P/S pump replacement a dud -- what now?

[RC92234]

I replaced the P/S pump because the original was leaking. Sure, could have had it rebuilt instead but my first go-around with that was far from successful. So, a new pump this time. I thought I followed the new pump procedure of turning the wheel 1/3rd left and 1/3rd right several times while in Park, and still there is no power assist at low speed. Belt is tight, pump is full.

Repeats of the break-in procedure have made no difference. Fluid is still good and the pump doesn't leak. What now, drain the system and start over with fresh fluid? Replace the pump and try again? Open to whatever makes sense that works. Thanks,

 

[machattack]

Bench test the pump before the install.
Fill the reservoir and Use a larger chuck drill run the pump. Extend the pressure side tube with a length of garden hose into a bucket. Dont need a return line.
I went through 3 pumps before I found one that works. One was a rebuild, one was brand new, and the the last one was from a 1968 mustang. The 3rd one I bench tested first. Then changed out the can so the return line was correct.

 

[Stanglover]

I'm no where near an expert on pumps, or anything for that matter and I'm assuming you're talking about the round Ford Thompson style pump, so if the pulley (shaft) is turning the eccentric cam then it ought to be pumping fluid, so I'm thinking the internal pressure valve is not working or has been installed incorrectly. They are quite simple inside and the worst issue is often squealing. Other possible causes could be the eccentric cam and the slippers have not been installed correctly either. The problem is what to do, send it back or try a rebuild yourself.
The one you have that leaks is not that hard to reseal. Apparently the biggest mistake people make is they use a pry bar to tighten the belt using the body of the pump to lever against and dent/distort the canister. Dumb ass here did that too before wising up.
We've had this conversation before, but here is the link to the last posts.
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/i-need-a-new-ps-pump.40573/

 

[BOSS 429]

where are you buying these junk pumps from? I never had one go bad since I got my first car in the 70s,and I have had a LOT of FORDS

 

[Kilgon]

Have you tried turning the wheels stop to stop. If there is air in the system it will compress and act like the pump is not working properly. Turning the wheels stop to stop should get any air out.

 

[Stanglover]

where are you buying these junk pumps from? I never had one go bad since I got my first car in the 70s,and I have had a LOT of FORDS

I think possibly the problem is "todays world" where no-one seems to give a damn. Throw it together and get it out the door. Money is more important than quality. It never used to be that way.

 

[Stanglover]

Have you tried turning the wheels stop to stop. If there is air in the system it will compress and act like the pump is not working properly. Turning the wheels stop to stop should get any air out.

I would add to that to lift the wheels off the ground first, on jack stands.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

I have been down this road with bad P/S pumps. I had to replace my original pump several years ago when my PS box blew a seal while on the road. I knew I was going to trash the pump but made it home. It took 3 pumps until I got one that worked. Very frustrating indeed. I am sure the rebuilt units have only gotten worse. I ended up buying an OE pump seal kit and used my original housing with a working rebuilt pump assembly. It has been fine for the last 28 years. There really is no special procedure after installation as the system self bleeds when you fill it and run it. Use type F fluid.

Ron

 

[RC92234]

I wanted to keep my original so I sent it out for rebuild. For what I went though, I'd have been better off acquiring the necessary tools and doing it myself because the pump I got back *was not mine*. The fluid connections were way different. It took two attempts (and about 6 months) to get a correct pump from the rebuilder and still I never knew if it was the original. Note: take pictures of *everything* before you send it away. Anyway, number 3 in the rebuild fiasco started leaking right away so I went with a new repro. That vendor made a mistake and sent me a 2nd which I tried to return but because of their computer systems they had no purchase to return it against and told me to keep it.
I'll try the jack stand and complete turns to the left and right before giving up on the one installed. If that works Kilgon and Stanglover, then my undying thanks to the both of ya. If that doesn't work... well, then, the other fix-it alternatives will be considered, including using the "bonus" one that was sent.

