Original replacement shock absorbers

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Are the measurements of the ebay one the same as the picture in the manual? Is your sway bar original or aftermarket?
The sway bar is the original one, it does have the replacement energy suspension polyurethane bushings and links, but they were the same size as the original ones.
 
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We all have our fav shocks here but has anyone found it a real PITA to get at the inside nuts on the front studs to acheive "proper" torque/tension even with a thin walled socket? 🤔
 
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We all have our fav shocks here but has anyone found it a real PITA to get at the inside nuts on the front studs to acheive "proper" torque/tension even with a thin walled socket? 🤔
Are you talking about the inner nut at the bottom of the shock? I haven't done it yet, but heard if you put a jack under the lower control arm and raise it up it gives you much better access.
 
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I just put QA1's on out back. Front ones don't get here until Wednesday but I'm super excited to try them. Also learned that with a folding rear seat, you don't have to remove the back seats, just remove the last panel when folded down. It comes out individually. That was nice to learn.
 
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1988 Mustang 5.0L LX Convertible
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IF you still happen to have those rear shocks that you presume are the factory ones, could you do me/us a favor and measure the barrel length and the extended length as well if possible, post some pictures. This would be a great comparison against the KYB GaJ's or Excel-G or other brands available.
Thanks.
Will do the trash has not gone out yet ...will take pics....Motorcraft made in Canada
 
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1972 Mustang convertible, 351C 2V with FMX (#'s matching)
Currently equipped with 351C 4V 4BM, .060 over, roller cam, Sanderson block huggers, -AC
I just put QA1's on out back. Front ones don't get here until Wednesday but I'm super excited to try them. Also learned that with a folding rear seat, you don't have to remove the back seats, just remove the last panel when folded down. It comes out individually. That was nice to learn.
You'll see what I mean when you install them and pay attention to how tight you go with the nuts as I eyeballed them (rubber bushing squish) the first time and and checked on them after about a week and three out of four pulled through the washers. I called the boys in Minny and they do not manuf or recommend urethane bushings but they sent me a "lifetime supply" of them!
 
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We all have our fav shocks here but has anyone found it a real PITA to get at the inside nuts on the front studs to acheive "proper" torque/tension even with a thin walled socket?
They are a real PITA for sure, but with standard size perches, I was able to get a long 1/2" socket on and tighten. There is a spring washer on mine, so I tighten till good and snug. The rubber bushings do not need to be squashed too much. If I see movement at the top bushings, I'll retighten them as necessary. I also have only ever used rubber bushings and never had one pull through, but with these Excel-G's, I'm more concerned about one blowing upward through the cap as there is a 1/2" less space under the cap than with the GaJ's.
EDIT: They are not going to blow upwards either, WTF was I thinking! Too large washer under the lower bushing.
 
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Fully compressed 15 3/4"
Fully extended 23"

2 3/4" both ends base of shock to tip of rod
Awesome, thank you. I was going to do the back ones today, but as I have to work outside, it looks like rain anytime soon, so that job can wait a few days.
At least now, I can compare the KYB's to yours.
Again, many thanks.

EDIT:
KYB Excel-G rear shock.
Total overall length; 22 1/4".
Barrel length, extended, shoulder to shoulder; 17 1/4".
Fully compressed, overall length; 15 1/2".
From shoulder to end of threaded portion (tip); 2 3/8".
So, just a little shorter and will need to make sure they are not under strain with the axle at its lowest position, car jacked up. i.e. jack stand under the frame ahead of the axle.
I'll add more once I get the swap done.
 
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You'll see what I mean when you install them and pay attention to how tight you go with the nuts as I eyeballed them (rubber bushing squish) the first time and and checked on them after about a week and three out of four pulled through the washers. I called the boys in Minny and they do not manuf or recommend urethane bushings but they sent me a "lifetime supply" of them!
I'm no fan of urethane bushings myself. Much prefer the feel of rubber. Urathane in my past experience has always been much too firm and always felt like they passed on too much vibration. I I've always gone 50% compression on rubber bushings and not more. Never had a problem.
 
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Well as I've well and truly "hijacked" Maddmike's thread, but with good intentions, I'll finish by adding that I have now completed the swap from KYB Gas-A-Just shocks to KYB Excel-G's. I'm very pleased with result for MY car. Shocks control the up and down rebound, not the handling. With Boss 153 lb spring rate rear leaf springs (Eaton's) and an Addco 7/8" rear sway bar, I can still slam it around corners, but without the thing hitting me up the a$$ over bumps. And to me, that's a win.
KYB's are a relatively inexpensive shock, but what people want to put on is their choice. These worked for my budget and requirements.
 
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