Neutral safety switch

[naa10104]

Hello question concerning the installation of a new neutral safety switch on a C6 auto transmission. Does the new switch have to be installed with the transmission in park or neutral ? I installed the new switch with the car in park and adjusted it per instructions with the car in neutral. Everything seems to work except I cannot shift the shifter lower than drive. it won't go into second or first now.

Hello,

After I installed the switch I shifted the trans into N and tried to insert the drill bit into the alignment hole, it would not go in deep enough. I rotated the switch until the drill bit dropped almost a half inch in. I then snugged the switch's two mounting bolts. I know the switch is installed properly as it will only bolt onto the housing one way.

I have two areas I need clarification on :

Should the transmission be in Park or Neutral when you actually install the new switch onto the trans ? I had the car in park.

When I installed the switch I rotated the circular collar in the switch that the shifting shaft goes thru all the way forward,(counter-clockwise) and made sure that the two keys on the inside of the collar fit into the corresponding slots on the shaft. Is it possible that the collar in the switch needs to be turn ed 180 degrees the other way ?

Thanks

Any suggestions thanks

 

[Don C]

You need to start with the transmission in neutral and the NSS in the correct position. Read Jbojo's post in this thread:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-neutral-safety-switch-can-you-adjust

 

[naa10104]

You need to start with the transmission in neutral and the NSS in the correct position. Read Jbojo's post in this thread:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-neutral-safety-switch-can-you-adjust

HI,

Are you saying that I need to install the switch with the trans in Neutral ? I already did the adjustment procedure with the trans in Neutral after I installed the switch ... that worked fine, I just can't shift below Drive. When I installed the switch I had the trans in Park. Could it be that I had the switch itself rotated 180 degrees the wrong way ? Thanks

 

[jbojo]

If you rotate the switch so that the drill bit can be inserted into the hole about a 1/2 inch then it is set to the neutral position and if the tranny is in neutral align the collar guide to the shaft and tighten it down. Then pull the drill bit out and it should be aligned. Sounds like you don't have it aligned properly.

 

[naa10104]

If you rotate the switch so that the drill bit can be inserted into the hole about a 1/2 inch then it is set to the neutral position and if the tranny is in neutral align the collar guide to the shaft and tighten it down. Then pull the drill bit out and it should be aligned. Sounds like you don't have it aligned properly.

Thanks ... think you are right .... let you know what happens when I get back to the car.

 

[naa10104]

Hello,

Went to the car today and re-installed the neutral safety switch per your instructions ... it now works and only allows the car to start in Park or Neutral. However I still have no back up lights. The fuse is good, the neutral safety switch is new, the bulbs are good. I checked for voltage at the BU sockets in reverse with negative results. All the other exterior lights work. In my basic Chilton's manual in the schematic of the wiring it shows a back up light switch or relay could this be the issue and where would I find it ? Open to any suggestions ... thanks

 

[midlife]

BU relay is the NSS/BU switch on the tranny. Disconnect the 4 pin plug that goes to the tranny for the NSS/BU lights. Put the female pins on top, and check the right-hand female socket for power when the key is in ACC. If power, the problem is downstream from there (the switch, power back out to the tail-lights). If no power, check the top left-hand fuse that also powers the radio and a few other things.

 

[naa10104]

BU relay is the NSS/BU switch on the tranny. Disconnect the 4 pin plug that goes to the tranny for the NSS/BU lights. Put the female pins on top, and check the right-hand female socket for power when the key is in ACC. If power, the problem is downstream from there (the switch, power back out to the tail-lights). If no power, check the top left-hand fuse that also powers the radio and a few other things.

thanks for the info. Already checked the fuse and it is okay. I will double check everything after the blizzard, hopefully next week. Will check your suggested tests also. Guess it could be in the wiring between the plugs you speak of and the BU light sockets themselves. Question, can too much dielectric grease in the plugs cause a short or cause the BU lights to not illuminate ? Just reaching at this point ... thanks again !

 

[midlife]

Dielectric grease cannot cause a short. If the pins don't make good contact, then too much grease can keep the pins from making any contact, but that situation is most unlikely.

 

[naa10104]

Dielectric grease cannot cause a short. If the pins don't make good contact, then too much grease can keep the pins from making any contact, but that situation is most unlikely.

thanks very much !

 

[Danno]

Dielectric grease cannot cause a short. If the pins don't make good contact, then too much grease can keep the pins from making any contact, but that situation is most unlikely.

thanks very much !

I had the exact same issues with my NSS and backup lights on my C4. I went to the NSS connection and found that I had power in and out of the NSS for the backup lights, but somewhere on the engine side of the harness ( in the wire bundle), the power was lost.

What I did was to tap into the bu light fuse with a wire, cut the power wire in that bundle on the ENGINE harness side of the connector leaving @ 6" of wire coming out of that connector, and spliced into that 6" section to the wire from the fuse panel. Now I have backup lights. This is sort of neandrathal, but it works for now.

I basically had power into and out of the switch with the shifter in reverse, but it stopped at the engine connector. I just took the harness wire in the bundle out of the picture and came directly from the fuse panel. This will take some schematic reading, but it's not that difficult. I don't remember the wire colors and it's too cold to fool with it now.

I hope I haven't confused the issue too much............Good luck.

 

[naa10104]

BU relay is the NSS/BU switch on the tranny. Disconnect the 4 pin plug that goes to the tranny for the NSS/BU lights. Put the female pins on top, and check the right-hand female socket for power when the key is in ACC. If power, the problem is downstream from there (the switch, power back out to the tail-lights). If no power, check the top left-hand fuse that also powers the radio and a few other things.

