Oil change or not

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mpbsr

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The 302 engine had a total rebuild about 3.5 years ago and I've been using Mobil 1 full syn.

I usually change the oil each spring at about 1000 miles per year.

Not that I want to be cheap, but does it really need an oil change or am I good

at least for another year 1000 miles?

Thanks

 
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Canted 393

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Whats the color, or whats the odor like, do you have a lot of idle time on the motor? 

Is it stored inside a climate controlled garage? If it looks good and doesn't have a gassy smell to the oil run it. But when in doubt drop it, they make more.

 

kcmash

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The unseen problem with the oil is the amount of condensation and opportunity for the oil to break down as it sits.  So I usually say you should change if you have had a lot of start up and idle time over the year even though the mileage is not high,

I did learn in the engineering world that the oil formulations have changed over the years, so we are kinda stuck with more expensive oils for our older flat tappet engines.  Make sure you are using a good quality racing or high sulfur content oil to protect you cam from breakdown.

Maybe you already knew that though.

kcmash

 

midlife

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Sulfur? I think you mean ZDDP or phosphorus in the oil is needed for our flat tappet cams.

 

mpbsr

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Christine is garage kept but not climate controlled.

I usually take her out at minimum for a 30 minute ride, at least once a month, even during the winter.

Pulled the dip stick and the oil still had that yellowish/gold color on the stick with no gas smell, but to play it safe prob better to just change it.

Thanks

 

73pony

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I would change it. As mentioned above condensation will form and breakdown the oil. Better safe than sorry.

 
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The unseen problem with the oil is the amount of condensation and opportunity for the oil to break down as it sits.  So I usually say you should change if you have had a lot of start up and idle time over the year even though the mileage is not high,

I did learn in the engineering world that the oil formulations have changed over the years, so we are kinda stuck with more expensive oils for our older flat tappet engines.  Make sure you are using a good quality racing or high sulfur content oil to protect you cam from breakdown.

Maybe you already knew that though.

kcmash
IIRC, Sulfur is added to gear oil to aid their ability to prevent wear in high psi loads faced by gears.  It is also a problem in engine oil as it promotes formation of acid when exposed to combustion byproducts.

 
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Question; why use synthetic oil in these engine at all? When I had my engine rebuilt I was expressly told NOT to use synthetic oil, ever. Also NOT to use synthetic gear oil either.  I'm no mechanic or tech guy, but the reason given was synthetic is meant to be used in engines with tighter tolerances like modern engines. It is also an expensive product. I know many do run synthetics and there will always be pros and cons......... and heated discussions!! 

My choice has always been Castrol 10W30 conventional oil with ZDDP added and even that is not really necessary once the motor is broken in correctly, again according to the engine builder. And yes, I change it every spring, no matter what the mileage, for about 20 bucks plus a Fram filter.

 

Canted 393

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Stanglover please use a different brand of oil filter, fram is at rockbottom for quality.

Fram_PH8A_cortado.jpg

 

NOT A T5

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Geoff, I've heard from my engine builder FRAM oil filters to be the worst!

 
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Geoff, I've heard from my engine builder FRAM oil filters to be the worst!
 I appreciate the comments guys. I have never heard that Fram are bad oil filters. I worked for Canadian Fram Air Filter and if the testing we did on those is any indication, all I can say is Fram oil filter quality has fallen dramatically. Perhaps a case of new ownership dropping quality to boost profits, who knows.

 I'll do some research, due for an oil change soon anyway.

Geoff.

 

red351

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I would never break in an engine with synthetic for the rings to seat proper, and I never would break in a flat tappet lifter cam without zinc additive plus moly coating with today's off the shelf oil. I would change the oil after the first few hours to syn., and every few years no mater the miles under 5K

 

Bill73Ragtop

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I had my 351C H-code completely rebuilt in 2003. Engine include roller rockers and lifters and it was completely balanced. The builder (a local well known race engine shop) recommended running conventional oil (VR-1) for the first 2,000 miles and then switching to full synthetic. I use Motorcraft filters since they kinda match the car.

History has been to change every couple years (approx 1,200 miles - 2,000 miles) and monitor the level and color. Annual mileage has only been couple hundred miles the last 6-7 years.

