One owner 1971 Mach 1 value?

[Machman]

How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

DONT DO THAT !

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

 

[73 CJ]

How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

DONT DO THAT !

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

 

[Machman]

How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

DONT DO THAT !

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

I reiterate do nothing on the car to make it better if you plan on negotiating price with an incalcitrant seller and there are a plethora of non dynamic tests that can be done to get an appx idea on engine cond.

The potential buyer obviously does not want to go the $15,000 and if he does all the work getting it to run it is unlikely this would strengthen his bargaining position with this seller.

If on the other hand you wish to pay the full $15,000 price, do so with a proviso that it must run and be in a pre agreed condition that is the minimum you would accept for that price.

Then put it all in writing and have it signed by the seller. Give him a refundable deposit and go to work on it , bring a mechanic if you are unknowledgeable and have all systems checked.

If at the end of all this it meets your requirements pay the rest owed and take it home , if it does not then get your deposit back or at that point negotiate price if you decide you still want it.

 

[marks73]

How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

DONT DO THAT !

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

I'm sorry but have to ask. Exactly what are your credentials when it comes to classic car sales/negotiations? You seem rather addament in your position. Or is this just one mans opinion?

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Looks like a nice car, if really is an unmolested, one owner "rust free" 71 M Code that just needs a battery to drive it home his asking price isn't that all unreasonable. My concern, since he's making that claim and asking at the top end...why doesn't the seller put a battery in it? Is it because he's physically unable to or is he a sly fox?

I've heard of potential buyers getting the cars running and the seller realizes it's now worth more so ups the price or decides to keep it. If he was only asking 7K I would definitely "not" put a battery in to see if runs...but before paying 15K I would have to test drive it, if he raised the price I would walk away since it really isn't a steal at 15K even if it does start up.

Jim

 

[Machman]

Looks like a nice car, if really is an unmolested, one owner "rust free" 71 M Code that just needs a battery to drive it home his asking price isn't that all unreasonable. My concern, since he's making that claim and asking at the top end...why doesn't the seller put a battery in it? Is it because he's physically unable to or is he a sly fox?

I've heard of potential buyers getting the cars running and the seller realizes it's now worth more so ups the price or decides to keep it. If he was only asking 7K I would definitely "not" put a battery in to see if runs...but before paying 15K I would have to test drive it, if he raised the price I would walk away since it really isn't a steal at 15K even if it does start up.

Jim

Jim I completely agree , if the seller has it listed at a reasonable price don't add value to it by getting it running for him ,

on the other hand if the price is firm at the "high" asking price then do whatever it takes to see how well it operates , but I would add if the buyer really, really wants the car at that high price get everything in writing so when and if the car is running the seller can't legally back out of the deal

 

[Qcode351mach]

Guys your making assumptions that the seller will allow this & that make agreements etc..Don't get involved with all that..some sellers don't want to be bothered & put the car out as is take it or leave it.. No B.S. ..He's not a used car lot..Do a through inspection thats it, no wash no nothing..Make your case..make a fair offer of what it's worth to you as is for a non running car in cash on the spot pulling the money out in front of him..You make a deal great, you don't leave your name & phone # if he changes his mind..I got my 71 camaro that way..for what I offered vs the asking price.. my offer was 5k less than the asking price..I got a phone call 3 weeks later asking if I still wanted the car..assume the worst hope for the best..as they say nothing ventured, nothing gained..

 

[Don65Stang]

A long time ago I saw an ad for a 65 fastback that had been sitting for several years. We agreed to a price and I said I want to make sure it runs first. He said go ahead. I spent the next few hours working on it. Got it to crank up and the guy said something like "Damn, that sounds good." Then he said "you know, I changed my mind and want to keep it now. Thanks for the help in getting it running."

Lesson learned! Never again.

I agree. Do not do anything but thoroughly inspect and negotiate accordingly. Best of luck.

 

[Machman]

Guys your making assumptions that the seller will allow this & that make agreements etc..Don't get involved with all that..some sellers don't want to be bothered & put the car out as is take it or leave it.. No B.S. ..He's not a used car lot..Do a through inspection thats it, no wash no nothing..Make your case..make a fair offer of what it's worth to you as is for a non running car in cash on the spot pulling the money out in front of him..You make a deal great, you don't leave your name & phone # if he changes his mind..I got my 71 camaro that way..for what I offered vs the asking price.. my offer was 5k less than the asking price..I got a phone call 3 weeks later asking if I still wanted the car..assume the worst hope for the best..as they say nothing ventured, nothing gained..

:amen: exactly

DONT DO THAT !

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

I'm sorry but have to ask. Exactly what are your credentials when it comes to classic car sales/negotiations? You seem rather addament in your position. Or is this just one mans opinion?

A very strong opinion based on buying and selling in all collecting areas, common sense, and a reasonable understanding of human nature.

