Not really a hit on NPD

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It's not difficult. You can go through the little grommet for the license plate bulb. That gets you right into the trunk area. You can barely see the camera when mounted up under the little lip above the plate. Standing up behind the car you don't see it at all. You have to crouch down for it to become visible at all.
Ha! that's exactly what I came up with although I've not actually got the far yet, but on the to-do list. I was thinking of making a small bracket and attaching that to the license plate lamp on the bumper. We'll see when I get to it. One minor issue is the old cigarette lighter is not on a keyed circuit. I want to either change that or add a hidden connection in the dash somewhere. Then hide the mile of wires!!
 

Mister 4x4

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Mine's also low, and I got my windshield from and installed by Safelite. It's hard to tell behind my back-up camera screen, that's the edge of the factory-style mirror peeking out from behind the clamp-on screen. But yeah, I was expecting it to be a bit higher as well.

interior2.jpg

It looks like it's about the same spot as from the factory to me. Here's one of my 'Day One' pics - the factory mounted mirror is mounted pretty much in the middle of the windshield:

Interior_starting_point1.JPG

My camera is a license plate frame mounted unit - with the black Mach 1 plate frame, can't even really tell it's there. It's not tough to see in this pic (the extra bump in the top of the frame). I'm going to wind up changing out my whole back-up camera system, though: I found a new factory-style mirror with the full screen built-in (I hate the little 'window' screens - too small), and I'm planning on getting a trunk popper and put the camera in the key hole. The lower location on the LP frame is too low and gets blinded if there's a car with its lights on back there.

IMG_20210327_141016311_HDR.jpg


Hope that helps!
 
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Mine's also low, and I got my windshield from and installed by Safelite. It's hard to tell behind my back-up camera screen, that's the edge of the factory-style mirror peeking out from behind the clamp-on screen. But yeah, I was expecting it to be a bit higher as well.

View attachment 63441

It looks like it's about the same spot as from the factory to me. Here's one of my 'Day One' pics - the factory mounted mirror is mounted pretty much in the middle of the windshield:

View attachment 63443

My camera is a license plate frame mounted unit - with the black Mach 1 plate frame, can't even really tell it's there. It's not tough to see in this pic (the extra bump in the top of the frame). I'm going to wind up changing out my whole back-up camera system, though: I found a new factory-style mirror with the full screen built-in (I hate the little 'window' screens - too small), and I'm planning on getting a trunk popper and put the camera in the key hole. The lower location on the LP frame is too low and gets blinded if there's a car with its lights on back there.

View attachment 63442


Hope that helps!
Yeah, I'm pretty sure the "correct" position for a fastback Mustang mirror is where we have it, 7" down or there abouts. 6" would be a better (she said).
As for adding the camera, that's today's project for me to at least start. I had thought about mounting the camera at the top of the rear window, but I don't want to cut into anything to mount it. Under my spoiler would ruin the spoiler. Under the bumper is about the only place other than as you say, the trunk keyhole. I'll post more on this separately in a new thread.
 
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure the "correct" position for a fastback Mustang mirror is where we have it, 7" down or there abouts. 6" would be a better (she said).
As for adding the camera, that's today's project for me to at least start. I had thought about mounting the camera at the top of the rear window, but I don't want to cut into anything to mount it. Under my spoiler would ruin the spoiler. Under the bumper is about the only place other than as you say, the trunk keyhole. I'll post more on this separately in a new thread.
I used the Autovox IP68 mirror with backup camera. It is now discontinued but it works great.
 
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I used the Autovox IP68 mirror with backup camera. It is now discontinued but it works great.
The one I got is the AWESAFE 10 inch mirror/dash cam/back up cam and is touch screen 1080p. My main concern is weight hanging on the factory mirror, will it stay put. A 'test' with it looked pretty good. I'll post more separately.
 

Big Red Mach 1

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The one I got is the AWESAFE 10 inch mirror/dash cam/back up cam and is touch screen 1080p. My main concern is weight hanging on the factory mirror, will it stay put. A 'test' with it looked pretty good. I'll post more separately.

Mine has been hanging off the mirror for two years. Hasn't moved. Mine is centered at 7.5" down from the bottom of the chrome molding.
20220513_084759.jpg
 

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Yeah, I'm pretty sure the "correct" position for a fastback Mustang mirror is where we have it, 7" down or there abouts. 6" would be a better (she said).
As for adding the camera, that's today's project for me to at least start. I had thought about mounting the camera at the top of the rear window, but I don't want to cut into anything to mount it. Under my spoiler would ruin the spoiler. Under the bumper is about the only place other than as you say, the trunk keyhole. I'll post more on this separately in a new thread.
The only issue I found putting the camera itself where I did was that the LP light would blind the camera when the lights are on, so I found some motorcycle LP bolts w/LEDs. They're wired in-place of the factory LP light and light up the LP quite nicely. However, the wires run through the LP mounting holes, so I basically have to cut and rewire them whenever I need to change the LP (which has been twice now - the DMV actually gave me two consecutive plates, rather than two matching plates the first time out - LOL!).

Still leaning toward a trunk popper and new camera system, though.

Something like this but with a different camera
 
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The only issue I found putting the camera itself where I did was that the LP light would blind the camera when the lights are on, so I found some motorcycle LP bolts w/LEDs. They're wired in-place of the factory LP light and light up the LP quite nicely. However, the wires run through the LP mounting holes, so I basically have to cut and rewire them whenever I need to change the LP (which has been twice now - the DMV actually gave me two consecutive plates, rather than two matching plates the first time out - LOL!).

