One Piece Export/Monte Carlo Brace-Who's interested??

[4mm]

I emailed Tracy concerning the fabrication of a one piece Monte Carlo/Export brace for our cars, similar to the Maier racing piece. I have the MPG Heads brace but I don't like the fact that it is a multi piece unit. I would rather have a one piece.

I am looking for feedback/suggestions as to how it can be fabricated so we can request this from Tracy. I understand the tolerances vary from car to car but I don't know how Maier Racing can get it done with a one piece for the 69 to 70 mustangs

Below are the examplea I would like to see for our cars


One more


Last one

 

[EBSTANG]

Let us know what they come up with...I may be interested.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

It could have more clearance up front for oversized distributors and such. I think it is a good idea and would prefer something one piece . . . right up until I needed to remove a valve cover. . . .

 

[4mm]

Yes you all have a valid point but what I'm after is structural reinforcement. Trying to reduce that shakiness harsh NVH of the front end everytime we hit a bump on the road.

Here is where I am with Tracy. PTPE (Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering) is located in Anaheim California. If anybody can briefly take in their car for measuring I will send my aluminum Export/Monte Carlo brace to him so he can re-engineer it into a one piece steel unit.

 

[vozaday]

Very interested!!!!!

Only concern would be shipping costs with something that large.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

One solution would be to sell a builder's kit with the front bar detached and to be welded up by the user to match their car's dimensions. Then they could offer front bars with varying curvatures for different engine set ups.

 

[mongos73cobrajet]

im interested in one sounds like a good idea

mongos CJ::thumb::

 

[Qcode351mach]

Due to the fact that so many of these cars have had aprons and other front structural pieces replaced over the years one size isn't going to fit all. Your going to need to have the front bar adjustable on one side via a turnbuckle arrangement. Take a look at the 2004 350z they come from the factory with a strut tower brace and one side is adjustable via turnbuckle and locking nuts.

 

[Don C]

Due to the fact that so many of these cars have had aprons and other front structural pieces replaced over the years one size isn't going to fit all. Your going to need to have the front bar adjustable on one side via a turnbuckle arrangement. Take a look at the 2004 350z they come from the factory with a strut tower brace and one side is adjustable via turnbuckle and locking nuts.

My thoughts, too. Even without any post production repairs or modifications I believe there was too much production variations for one size to fit all.

 

[tony-muscle]

Can they sell it with the flanges not drilled? Then each individual will drill the holes where needed.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[LCB1]

I would be interested depending on the cost.

 

[4mm]

Can they sell it with the flanges not drilled? Then each individual will drill the holes where needed.

1971 M-code Mach 1

Yes they can and you have a good idea. All we need to get this going is get a car to Anaheim California for one afternoon.

 

[blackford]

Can they sell it with the flanges not drilled? Then each individual will drill the holes where needed.

1971 M-code Mach 1

Yes they can and you have a good idea. All we need to get this going is get a car to Anaheim California for one afternoon.

I promise i'll give it back when i'm done...:whistling:

But really, I remember when I put a one piece export brace on a 65 FB...had to use a jack to spread out the shock towers about 3/16" to get it to fit.

Franks problem with the MPG unit is that it has movable rod ends at all 3 corners so there can be shock tower and body flex.

One piece export/monte carlo bar that fits all will be a challenge. You would have a few diff ways to go (these are just brainstorming ideas...i'll just throw them out there):

Drill holes oversize and use grade 8 hardware to install it and rely on clamping force to hold the bar in place. 5/16 UNF bolts have over 5000 lbs of clamping force and 3 at each shock tower would be pretty solid. But, you can overdrill so much before it gets sloppy.

Make the V to the shock towers solid and the cross bar adjustable. If the V is solid and rigid, the heim joints on the cross bar are only going to see tensile or compression loads so there shouldn't be any movement of the shock towers even if some of the linkage (the cross bar) has more degrees of freedom.

Use solid rod ends like these, and have each of the 3 legs be adjustable. Once the unit is adjusted, torque the rod end bolts to hold it all in place and to make it rigid. A 1/2" grade 8 bolt has over 10,000 lbs of clamping force when torqued to spec.

I like the solid rod end idea actually...it allows for a lot of adjustment. You could probably "fix" the MPG unit by replacing the existing rod ends with solid ones if the existing hardware is strong enough to provide good clamping force.

