NEW SHOCKS AND SPRINGS

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tricksixtyfive

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burbank ca
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1973 Mustang Convertible
351c fmx trans, 2013 kona blue pearl
Anyone have any tips on replacing my shocks and springs on my front end. My right front tire has a lot of play, and squeaks a lot. It the tire that gets the most wear on these horrible l.a. streets. I need tips and do and do nots on replacing my shocks and springs. Also any ideas of upgrading them as well.

Thanks in advance.

Always appreciate pics..

 
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1973 Q code Mach 1
I just put TCP lowering springs on my car less than 2 weeks ago. Not a bad job, easier than I expected

I used a homemade spring compressor of this type http://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

While getting the spring out required loosening the upper control arms, I did not remove any brake, steering or other suspension components.

You should probably at least consider replacing your spring perches, and definitely replace the isolator/spacers.

There are threads on here describing the process in detail, but essentially, with the car up securely on jack stands and the wheels removed, you pull the shock, bolt in the compessor, compress the spring, unbolt the coil spring perches, loosen the control arm until the nuts are a thread or two away from being ready to fall off, remove the sheet metal shield from over the spring assembly, and carefully let the spring loose, making sure it clears the control arm. While you might need to give it a little tug, it shouldn't take much force to remove.

Reassembly is fairly easy. Flat part of the spring goes up against the isolator/spacer, the coil spring perches have a little tab that sticks up, this goes to the inside and the free end of the coil spring sits against it. With lowering springs I was able to put them in by hand and twist them into the right position. Put everything back together (With your new shocks) and slowly lower it to the ground and put weight on it. I would roll it around and drive it easily and come back and reinspect.

took me less than 4 hours by myself and in 100 degree heat. I did it in two evenings after work 2 /2 hours for the passenger side, 1 1/2 for the driver side- Including all clean up. If you have air tools use them. If not there is nothing that makes them necessary.

A breaker bar and a 3/4 short socket will be helpful on the control arms. Shock bolts are 1/2, spring perch and shock tower caps are 9/16ths

The TCP lowering springs were 3" shorter and .77 in diameter as opposed to the old springs free height of 16" long and .67 diameter.

I think it is unnecessary to use a bearing in the building of the tool. It was never hard to turn, I think the tool could be built a bit simpler, but overall it is very easy to use a tool of this type. An outside spring compressor would not be so easy to work with.

You will need to have your alignment checked afterwards.

 
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tricksixtyfive

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burbank ca
My Car
1973 Mustang Convertible
351c fmx trans, 2013 kona blue pearl
Thanks thats great it really helped, I'm actually gunna raise my front end up 2 inches to make the car level. i like a jump stance.

 
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1973 Coupe -Under rebuild/restore
+ one with Jeff73Mach1. I would recommend to Look into the rollerized spring perches also!

Mustang7173

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