If you have a seller selling something whether it's a car, a tractor or vintage toy and has let it fall into disrepair but is still teetering on selling it because there is a sentimental attachment, you do not want to fix it for him and devote time and money only to have him back out of the deal or raise his price because he has changed his mind.

I can see it all now ( as the crystal ball is fully warmed up ), A "doe eyed innocent", fixes a non running car for a seller , then say's "jee wiz" I would like to buy this car from you, can you give me a really, really good price on it? Please oh pretty please Mr Seller make the selling price even lower than when the car was broken and dirty..... ah yeah lollerz

A handshake and person's word are pretty worthless in business with strangers nowadays so even if you had an "oral agreement" get it on paper baby. Remember oral agreements are best if left to dealings with prostitutes

The best advise I can give (and remember it's only advise based on opinion so do what you feel best in the situation)

Come to the deal with cash, negotiate your very best price and if it's low enough buy it and tow it that is what I have always done

If it's too close to retail price and "you know not what you do" see if the seller will allow it to get checked out, do every test you can and hire a mechanic if you are not qualified to check everything

if the seller does not want to do that and you do not feel comforable buying then walk away

and lastly put everything you both agree to in writing ,

 

[mweeps]

How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

DONT DO THAT !

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

I agree. Agree on a price then bring a battery and start it. Clean it at your house. It isn't a survivor car since it has been repainted once I believe that was stated in the OP.

Guys your making assumptions that the seller will allow this & that make agreements etc..Don't get involved with all that..some sellers don't want to be bothered & put the car out as is take it or leave it.. No B.S. ..He's not a used car lot..Do a through inspection thats it, no wash no nothing..Make your case..make a fair offer of what it's worth to you as is for a non running car in cash on the spot pulling the money out in front of him..You make a deal great, you don't leave your name & phone # if he changes his mind..I got my 71 camaro that way..for what I offered vs the asking price.. my offer was 5k less than the asking price..I got a phone call 3 weeks later asking if I still wanted the car..assume the worst hope for the best..as they say nothing ventured, nothing gained..

I agree with this approach from Q!

 

[73 CJ]

DONT DO THAT !

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

I'm sorry but have to ask. Exactly what are your credentials when it comes to classic car sales/negotiations? You seem rather addament in your position. Or is this just one mans opinion?

I'll answer your question/s, and since "I" am just "1" Man , I can only give, " 1 Man's opinion". I view ALL my car purchases as both enjoyments & investments, I purchase ALL my cars with an eye towards future monetary gain/s.
My garage currently continues the following cars, & I only see an "Upside" in the price I paid & the current car's value. 1991 Ferrari Testarossa, 1973 Mach 1 CJ 4 speed "1of1", 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1972 Volvo P 1800E, 1969 Jaguar XKE FHC ( Fixed Head Coupe), 1959 Austin Healey BN6 "True" 2 seat convertable.

You asked for my credentials & I responded....cars with future monetary/appreciation gain in my opinion are C2 Corvettes, 356 Porsches, 190 SL Mercedes, 120-150 Series Jaguars....American Muscle 4 speed cars with the exception of Plymouth Super Birds & Dodge Charger Daytonas in automatics.....Mark

 

[Machman]

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

I'm sorry but have to ask. Exactly what are your credentials when it comes to classic car sales/negotiations? You seem rather addament in your position. Or is this just one mans opinion?

I'll answer your question/s, and since "I" am just "1" Man , I can only give, " 1 Man's opinion". I view ALL my car purchases as both enjoyments & investments, I purchase ALL my cars with an eye towards future monetary gain/s.
My garage currently continues the following cars, & I only see an "Upside" in the price I paid & the current car's value. 1991 Ferrari Testarossa, 1973 Mach 1 CJ 4 speed "1of1", 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1972 Volvo P 1800E, 1969 Jaguar XKE FHC ( Fixed Head Coupe), 1959 Austin Healey BN6 "True" 2 seat convertable.

You asked for my credentials & I responded....cars with future monetary/appreciation gain in my opinion are C2 Corvettes, 356 Porsches, 190 SL Mercedes, 120-150 Series Jaguars....American Muscle 4 speed cars with the exception of Plymouth Super Birds & Dodge Charger Daytonas in automatics.....Mark

Sir, I never asked for your credentials as I would not be so rude as to do so, if you trace back the topic you will see this to be the case.

 

[73 CJ]

I'm sorry but have to ask. Exactly what are your credentials when it comes to classic car sales/negotiations? You seem rather addament in your position. Or is this just one mans opinion?

I'll answer your question/s, and since "I" am just "1" Man , I can only give, " 1 Man's opinion". I view ALL my car purchases as both enjoyments & investments, I purchase ALL my cars with an eye towards future monetary gain/s.
My garage currently continues the following cars, & I only see an "Upside" in the price I paid & the current car's value. 1991 Ferrari Testarossa, 1973 Mach 1 CJ 4 speed "1of1", 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1972 Volvo P 1800E, 1969 Jaguar XKE FHC ( Fixed Head Coupe), 1959 Austin Healey BN6 "True" 2 seat convertable.