 

delawarebill

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for me as i've done for many years with other classic or st rods i've owned.. at the end of cruise season i'll wait for the last show and change oil/filter and drive to that show then it gets parked for the winter. i don't let used oil sit for that long, it's just me i guess. also stuff is added to fuel. i also use engine storage spray and idle engine and spray the heck into the carb hoping to stall it. if now i'll pull coil wire to kill engine. this stuff i used in storing my boat engines every fall and never had an issue.. now spring time start up u need to open garage door for it'll smoke u out.. and i also add ZDDP to oil and break in lube for kicks.

 
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This subject comes up often it seems. I have never been one to change oil a lot, lol. My 73 Mach 1 has sat in a barn, no climate control, since 1982. I pulled a sample of the oil out and sent off to be analyzed. There was no moisture in it the only thing the thought was out of line was that it had lead in it. That was because back then all the gas had lead additive. 

Knock on wood. I have never had an engine failure in over one million miles of driving and some not so easy. The only bad thing I had happen was when I did use Mobile 1 in one engine after breaking in with regular oil. The push rods wore the balls off the ends in like 5,000 miles and started to get valve rattle. This was in the 80's and used TRW components not made in China then. So I pulled the engine put new cam, lifters, push rods and rockers in and went back to my regular Havoline oil. That engine went 467,000 miles a 240 Ford six that I built when working in the race car shop.

The old engines were not made for synthetic oils. Clearances and seals not set for the thin oils.

In my current vehicle a F-150 5.4 2002 that has 284,000 miles on it. I use the Ford 5w20 oil and add a quart when it gets a quart low and when it gets a quart low again I change it. I think Havoline makes the Ford oil also. Since I retired I do not drive as much but did go on a  500 mile trip the other day to pick up an engine and runs fine pulling a trailer. I have never taken the radiator cap off and have never changed a hose on the truck except for an emission hose that split. I do not change the transmission fluid either. Unless you overheat the transmission it should last a very long time. 

I think most of the info out there to change your oil all the time is just to drive the business and sell product.

I have told this story also before. An instructor at the local tech school bought a new Ford small pick up and never changed the oil in over 160,000 miles only added and changed the filter I think once a year but did not change oil.

Change the oil if it makes you feel good but my opinion is it is a waste of money.

David

 

c9zx

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I've used synthetic oil in every engine I've owned since 1982 with zero problems. Break-in is done with specially formulated break in oil (made by Optima, Driven) after a couple of hundred miles oil is changed to synthetic (Amsoil, Optima, Driven) oil formulated for flat tappet cams for the cars that have flat tappet cams. I use Wix filters or Wix racing filters for the high rpm engines. If I wanted to use a conventional oil it would probably be Valvoline VR-1 for the hot rods. The viscosity of the oil is determined by the rod and main bearing clearances for the hot rods or manufacturers specifications for small engines. I also use synthetic 2 cycle oil in all the yard tools.

   The oil in everything is changed once a year regardless of mileage, for the reasons stated in a previous post. I gave my old JD riding mower to my son, it is starting it's 32nd season on the original engine. The Honda walk behind mower is also starting it's 32nd season with the original engine. The Stihl weed eater, edger, and blower, are starting season 25 with original engines. I've owned several vehicles with 130K + miles that used no more oil when I sold them than when they were new. My truck has 130K miles and uses no more oil than normal.

    Some differential do not like synthetic oil. I've heard True Track and Torsion Gleason are two of them but I don't have any experience with them. I do have experience with Ford traction-loks (8.0, 8.8, 9.0), Strange, and Detroit lockers. The synthetic (Amsoil, BG Products) work well in those applications. MANY years ago when I was attempting to do some road racing, I burned up two sets of Richmond differential gears. Used Amsoil the next time and never had anymore gear problems.

   I also use synthetic (Amsoil, BG Products) in manual and automatic transmissions with no problems (top loader, T5, TR 3650, MT-82, C6). I do tend to use the transmission fluid specified by the manufacturer for the newer automatic transmissions. These are just my experiences with synthetic lubricants. Chuck

 

mpbsr

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Just to clarify, I did use break in oil when the engine was rebuilt and then switched to mobil 1 full syn.

 
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There has been some very interesting and conflicting comments on this subject. I guess it all comes down to one's own preferences and experiences. Truth of the matter is there will always be somebody, whether it be a mechanic, engine builder or Joe Average, who thinks synthetic are only for newer engines that need thinner oils because of tighter tolerances, or just the opposite and to use synthetic on any engine............... and the debate continues!

It's been a good read for sure, but I will continue to use Castrol 10W30 with ZDDP and yes a different brand of filter.

Geoff.

 
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