No Start Issue 71 302

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Car worked fine the other day.  Had a low battery so we charged it up overnight.  Car started fine.  We worked on the brakes for 2 days, then tried to start it and the battery was dead.  Checked voltage on the battery and it was at 9 Volts.  So I replaced the battery with a new one.

Went to start it again, then Nothing.  I heard a low volume click from the solenoid/regulator area, then all power was lost.  Turn the key off and wait a few seconds and power is restored.  Try to start again, same thing, nothing, 1 click all dead.

So I replaced the negative battery cable because it was total trash and needed it anyway.  Once that was done, same thing, 1 click no start no power.

Then I replaced the voltage regulator, same thing.  no start 1 click, no power.

So what is next?  Solenoid?   

Would it possibly do this if the starter was jammed?  I was thinking of tapping it with a hammer and see if that does anything.

 

Don C

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Has your wiring been messed with? It sounds to me like someone may have replaced the fusible link with a circuit breaker. If so, either it is bad, or too low of a value, or you have a short someplace.

 
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all the wiring seems to be original and relatively unmolested. There has literally been nothing done that should cause a wiring issue. it ran fine, even while we were working on the brakes. Now that its all fixed, were having hell. I suppose I will go make sure that nothing got pulled loose around the brake booster area.

 

Kilgon

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Since you replaced the battery with the same results I would double check that battery by charging it and getting a load test on it. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. Once you can confirm that the battery is good than I would bypass everything by using a remote starter switch to see if the starter works. If it does that way but not when you try the key then it would confirm what Don C said above about a fusible link or short.

 

Don C

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Good idea about the load test. If you don't have a battery load tester turn the headlights, heater fan, and hazard flashers on, see if you loose power then. Pull the wire off the "S" terminal on the solenoid and turn the ignition switch to start, see if that makes you loose power.

What condition is your positive battery cable in? It may have a problem with the connections at either end of it.

Did you replace the complete negative cable? From the battery to the bottom screw on the voltage regulator to the engine block?

 
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Yes changed both battery cables complete.

Battery tested good.

I tried jumping the solenoid and still no start.

I'm starting to think he knocked something loose under the dash when he was tightening up the brake booster or brake switch.

 
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Hemikiller

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Yes changed both battery cables complete.

Battery tested good.

I tried jumping the solenoid and still no start.

I'm starting to think he knocked something loose under the dash when he was tightening up the brake booster or brake switch.
The "one click and the car is dead" sequence you describe is normally a battery cable connection issue. Did you clean the terminals that are on the BATT (+) side of the starter solenoid? Did you clean the block ground location and it's attaching bolt?

Since you say you replaced both cables, does the battery negative cable have a connection to the fender apron for a ground? If not, pretty good chance that is your problem. Ford's negative cable was BATT (-) -> fender apron -> engine block, with a strap midway that bolted under the voltage regulator - see attached pic. Many of the aftermarket cables don't have the extra ground connection or people don't realize they need to use it and without it, there is no major battery to chassis ground path.  If yours is missing, I would make a temporary battery to apron ground to see if that is your problem

Factory repop cables



Aftermarket negative cable with ground circuit

11142482_atc_ac145hs_alt3_pri_larg.jpg


 
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The ground cable is a reproduction of the original so it has the tab that connects at the voltage regulator and a second tab to the block. All connections were cleaned thoroughly.

In the pic of the repop cables shown above, where does the other black cable go. I seem to remember 2 black cables in the kit. Is it a separate ground to the starter? If so where does the other end go.

 
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Don C

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I believe it is the solenoid to starter cable.

The starter solenoid internal winding receives it's ground from the solenoid mounting bracket and fender apron. Make sure the solenoid bracket is making good contact (ground) with the fender apron.

 
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Ok so it's the power wire to the starter. I wonder why they made it black instead of red.

 

Don C

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I believe it is because it is not hot all the time, only when energized by the solenoid.

 
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Well its all fixed now. It was just a loose connection. Running fantastic now.

 
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