You asked for my credentials & I responded....cars with future monetary/appreciation gain in my opinion are C2 Corvettes, 356 Porsches, 190 SL Mercedes, 120-150 Series Jaguars....American Muscle 4 speed cars with the exception of Plymouth Super Birds & Dodge Charger Daytonas in automatics.....Mark

Sir, I never asked for your credentials as I would not be so rude as to do so, if you trace back the topic you will see this to be the case.

Hello Machman; I'm sorry for inadvertently bringing you into my reply, it was meant to be addressed to site member "Marks73"....my apologies for the confusion....Mark

 

[Qcode351mach]

I forgot to mention that my approach works for me since I'm capable of repairing pretty much anything myself including the body..Others may have to pay someone..Others such as 73cj look at it as enjoyment investment (I do too by the way) Some are looking to flip..The point is that everybody's situation is different therefore the approach they take price THEIR willing to pay will reflect that.

 

[jeremycfr]

It was hard for me to decide if I wanted to respond to the childish and condescending remarks made by some in this discussion. To disagree with someone’s thoughts are one thing, but to take time and ridicule their approach is another. I am disappointed in the direction this board has taken over the past several months. Rather than being a place where one can share ideas, gain advice, or get encouragement, you instead had a growing number of individuals who take pleasure in ridiculing others.

My original comments were made off the cuff as I was thinking through an approach I would take. For 15k or 9k for that matter I MUST hear the car run. That is way too much money to throw down on “trust me it runs”. Look at it this way. If the car is worth 20k (this is a made up number for anyone thinking of pouncing on my number here) in perfection condition then I am going to start looking for items that may need repair work and deduct from there. If I don’t hear the car run then I need to budget for a new one, cannot see the body clearly, then paint band bodywork must be considered, etc…

Those two items alone add up to more than 10-12k if you’re not doing the work yourself.

This man has owned this car for over 42 years and has allowed it to sit for many yeaers. His price is based on personal bias as the original owner. How do I know this? My dad always asked unrealistic numbers when people offered to buy mine as he had no real desire to sell. (BTW in Texas a handshake is legally binding if witnessed). I could go on and on but I am sure there is some itching to tear my statements to bits and prove to the world that they are much smarter than I am. Who am I to know anything about human nature? I only run a large college counseling office, have over 15 years’ experience in the field, and I am completing my doctorate (1 paper left) on adult psychology and motivation.

I would encourage people to please think before you respond and remember we're not hear giving professional advice. We came to this place because we all share a common bond. If I want to hear someone tell me how wrong I am, then I can quit this board and just follow the wife around.

Happy Monday all!

 

[pegasus]

Well said Sir ^^, it was a simple question that turned into an ego fest

 

[marks73]

I guess my whole point was this.

If someone is looking to buy a 71-73, I would assume they would do some homework as to the value of it. An internet search will certainly bring up this sight. If our own members (the supposed experts on our cars) are saying they aren't worth much then the entire model suffers. Hemmings and others expect our vehicles to go up in value and I say it's about time. 40+ classics are just that Classics. IMHO a 1 owner unmolested car is worth more than mine that I have restomoded. There are not a lot of them out there. When I say respect, I'm refering to the cars not me. Hell everbody knows how often I've stated my limited bodywork skills. I merely ask that befor we bash a cars value we keep in mind that others are looking to purchase our classics and I for one would love to see our cars gain value in the classic car arena.

 

[pegasus]

Shit mate if you want the value of these car to get up into the bloody hell price range, just move down under to Australia..

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Mustang-1973/SSE-AD-930961/?Cr=4&sdmvc=1

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Mustang-1972/SSE-AD-2287882/?Cr=9&sdmvc=1

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Ford-Mustang-1973/AGC-AD-11923052/?Cr=3&sdmvc=1

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Ford-Mustang-1971/AGC-AD-13916649/?Cr=17&sdmvc=1


Hmmm first link didn't work, try these puppies on for size...

 

[pegasus]

IMHO, don't go and insult the seller with a cheap low ball offer, if you do his opinion and regard for you will probably be one of, get your cheap ass off my property and stop wasting my time..

Take $12K with you and make that offer, No nonsense No Bullshit. and leave your name and number, if he say's no.. some times people need a few days to think things over. Nobody likes cheap n pushy fast talk'n loud mouthed wankers..

Have respect and be respectful...

It's all anyone wants, is to be treated fairly and not as if the Vultures are circling.

The man has owned the car for a long time, and it's not just an object to him..

 

[RocketFoot]

Negative replies to classified ads and forum vendor ads will be viewed as trolling/instigation! If you see any negative comments, please avoid fueling the fire and just hit the report button. The staff will take care of the situation!

Thanks all!