Hello, just to clarify. I am checking the four pin plug that goes into the main wiring harness, not the four pin plug that actually goes to the neutral safety switch? I checked the upper right female socket on the plug to the main wiring harness with the key on and I got no power. The fuse for The backup lights is good where would you suggest I look next? Thanks

 

[midlife]

You measured correctly. So...there's a problem between the fuse box and that plug. Do you use the original radio power plug? That line is also on that fuse. Do you have 12V on both sides of the fuse when the key is in the ACC position?

The headlight harness connects to the back of the fuse box, and there's a pin-to-socket connection for a number of lines, including the BU power line. That pin could be bent or loose. The BU wire could be broken from there to the plug where you measured. Lots of possibilities...

 

[naa10104]

You measured correctly. So...there's a problem between the fuse box and that plug. Do you use the original radio power plug? That line is also on that fuse. Do you have 12V on both sides of the fuse when the key is in the ACC position?

The headlight harness connects to the back of the fuse box, and there's a pin-to-socket connection for a number of lines, including the BU power line. That pin could be bent or loose. The BU wire could be broken from there to the plug where you measured. Lots of possibilities...

I have an aftermarket digital radio that I recently installed. It needs constant power and switched power. My recollection is that I ran a power line directly to the cigarette lighter fuse so it would always have power to keep the memory in the radio. I will check to see if I have power on both sides of the fuse and email you shortly thanks

You measured correctly. So...there's a problem between the fuse box and that plug. Do you use the original radio power plug? That line is also on that fuse. Do you have 12V on both sides of the fuse when the key is in the ACC position?

The headlight harness connects to the back of the fuse box, and there's a pin-to-socket connection for a number of lines, including the BU power line. That pin could be bent or loose. The BU wire could be broken from there to the plug where you measured. Lots of possibilities...

I have an aftermarket digital radio that I recently installed. It needs constant power and switched power. My recollection is that I ran a power line directly to the cigarette lighter fuse so it would always have power to keep the memory in the radio. I will check to see if I have power on both sides of the fuse and email you shortly thanks

With the key in the accessory position I checked for power at both sides of the back up light fuse. I do have power when I touch the probe to each side of the fuse holder not the fuse itself.

I also believe I put one wire from the new radio to the cigarette lighter fuse to keep constant power and the other wire was the original wired to power the radio.

You measured correctly. So...there's a problem between the fuse box and that plug. Do you use the original radio power plug? That line is also on that fuse. Do you have 12V on both sides of the fuse when the key is in the ACC position?

The headlight harness connects to the back of the fuse box, and there's a pin-to-socket connection for a number of lines, including the BU power line. That pin could be bent or loose. The BU wire could be broken from there to the plug where you measured. Lots of possibilities...

I have an aftermarket digital radio that I recently installed. It needs constant power and switched power. My recollection is that I ran a power line directly to the cigarette lighter fuse so it would always have power to keep the memory in the radio. I will check to see if I have power on both sides of the fuse and email you shortly thanks

You measured correctly. So...there's a problem between the fuse box and that plug. Do you use the original radio power plug? That line is also on that fuse. Do you have 12V on both sides of the fuse when the key is in the ACC position?

The headlight harness connects to the back of the fuse box, and there's a pin-to-socket connection for a number of lines, including the BU power line. That pin could be bent or loose. The BU wire could be broken from there to the plug where you measured. Lots of possibilities...

I have an aftermarket digital radio that I recently installed. It needs constant power and switched power. My recollection is that I ran a power line directly to the cigarette lighter fuse so it would always have power to keep the memory in the radio. I will check to see if I have power on both sides of the fuse and email you shortly thanks

With the key in the accessory position I checked for power at both sides of the back up light fuse. I do have power when I touch the probe to each side of the fuse holder not the fuse itself.

I also believe I put one wire from the new radio to the cigarette lighter fuse to keep constant power and the other wire was the original wired to power the radio.

Additionally the new radio that I installed works fine and all other options on that back up fuse also work fine turn signals radio etc.

 

[jbojo]

Are you using the power connector (2pin) for the old radio to supply switched power to the new radio? There should be 2 white/purple wires on one pin that supply's the power. You could check there to see if you have the 12v you need there. From there it goes to 1 more connector before going to the one in the engine compartment. The other connector is a big one under the instrument panel on the right hand side of the fuse box. You should see that white purple wire at a corner pin. You could check to see if you have power there too. From there it goes to the connector for the NSS switch.

Since you put in a new radio I am guessing that the problem is in that area of that wiring.

 

[naa10104]

Are you using the power connector (2pin) for the old radio to supply switched power to the new radio? There should be 2 white/purple wires on one pin that supply's the power. You could check there to see if you have the 12v you need there. From there it goes to 1 more connector before going to the one in the engine compartment. The other connector is a big one under the instrument panel on the right hand side of the fuse box. You should see that white purple wire at a corner pin. You could check to see if you have power there too. From there it goes to the connector for the NSS switch.

Since you put in a new radio I am guessing that the problem is in that area of that wiring.

Ok, Thanks I will check it out next time I am at the car.

 

[c9zx]

My NSS was easy to adjust for starting only in N or P. But BU lights didn't work. I had to "finesse" the adjustment a very small amount to make everything work. Just one experience so I don't know if it means anything. Chuck

 

[jbojo]

My NSS was easy to adjust for starting only in N or P. But BU lights didn't work. I had to "finesse" the adjustment a very small amount to make everything work. Just one experience so I don't know if it means anything. Chuck

He mentioned that pwr was missing before the switch so that shouldn't be the issue.

naa10104

At the NSS switch connector doing a continuity check between the white purple and black pink wires while the gear selector is in reverse would rule that out as an issue though. Just do this to the line going to the switch with the battery disconnected to be on the safe side.

 

[c9zx]

I guess I missed that part, sorry. Chuck