One of the biggest challenges is to get the dimensions correct. Not only is there the distance from the shock towers to the firewall, but the shock towers are at a lower plane and it looks like they angle in a bit. You almost need to make up some plates for all 3 corners, install them on a golden car and then weld in some braces to connect them all together and then remove the part from the car and use it to build a jig.

 

[Boss1Ray]

Yes you all have a valid point but what I'm after is structural reinforcement. Trying to reduce that shakiness harsh NVH of the front end everytime we hit a bump on the road.

Here is where I am with Tracy. PTPE (Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering) is located in Anaheim California. If anybody can briefly take in their car for measuring I will send my aluminum Export/Monte Carlo brace to him so he can re-engineer it into a one piece steel unit.

Due to the fact that so many of these cars have had aprons and other front structural pieces replaced over the years one size isn't going to fit all. Your going to need to have the front bar adjustable on one side via a turnbuckle arrangement. Take a look at the 2004 350z they come from the factory with a strut tower brace and one side is adjustable via turnbuckle and locking nuts.

Calling on Southern California members!!! If anyone can - get with Frank (4mm) and help him get a car to that shop in Anaheim. That will give them a starting point for fabrication.

I have to chime in and agree with Scott and others concerning something adjustable.

Again - contact 4mm for more details!

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ray

 

[4mm]

I'm still very interested in getting this done by Tracy at Pacific Thunder Performance.

Something along the lines of this. Looks like a good cross between stock and resto-mod. Tracy is offering us some good products for our 123 Mustangs. Hope we can all somehow help him pull off this one.

Tracy?

 

[Bentworker]

I'm in if the finished product does not have any pivot points at the towers. I like how the Maier one has absolutely no pivot points. I understand the need for some adjustment though, maybe put the turnbuckle in the center of the Monte Carlo instead of the ends?

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Just to throw in a thought. I would ask PTP what material they would use to fabricate the parts. Regular hot rolled or cold rolled steel has a min. yield of about 25,000. You can double and triple that strength by using the right raw materials. Chrome molly tube and plate would double the strength. Or HSLA Hight Strength Low Alloy welds better than chrome molly and does not require the welds to be annealed to prevent cracks.

When you stiffen up the chassis you for sure will need the suspension to do a better job since you have less body flex the ride could get pretty rough. An example is the Dodge Viper rides like a wagon. With my height I cannot ride in one without turning my head sideways keeps hitting the roof.

 

[blackford]

Just to throw in a thought. I would ask PTP what material they would use to fabricate the parts. Regular hot rolled or cold rolled steel has a min. yield of about 25,000. You can double and triple that strength by using the right raw materials. Chrome molly tube and plate would double the strength. Or HSLA Hight Strength Low Alloy welds better than chrome molly and does not require the welds to be annealed to prevent cracks.

When you stiffen up the chassis you for sure will need the suspension to do a better job since you have less body flex the ride could get pretty rough. An example is the Dodge Viper rides like a wagon. With my height I cannot ride in one without turning my head sideways keeps hitting the roof.

Hot roll and cold roll is stronger than that. Hot roll A36 has 36,000 psi yield strength and cold roll 1018 has 54,000 psi yield strength. These are minimums and they tend to be stronger than minimum requirements. DOM tube has 72,000 psi minimum yield strength but I was looking at one of the Material Test Data Sheets for some DOM tube I bought and the batch had yield strength in the 90,000 psi range...::thumb:: This brace can be made to be very strong with these materials.

Chrome moly 4130 is a little weaker than DOM in its normalized state. I've talked to the old timer welders at the industrial supply store I go to and they say to use ERS70-2 wire and heat the 4130 chrome moly tube to take the chill out if it before welding. I have not used chrome moly for anything yet...haven't needed to. 4340 is strong but more difficult to weld and requires pre-heat, post-heat, etc.

 

[blackford]

I'm still very interested in getting this done by Tracy at Pacific Thunder Performance.

Something along the lines of this. Looks like a good cross between stock and resto-mod. Tracy is offering us some good products for our 123 Mustangs. Hope we can all somehow help him pull off this one.

Tracy?

I went to the Fabulous Fords Forever show in April and I got some measurements from an accommodating owner. It's not going to be a symmetrical piece as you guys probably know. The drivers side mounting holes on the firewall are further back than the passenger side and the two holes on that side are not inline either. I'll post a dimensional diagram later and hopefully someone can verify my measurements.