Need suggestions based on engine build/setup

[73' mach 1]

Hey guys, well I'm finally glad to say the my motor is at the machine shop getting rebuilt. The engine will be a full hydraulic roller 408 with all SCAT forged internals. The cam is TBD but I can expect the motor to make anywhere from 450-500RWHP. The use/expectations for this car is a fun well mannered street car. The car will be used on nice weathered days and weekends when desired. I have zero intentions of taking it to the track...for now. 

This has been a project like most to where I've been collecting parts over the last 3 years. I just got the trunk and drivers side floor replaced so I'm ready to start putting the interior back together this winter while I wait to get everything else. The goal is to have her running this spring. The questions come into the little things I might be missing that should be upgraded or replaced based in the new power and age of the car. If it's something that needs to be replaced does it need to be upgraded or is a factory replacement good enough to where the upgrade money is better spent else where. 

Here is everything I currently have:

Suspension- all new factory replacement A arms and lower control arms. Eaton factory load springs cut 1", Bilstein sport shocks front and rear, TCP 4.5 mid eye leafsprings, front and rear sway bars and Lakewood traction bars. I still need to get steering linkage parts ( I understand moog to be good here). Do I need to get the steering box redone or just replace the hoses and rag joint?

Trans- TKO 600 with hydraulic clutch. Lakewood steel bell housing (I know it's overkill but...). I need recommendations on a clutch/flywheel set. Since my new engine will be internally balanced I'll need a new flywheel. I'm guessing I'd still like to keep it an 11" 164 tooth? I'm looking for a clutch that can hold up to the power but has some slip. This car is a weekend street car that won't see the strip so I don't what the clutch to be on or off type.

Gears-3:89's

Exhaust- FPA headers, 2.5" x-pipe, pypes street pro mufflers.

Engine- 408 SCAT forged, full roller cam, blue thunder intake, 750 quick fuel slayer. Rear main machined for 1 piece seal. Need a recommendation for a balancer (ATI I'm guessing).  

Ignition- I need suggestions here for distributer and if a box is suggested?

Cooling- Factory rad with new tanks, 2 12" spal electric fan with 185 stat. New factory water pump.

Wheels/tires- This is where I need help. I was originally set on 15x8 and 15x10 with some mastercraft 295/50's but I'd like to know how other are keep their power to the ground? I don't plan to drive like a complete ass on the street but if I do get "spirited" with it I'd like to keep it somewhat straight? Should I be going to a 17" wheel and some DR's? I like the look of the Mickey Thompson ET street S/S. Just wondering what others are doing here.

Brakes- I haven't got anything new yet. I plan to get all new brake lines at the very least. The car has factory front disk with drum rear. Can I just replace the existing stuff with factory replacement stuff or do I need significant upgrades? I don't have a ton of money for a full wildwood brake set but could upgrade some stuff. What's suggested?

If you need more information let me know. I'm sure I forgot something. Your input is appreciated. Thanks

 

[Canted 393]

Here is my suggestion for ignition

box- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5520/overview/

dizzy-https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-32720bl

msd wire adapter-https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8869

 

[Mister 4x4]

Ummm... Kevin (turtle5353)?!  Your assistance is needed here, Brutha! 

He's got the bad-ass 408 set-up in his awesome '71.  ::thumb::

 

[tony-muscle]

You may want to check this thread I started about my 408. There you can see what others have done and what I have done. My setup is very similar to yours. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-408-stroker-parts-discussion

-For clutch and flywheel I am using Modern Drivelines 10.5" Organic/Kevlar clutch with flywheel.

-For ignition I am using an OEM distributor with recurved kit and 10L mechanical advance braket hooked up to a MSD 2 coil and Street Fire CD box.

-Using a Champion radiator with a FlowCooler water pump.

-Brakes: Willwood discs on front, and Cadillac ElDorado disc conversion from RightStuff in rear.

-Tires: BFG 295/50R15 on rear and 245/60R15 on front.

How does it drive? Will know very soon!

 

[Bentworker]

I'd budget money for brakes... Really really good brakes.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

On your steering. Yes replace the rag joint. Unlike most think replacement rubber pieces are available about any parts store. I put new on my tilt steering couple years ago.

With the engine out I would go ahead and at least put new seals in the steering box. If it was working fine when you took out I would not do full rebuild. I would also put seals in the PS pump. When you take apart take pics they are quite a few pieces inside.

On any new engine build I would add the rpm limiter to MSD box. Once you float the valves you can't undo the damage.