 

[Stanglover]

I wanted to keep my original so I sent it out for rebuild. For what I went though, I'd have been better off acquiring the necessary tools and doing it myself because the pump I got back *was not mine*. The fluid connections were way different. It took two attempts (and about 6 months) to get a correct pump from the rebuilder and still I never knew if it was the original. Note: take pictures of *everything* before you send it away. Anyway, number 3 in the rebuild fiasco started leaking right away so I went with a new repro. That vendor made a mistake and sent me a 2nd which I tried to return but because of their computer systems they had no purchase to return it against and told me to keep it.
I'll try the jack stand and complete turns to the left and right before giving up on the one installed. If that works Kilgon and Stanglover, then my undying thanks to the both of ya. If that doesn't work... well, then, the other fix-it alternatives will be considered, including using the "bonus" one that was sent.

Damn, you've been through the mill and back on that one. What a piss off!
As you have a "spare", you might think about doing a rebuild. There is some good info on this and if it was not referenced in the linked post, I think I still have it on my computer and can post it. If you do, take pics as you strip it down, look at everything so you understand how it works and where pieces go. You will need that special puller/installer for the pulley, but very reasonable at Harbor Freight. That is all I bought and it did the job........ twice, I did a pump for a friend as well.
The rebuild kits are cheap too from Rock Auto.
Good luck moving forward.
EDIT: in the thread I linked, post 47-50 might be of interest. I reference where to find the complete rebuild process, but I did not post the link on purpose.

 

[Sheriff41]

Not trying to be rude but you are sure the plug was removed from the hose connection, right? I only ask because I've seen it happen before.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

I wanted to keep my original so I sent it out for rebuild. For what I went though, I'd have been better off acquiring the necessary tools and doing it myself because the pump I got back *was not mine*. The fluid connections were way different. It took two attempts (and about 6 months) to get a correct pump from the rebuilder and still I never knew if it was the original. Note: take pictures of *everything* before you send it away. Anyway, number 3 in the rebuild fiasco started leaking right away so I went with a new repro. That vendor made a mistake and sent me a 2nd which I tried to return but because of their computer systems they had no purchase to return it against and told me to keep it.
I'll try the jack stand and complete turns to the left and right before giving up on the one installed. If that works Kilgon and Stanglover, then my undying thanks to the both of ya. If that doesn't work... well, then, the other fix-it alternatives will be considered, including using the "bonus" one that was sent.

It is not a good scene out there Re: parts/rebuilders. 80% of them are bullshit artists. Patience and persistence will get you to your goal. As I said bleeding it will not solve your problem. If it does not make pressure right away, then it is is junk.

 

[MooseStang]

I recently bought a new Lars pump
View attachment 20230217_175147.mp4
and a used pulley. Took forever to bleed the system. So far so good.

 

[70cobrascj]

I'm no where near an expert on pumps, or anything for that matter and I'm assuming you're talking about the round Ford Thompson style pump, so if the pulley (shaft) is turning the eccentric cam then it ought to be pumping fluid, so I'm thinking the internal pressure valve is not working or has been installed incorrectly. They are quite simple inside and the worst issue is often squealing. Other possible causes could be the eccentric cam and the slippers have not been installed correctly either. The problem is what to do, send it back or try a rebuild yourself.
The one you have that leaks is not that hard to reseal. Apparently the biggest mistake people make is they use a pry bar to tighten the belt using the body of the pump to lever against and dent/distort the canister. Dumb ass here did that too before wising up.
We've had this conversation before, but here is the link to the last posts.
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/i-need-a-new-ps-pump.40573/

I don’t know if this has been mentioned yet but I have been guilty of prying on the ps can to tension the belt and noticed I dented the can. So I thought there had to be better way to do it. After slowing down and taking a look at it I noticed on my pump face there is a square rib and a 9/16 open end wrench fits perfectly on it and it’s there so you can tension the belt. Just some FYI