Paint polishing/buffing question

[rpxr400]

So, I touched up an area on my door and now I need to polish it.

I had to sand to metal, spot putty, prime and paint. I also wet sanded between some primer and paint coats.

Anyway, their (paintscratch.com) instructions say to wait 3 days and polish with rubbing compound. I had a bad experience with rubbing compound in the past with another car, so am hesitant to use it (maybe the product has evolved in 30 years?? lol) :

Per their instructions:

Use rubbing compound to make it shine. Wait at least three days, then apply rubbing compound to the the entire area of car paint you fixed. This will make it smooth and shiny. Wait at least 30 days before waxing.

Single Stage Paints Wait approximately three days, then apply rubbing compound to the single stage paint as explained above under Use rubbing compound.

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I have the following at home, and an wondering if/which of these I can use to polish it up:

I also have a porter cable random orbit polisher and several different pads, so if I can use that with the above, please advise.

I also have several sandpapers - definitely up to 1500# - maybe even 2000.

The area I'll be working on is small - about 12"x12"

Thanks, in advance for the help !

 

[Qcode351mach]

Base coat clear coat with a blend ? Or Single stage with a blend ? Did you use blending agent ? Also assuming you used catalyzed paint(hardener added to single stage or to clear coat)

 

[rpxr400]

Q - It's single stage (2B color), I didn't use a blending agent - I don't even know what that is. Paintscratch sells color matched paint in spray cans (in addition to pens, bottles, pt > gal cans. I used a spray can. There were no specific instructions to use any other product. So, if "single stage with a blend" means single stage blended to surrounding paint - yes. I'm not a body guy so I'm not up on the terminology.

Base coat clear coat with a blend ? Or Single stage with a blend ? Did you use blending agent ? Also assuming you used catalyzed paint(hardener added to single stage or to clear coat)

 

[Qcode351mach]

Q - It's single stage (2B color), I didn't use a blending agent - I don't even know what that is. Paintscratch sells color matched paint in spray cans (in addition to pens, bottles, pt > gal cans. I used a spray can. There were no specific instructions to use any other product. So, if "single stage with a blend" means single stage blended to surrounding paint - yes. I'm not a body guy so I'm not up on the terminology.

Base coat clear coat with a blend ? Or Single stage with a blend ? Did you use blending agent ? Also assuming you used catalyzed paint(hardener added to single stage or to clear coat)

So you probably have a lacquer or enamel based air dry type paint. --light buff with foam pad (orange) and the meguiars ultra cut- I wouldn't wet sand unless you really need too. With that type of paint you run the risk of cutting through real easy and wet sanding is just going to make matters worse if you never polished or buffed new paint before. Don't expect much from that paint system, Theres a good chance your going to see the blend too since there's no catalyzed clear or blending agent used and polishing is just going to show the transition even more.

 

[rpxr400]

Yes - I'm pretty sure somewhere I saw that i was lacquer - I just can't find it again.

Am I better off hand buffing/polishing rather than using my polisher ? It's a small area, so it wouldn't be too bad to do.

I realize The blend will probable be visible, but I think it'll look better than I expect it to, and better than if I left the gouges in the paint!!

I'll wait a couple more days and get my buff on - lol.

I'll let ya know how it turns out.

Thx for the input !

 

[Qcode351mach]

Am I better off hand buffing/polishing rather than using my polisher ?

Thx for the input !

Porter cable random orbit polisher should be fine with a orange foamy...Hand wont bring the full shine out on the first cut. Maybe hand with the glaze, after the machine.

 

[Go Time]

Try not to allow rotation of the pad to rotate into blend if you can. Especially if you have some type of blender solution which I don't think you do. You want to rotate off the blend if you are on it at all. Not too much or a visible distinct separation between new paint and old paint will be visible. It's not the easiest to buff a blend it's my most nerve racking detailing event. I used to buff all day everyday in another job about 12 years ago in a van conversion shop. I used the mcguires ultra cut once it's not bad if I remember not as aggressive as 3m but like I said 12 years ago or more. Just take your time and sneak up on the finish. Too much too fast is a recipe for disaster.

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