Still leaning toward a trunk popper and new camera system, though.

Something like this but with a different camera
Also good info Eric, thanks.
Boy have we strayed off the original topic................ again! Sorry Vintageman.
 

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Geoff, it's all great information. I learned that the mirror is lower than I thought it should be and remembering it should be, that's all great info. And I am learning more about members experience with back up cameras. I have a back up camera that I am trying to get working. it is a Boss version that came with my stereo. I have installed a 10 inch apple CarPlay touchscreen radio that is working great but I don't get signal to my camera. I contacted Boss and they said the installation diagram is wrong and would send me the correct diagram. More to follow in that, I am currently trying to get this Summit Dual Exhaust system installed (from the mufflers to the tail pipe was too short among other things not bent correctly).

Thanks everyone for your input on this topic, please continue with on topic or related on topic information as it may help someone else. BTW, I was able to readjust my mirror and can see out of the back window. As Geoff suggested, I twisted the "upright" around on the back of the mirror and all is good, apparently it came to me in the lower setting for mirror placement.

Tom
 
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@BigRedMach 1 (Chris)
Question, what did you do to power your camera? Mine came with a cigarette/power plug adaptor, but I don't want to leave mine powered on if I should forget to unplug it. Just wondering what you chose to do.
 

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I added some extra circuits to mine so I wouldn't wind up cutting into the original harness. I didn't want to take any chances over-stressing the old wiring with lots of new electrical accessories: power windows (all 4 - quarter windows, too), power locks (and a trunk popper), electric fuel pump, back-up camera, modern stereo equipment, alarm system, fuel injection, and a set of driving lights. Hey - it's a restomod, after all.

A straight tap from the battery, 30AMP circuit breaker, into a relay where the hot side goes to a 6-circuit fuse block (constant power), and the relay side to another 6-circuit fuse block, with the relay trip coming from a keyed power source. It's all protected by a Plano bait box.

fusebox1.jpg

fusebox3.jpg

It's not the prettiest, but it works like a champ. At the time, Painless Wiring wanted over $300 for a 6-circuit kit... I'm into this a whole $70 with 12 circuits.

IMG_0705.jpg

I still haven't wrapped it in carbon fiber vinyl yet, and I think I might relocate it to the apron under the starter solenoid, trading places with the voltage regulator so it isn't quite as noticeable.
 

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Last edited:
Joined
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@BigRedMach 1 (Chris)
Question, what did you do to power your camera? Mine came with a cigarette/power plug adaptor, but I don't want to leave mine powered on if I should forget to unplug it. Just wondering what you chose to do
I used one of these. Because we don't have bladed fuses, I used a connector for glass fuses. I'll see if I can get a under the dash photo. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXJD8W1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Interesting Chris, thanks. I'll check that out. Electronic stuff is my main weakness, but I did manage to figure out the LED headlight relay stuff, so who knows, this might be doable.
 
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I added some extra circuits to mine so I wouldn't wind up cutting into the original harness. I didn't want to take any chances over-stressing the old wiring with lots of new electrical accessories: power windows (all 4 - quarter windows, too), power locks (and a trunk popper), electric fuel pump, back-up camera, modern stereo equipment, alarm system, fuel injection, and a set of driving lights. Hey - it's a restomod, after all.

A straight tap from the battery, 30AMP circuit breaker, into a relay where the hot side goes to a 6-circuit fuse block (constant power), and the relay side to another 6-circuit fuse block, with the relay trip coming from a keyed power source. It's all protected by a Plano bait box.

View attachment 63536

View attachment 63537

It's not the prettiest, but it works like a champ. At the time, Painless Wiring wanted over $300 for a 6-circuit kit... I'm into this a whole $70 with 12 circuits.

View attachment 63538

I still haven't wrapped it in carbon fiber vinyl yet, and I think I might relocate it to the apron under the starter solenoid, trading places with the voltage regulator so it isn't quite as noticeable.
Very impressive Eric. Very impressive, but yes, it could be hidden a bit better. WAAAAY above my pay grade to do that stuff though.
 

Big Red Mach 1

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@BigRedMach 1 (Chris)
Question, what did you do to power your camera? Mine came with a cigarette/power plug adaptor, but I don't want to leave mine powered on if I should forget to unplug it. Just wondering what you chose to do

Interesting Chris, thanks. I'll check that out. Electronic stuff is my main weakness, but I did manage to figure out the LED headlight relay stuff, so who knows, this might be doable.
Correction. I didn't use a connector for a glass fuse. I put a ring on the hot and used the stud that's on the fuse block. It's a switched hot. I used that same stud and same ground for my camera and also my bluetooth converted 8 track. Never an issue. 20220515_161729.jpg
 
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Correction. I didn't use a connector for a glass fuse. I put a ring on the hot and used the stud that's on the fuse block. It's a switched hot. I used that same stud and same ground for my camera and also my bluetooth converted 8 track. Never an issue. View attachment 63539
Thanks Chris, I'll take a look at mine, but I know it has no accessory hot connection.
I'd really like to have this mirror mod as clean and removable as possible.
I have other "issues" to deal with at the moment, so it still may be some time before I get to this task. It's low on the to-do list.
 
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