm at it. In this case I would probably replace the HP line at least unless it is known to be recent.
Just a thought to spend more of your money!
Going back to attaching the hoses. I've not done it this way, but if you're using the short HP hose, you could fit it/both before installing the box. This might be a bit awkward, but if you find a way to hold them up out the way while you bolt the box in, it might save some agro. This of course means it could get a bit messy when you disconnect the HP hose off the pump and reconnect the new hose. Use Flare wrenches if possible.
 
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73inNH

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I'm the sort of guy who replaces everything I can whilst I'm at it. In this case I would probably replace the HP line at least unless it is know to be recent.
Replaced last Fall. :)
I probably should've done the steering box then . . .

 
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Replaced last Fall. :)
I probably should've done the steering box then . . .

Ah, yes, now I remember. At least you have some experience with hoses now.
Good luck with the new box and let us know the result. Is it a fast ratio you ordered?
 

73inNH

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Yup, 3 turns lock to lock. My son comes home from school next week and asked me to wait for him. Expect an update next week! I do have a lift so hopefully it goes smooth. : )

Nothing better than being in the garage with your kids. Love it.

Redhead doesn't want you touching the adjusting nut so they paint it so it won't be disturbed. And there's a tag on it that says "This gear was bench tested and double checked for play. There is no play in this steering gear."

Cracked me up. : )
 
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Yup, 3 turns lock to lock. My son comes home from school next week and asked me to wait for him. Expect an update next week! I do have a lift so hopefully it goes smooth. : )

Nothing better than being in the garage with your kids. Love it.

Redhead doesn't want you touching the adjusting nut so they paint it so it won't be disturbed. And there's a tag on it that says "This gear was bench tested and double checked for play. There is no play in this steering gear."

Cracked me up. : )
Once the preloads are set, (by RedHead in this case) there should never be a need to touch that nut for many years. Play is not just in the sector shaft mesh to worm screw, but also in the ball size used within the worm screw. Ford used to sell replacement ball sets in 6 sizes and to 5 decimals. i.e. very close tolerances.
Put it in and enjoy it.
 

73inNH

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You're spot on. From Redhead's site:

"Probably the most unique and important thing we do is custom fit every single worm and piston assembly with new precision fit steel balls. This is a process not matched by any other company in the industry. This process is very important. The machining tolerances of the original manufacturing leave a small and varying amount of play that can not be corrected in any other way."
 

Animal Lawyer

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I bought from Redhead when I upgraded to close ratio. The first unit they sent was defective. I called, explained what it was doing. They overnighted me a replacement and shipping labels for the bad unit. While I had to pay the labor to swap it twice, redhead was top notch.
 

73inNH

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Trying to remove the old steering box, but stuck removing this spline. Any tips?
 

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giantpune

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Trying to remove the old steering box, but stuck removing this spline. Any tips?
Thats the pitman arm. Its not always easy or possible to separate that from the steering gear. Sometimes they have to be cut off. There are tools like pitman arm pullers and pickle forks you can try if you don't want to buy a new one.

I pulled mine out together as a unit - steering gear with the arm still attached. Turns out my pitman arm was shot anyways. It was flopping around at the joint. I couldn't tell until I had it out of the car. I ordered a new pitman arm. When I sent my core back to redhead, it had the old one still attached.

 
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If you're still stuck, separate the pitman arm at the center link. You can buy a small puller for that or if the pitman arm joint is shot, a pickle fork will work.
The last pitman arm I just did, I had to take the box to my mechanic's shop because my puller was not up to the task, nor do I have a H/D air impact. It also took a hefty whack with f/b hammer.
Good luck moving forward.
 
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Trying to remove the old steering box, but stuck removing this spline. Any tips?
If you are using a puller try simultaneously heating up the arm while keeping the stud as cool as possible. So set your puller with as much tension you feel confortable with and then place a torch on the arm only spreading the flame along the perimeter. The heat is going to expand and hopefully help getting it out. That's why you want to keep the stud cool so it doesn't expand with the arm.
 
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If you are using a puller try simultaneously heating up the arm while keeping the stud as cool as possible. So set your puller with as much tension you feel confortable with and then place a torch on the arm only spreading the flame along the perimeter. The heat is going to expand and hopefully help getting it out. That's why you want to keep the stud cool so it doesn't expand with the arm.
That'll work too. It will need a total rebuild anyway, so he'll not be worried about the seals. He may be returning the box to RedHead as a core, but there was no comment on that.
 
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That'll work too. It will need a total rebuild anyway, so he'll not be worried about the seals. He may be returning the box to RedHead as a core, but there was no comment on that.
My point with keeping the stud cool was not so much to protect the seals but to take advantage of the heat expansion. If he heats the stud equally than the arm there won't be any expansion differential.
 

73inNH

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Finally got it. Holy crap! I loaned a tool from AutoZone and after using it for about a half hour I finally got it. Man, that was tough.

Thanks for the ideas everyone!
 

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My point with keeping the stud cool was not so much to protect the seals but to take advantage of the heat expansion. If he heats the stud equally than the arm there won't be any expansion differential.
Yes Tony, I fully understand your point and you are of course correct. In this particular case, possible damage to seals is unimportant and why I worded it that way.
It's a mute point now anyway, he got it off.
 
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