The rag joint and components in pic came from Advance Auto parts here. The forged connections do not really wear out only the rubber usually gets brake fluid on it and gets soft.

 

[tony-muscle]

On your steering. Yes replace the rag joint. Unlike most think replacement rubber pieces are available about any parts store. I put new on my tilt steering couple years ago.

With the engine out I would go ahead and at least put new seals in the steering box. If it was working fine when you took out I would not do full rebuild. I would also put seals in the PS pump. When you take apart take pics they are quite a few pieces inside.

On any new engine build I would add the rpm limiter to MSD box. Once you float the valves you can't undo the damage.

The rag joint and components in pic came from Advance Auto parts here. The forged connections do not really wear out only the rubber usually gets brake fluid on it and gets soft.

The SpitFire box has a built-in rev limiter. Once you remove the engine there are a lot of "while I am at it" things you can replace. Check all the gaskets at the firewall, rubber pieces, etc. These are cheap and easy to replace once engine is out.

 

[johnwanzel]

Balancer: Romac. Period.

Ford racing billet flywheel 10.5 clutch

McCleod extreme street clutch kit. I am also using a hydraulic clutch setup.

Factory magnum 500 wheels are nice to look at but not practical for what you are trying to achieve. 15” wheels are limited to bf Goodrich tires and that’s pretty much about it.

Try going with a 18” wheel and your tire options are limitless.

 

[73' mach 1]

Balancer: Romac. Period.

Ford racing billet flywheel 10.5 clutch

McCleod extreme street clutch kit. I am also using a hydraulic clutch setup.

Factory magnum 500 wheels are nice to look at but not practical for what you are trying to achieve. 15” wheels are limited to bf Goodrich tires and that’s pretty much about it.

Try going with a 18” wheel and your tire options are limitless.

For the Romac would is be any neutral balanced one for a 351C? P/N's? It's not that I'm lazy to look things up, I just want to make sure I get the right stuff the 1st time based on everyone's real use.  Also, how does the feel of that clutch feel on the street with your setup? Easy in and out, some slip and too grabby on and off like? Thanks

 

[mustang7173]

Hello

For the rear brake upgrade, I recommend the Master Power Rear Drum

https://www.mpbrakes.com/rear-brake-conversion-kit/1973-ford-mustang-legend-series-rear-drum.asp?catid=9017D315D38A4E4CAE68621E7D3759A2

Rear Drum Brake Conversion Kit - Legend Series Deciding to keep drum brakes on the rear of your vehicle is not a bad thing. What is a bad thing is not upgrading them to a system that makes sense. Our rear drum upgrade kit utilizes a large 11 inch drum, all new components and 1 inch wheel cylinders giving disc brake feel without the expense.

The kit includes the following items:

11 inch Finned Brake Drum

Stamped Backing Plate with Black Powdercoat Finish

OEM Quality Brake Hardware

New Brake Shoes

1 inch Bore Wheel Cylinder

Fully Assembled and Ready to Install

I know a lot of forum members have done the rear disc conversion. for the members on a budget, this is cost effect, and a direct bolt on. I have this on my 1973 Hard top and I can tell it is there.

Here is my thread-

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-big-ford-11-inch-brake-kit?highlight=master+power

 

[tony-muscle]

Factory magnum 500 wheels are nice to look at but not practical for what you are trying to achieve. 15” wheels are limited to bf Goodrich tires and that’s pretty much about it.

Try going with a 18” wheel and your tire options are limitless.

Very true. When I first was on this boat I wanted to stick with my 15" Magnums which I have now to maintain the classic look. Then I realized there are very few options for tires. Even 17" opens a world of options. That may be an upgrade for me in the future.

 

[73' mach 1]

Factory magnum 500 wheels are nice to look at but not practical for what you are trying to achieve. 15” wheels are limited to bf Goodrich tires and that’s pretty much about it.

Try going with a 18” wheel and your tire options are limitless.

Very true. When I first was on this boat I wanted to stick with my 15" Magnums which I have now to maintain the classic look. Then I realized there are very few options for tires. Even 17" opens a world of options. That may be an upgrade for me in the future.

Oh I get it trust me. I was really caught up on trying to keep the white raised letters. I have zero desire to paint them on myself onto a bigger tire. I was thinking about the 17" Torque Thrust II's. Not sure they make them in an 18? I plan to do the brakes anyway but if I went that wheel route I'd definitely have to redo calipers. I just kind of dig the taller looking tire with the white raised on our cars. If I go on the bigger wheel size what do you guys suggest for a good street tire based on my power?