No crank/no start

woodsnake

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
308
Reaction score
2
Location
Colorful Colorado!
My Car
1967,68, and 69 Cougar,
and of course the 71 I am trying to sell!

http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/woodsnake4462838/
All my projects 525.jpg

I made it through about ten pages searching, and didn't find what I'm looking for..

So here is where I'm at. I bought my car with out an engine or trans, back in 2011. I had enough small block stuff laying around I thought it might do a "Christine" and heal itself....I was wrong. So I pulled an engine out of an 84 F-150, and found a C4 with the correct shifter linkage. Put a bunch of new parts in the 5.0, new oil pump timing gear set, etc. No "performance" parts, no new cam. I installed a duraspark ignition set up, with a new 600 Holley on an Edelbrock intake. I had a set of headers laying around, and so I threw them on to finish it up. I started the car for about a minute, just to make sure it would run.

Now, all these years later, I am back on it. Since the work was originally done, I also replaced the missing ignition lock and tumbler set.

When I try to start the car with the key, I get nothing. The engine will "try" and start by jumping the solenoid and dumping some gas in the carb, but the battery cables get hot fairly quick.

Is there a switch, at the bottom of the steering column that could be a player? I have NOT tried to start it in neutral yet. I only had an hour or two of daylight yesterday when all this happened.

Thoughts?

 
Joined
Jan 7, 2015
Messages
8,032
Reaction score
481
Location
Western North Carolina
My Car
Multiple Mustangs!
Yes there is a switch on top of the steering column hidden on top. It has a rod that goes to the actual key switch that makes the circuit. It might need to be adjusted closer to the steering wheel. There are two 7/16" bolts on the left side. Easier to get to if you drop the column down a little to get some room. I just had the same issue.

BTW you need to get the shock tower braces back on they are a big structural item in the front.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Omie01

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
907
Reaction score
27
Location
Minnesota, USA
My Car
1972 H code fastback Boss 351 clone
If you find it is not the ignition switch double check your neutral safety switch for adjustment as well. I had a 73 that wouldn't crank and I had to adjust  the neutral safety switch. Usually on the trans where the shifter linkage goes, or on FMX cars in the shifter housing itself. Good luck!!

 
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
3,373
Reaction score
374
Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
If you find it is not the ignition switch double check your neutral safety switch for adjustment as well. I had a 73 that wouldn't crank and I had to adjust  the neutral safety switch. Usually on the trans where the shifter linkage goes, or on FMX cars in the shifter housing itself. Good luck!!
Or the NSS is not plugged at all. Try a jumper at the starter solenoid and then work your way back until you find the culprit.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

woodsnake

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
308
Reaction score
2
Location
Colorful Colorado!
My Car
1967,68, and 69 Cougar,
and of course the 71 I am trying to sell!

http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/woodsnake4462838/
Brief update- Put the front end up on jack stands, and got under the car. I adjusted the NS switch, so that in park, the drill bit fits through the hole.

Before I made this adjustment, there was still no attempt for the starter to engage, when I was turning the key.

On a stock 71 Mustang, is there a rod, (other than the ignition rack) that is supposed to be a player in this set up??

I noticed a protrusion, or mounting location on the steering column tube, that looks like it should do something, and I just am not that familiar with FOMOCO products after the 71 model year to identify it.

 

kcmash

VIP Members
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
1,428
Reaction score
89
Location
Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Brief update- Put the front end up on jack stands, and got under the car. I adjusted the NS switch, so that in park, the drill bit fits through the hole.

Before I made this adjustment, there was still no attempt for the starter to engage, when I was turning the key.

On a stock 71 Mustang, is there a rod, (other than the ignition rack) that is supposed to be a player in this set up??

I noticed a protrusion, or mounting location on the steering column tube, that looks like it should do something, and I just am not that familiar with FOMOCO products after the 71 model year to identify it.
Steering column ignition switch.  Shown with the column dropped.  I replaced mine because it was my electrical "gremlin" that was drawing power even when my key was off. View attachment 39269 View attachment 39269

 

woodsnake

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
308
Reaction score
2
Location
Colorful Colorado!
My Car
1967,68, and 69 Cougar,
and of course the 71 I am trying to sell!

http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/woodsnake4462838/
Thanks for posting that picture!

I did find the majority of my problem..A couple of things..Corroded fuse in the fuse panel, and I found that the 4 pin connector block that the neutral safety switch goes into has been semi stripped, causing intermittent contact..I have to now repair those almost but not quite broken wires. However, I was able to make the engine turn over now by turning the key!! Pretty big day here in Colorado!

 

woodsnake

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
308
Reaction score
2
Location
Colorful Colorado!
My Car
1967,68, and 69 Cougar,
and of course the 71 I am trying to sell!

http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/woodsnake4462838/
Here is the plug I was referring to..



I would like to replace the main harness, from the fuse panel forward into the engine bay..The battery fuse had popped, and that is the single biggest reason I had the no crank.

Unless I now have the 4 pin from the trans in the wrong plug in??

And, what are the 'bullet' ends for here? and the other 4 pin female plug?

 
Last edited by a moderator:

midlife

Shorts checker
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Messages
4,001
Reaction score
398
Location
Tucson, AZ
My Car
No Mustangs at the moment.
Here is the plug I was referring to..



I would like to replace the main harness, from the fuse panel forward into the engine bay..The battery fuse had popped, and that is the single biggest reason I had the no crank.

Unless I now have the 4 pin from the trans in the wrong plug in??

And, what are the 'bullet' ends for here? and the other 4 pin female plug?
The blue plug with two wires is for your seat belts.  You see the black hooded plug below "powered"?  That's the actual neutral safety switch/backup light plug.  Without the NSS pins (red/blue) jumpered on the missing side or the plug connected to the transmission NSS/BU switch, you won't be able to crank the starter.

The green plug is for AC or carb emissions contro, I believe; the white plug is for the PRNDL lamp.

 

woodsnake

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
308
Reaction score
2
Location
Colorful Colorado!
My Car
1967,68, and 69 Cougar,
and of course the 71 I am trying to sell!

http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/woodsnake4462838/
Midlife= Thanks for your response! It would appear then, that I in fact do not have the NSS from the trans, in the correct female plug.

I have repaired the four pin connector that the NSS is in, but if that isn't the correct spot, what should go there? Or what other lead am I missing for that connector? The alternator harness is also missing from this car.....I don't think I will buy another mustang in this condition...I just am not as familiar with them as a Cougar, of an earlier vintage.

Or a postal LLV. I am learning those pretty well now...

 
Top