Power Steering box , not sure if it is a clever question...

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Machvince

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Hello,
My Power Steering Box is leaking.. I tried to removed it, but didn't succeed (i have no elevator , and i have to crawl under the car..)
I know i can send the box to the US but it takes some weeks. So i'm searching to buy a new or rebuild. but.. can I identify the pump prior to removing it ? when i search , i find that it can be a saginaw or a borgeson.. Does it means that i can replace one with another ?
Sorry to ask this question.. but it becomes hard to find part for Mustang in France...and get the real information.
73 Mach One Manual 4 speed, AC and power steering..
 

Hemikiller

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The power steering gearbox will have an identification tag bolted down under one of the top cover fasteners. There's a 99% chance it's a Saginaw, but I did recently see a 71-73 that had been fitted with a Ford PS box - presumably by the previous owner. You definitely want to stay with a Saginaw box, they are a much better unit than the Borgeson or the Ford, RedHead Power Steering and Lee Power Steering have good reputations.

1642342049212.png


Another option is to rebuild it yourself. You will need an inch-lb torque wrench, a shop press and some other tools. Kits are about $20 US

 
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Hello,
First, where is the box leaking from? I would assume the bottom of the sector shaft. If that is the case, then the sector shaft is badly worn and will need to be repaired or replaced. Resealing kits are available from Rock Auto if you are able mechanically to strip and rebuild your own PS box. It is not a job for the non-mechanically minded. If you are able to do that job, do you have a good machine shop where they could repair the sector shaft. This will need to be turned down where the worn part is and hard chrome plated, then ground to 1.250" (31.750mm). Unfortunately I have not found a source for repaired sector shafts.
If that sounds too much, then you should buy new from Red Hat or Powersteering.com, I think it is. You could then take advantage of buying an upgraded ratio like 12.7:1 instead of the variable ratio your car ought to have right now. The tag number should be either SPA-T or V or SPA-AD or AF depending on when your car was built.
Hope that helps without confusing you.
EDIT: this is a pic of a repaired sector shaft, The lower portion above the splines has been turned down by .010"(0.25mm) hard chromed, then reground to correct size.
IF Saginaw had just installed a dirt seal between the pitman arm and casting, there would be less chance of a leak failure.
 

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Hemikiller

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Hemi, I guess we were typing at the same time. Good info from you. Is it Red Head or Red Hat?

LOL, yes we were. It's Red Head.

Forgot to add, I bought a reman quick ratio Lares box from RockAuto. Ended up returning it since the preload was set wrong and it was incredibly stiff through the range of motion.
 
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LOL, yes we were. It's Red Head.

Forgot to add, I bought a reman quick ratio Lares box from RockAuto. Ended up returning it since the preload was set wrong and it was incredibly stiff through the range of motion.
Ah, I stand corrected.
The Lares box, you could probably have reset the preload with the right tools.
 

Hemikiller

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Ah, I stand corrected.
The Lares box, you could probably have reset the preload with the right tools.

Sure, but it was marked from Lares and I wasn't about to mess with it and invalidate the warranty. I didn't buy a reman box to have to take it all apart and reset the preload, I spent the money to save me time. The preload should have been set correctly at their facility. It wasn't the sector shaft mesh preload that was off, it was either the selective balls, or the worm bearing, since it was reading a constant 35 in/lb from lock to lock. I decided they needed to eat this box and maybe they'll adjust their QC process. A bright spot, RA paid me back for my core, so the $200 for the junker I sent in soothed my irritation.
 
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Sure, but it was marked from Lares and I wasn't about to mess with it and invalidate the warranty. I didn't buy a reman box to have to take it all apart and reset the preload, I spent the money to save me time. The preload should have been set correctly at their facility. It wasn't the sector shaft mesh preload that was off, it was either the selective balls, or the worm bearing, since it was reading a constant 35 in/lb from lock to lock. I decided they needed to eat this box and maybe they'll adjust their QC process. A bright spot, RA paid me back for my core, so the $200 for the junker I sent in soothed my irritation.
Totally agree Hemi, it SHOULD have been correct from their facility, so you did the right thing in sending it back. I would be pissed too for sure. I just meant that it could have been reset if that was the only option at the time. I had my issues with a so called professional rebuilder and why I ended up learning how to do it myself and stay alive.
Glad you got your core money back too. I have found RA to be very good with help and refunds.......... once you can get through to someone.
 

Machvince

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Well.. thanks for your answers ! The summary (according to the fact that i 'am not a mechanic ) is that i have to find the replacement part, i mean a "new" one. Last year, it began to leak, an i bought a new set of seals.. and a friend of my tried to fix it. I work... for 300 miles.. It seems that it is leaking from the bottom of the box ( the upper part of the box is still dry..).. I will try to get a new one directly at Redhat, Leepower, powersteering. I previously tried to get one from cardone, but they didn't sell directly to customers.. Thanks again ! (y)
 

Eddie1972

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Hello,
First, where is the box leaking from? I would assume the bottom of the sector shaft. If that is the case, then the sector shaft is badly worn and will need to be repaired or replaced. Resealing kits are available from Rock Auto if you are able mechanically to strip and rebuild your own PS box. It is not a job for the non-mechanically minded. If you are able to do that job, do you have a good machine shop where they could repair the sector shaft. This will need to be turned down where the worn part is and hard chrome plated, then ground to 1.250" (31.750mm). Unfortunately I have not found a source for repaired sector shafts.
If that sounds too much, then you should buy new from Red Hat or Powersteering.com, I think it is. You could then take advantage of buying an upgraded ratio like 12.7:1 instead of the variable ratio your car ought to have right now. The tag number should be either SPA-T or V or SPA-AD or AF depending on when your car was built.
Hope that helps without confusing you.
EDIT: this is a pic of a repaired sector shaft, The lower portion above the splines has been turned down by .010"(0.25mm) hard chromed, then reground to correct size.
IF Saginaw had just installed a dirt seal between the pitman arm and casting, there would be less chance of a leak failure.
Good suggestions. I removed my PS gear box and rebuilt it myself. Watched the youtube rebuild videos several times and decided since I already had it out, I may as well try to do the rebuild myself. The kit was about $35 and it did take 2 trials to do the job (ball bearings were harder to put in than anticipated), but it has been working fine for 5 years. It's always a nice feeling of accomplishment to do the job yourself and save a lot of cash, too.
 
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Well.. thanks for your answers ! The summary (according to the fact that i 'am not a mechanic ) is that i have to find the replacement part, i mean a "new" one. Last year, it began to leak, an i bought a new set of seals.. and a friend of my tried to fix it. I work... for 300 miles.. It seems that it is leaking from the bottom of the box ( the upper part of the box is still dry..).. I will try to get a new one directly at Redhat, Leepower, powersteering. I previously tried to get one from cardone, but they didn't sell directly to customers.. Thanks again ! (y)
Hello again,
In your case, I would buy a new PS box. As you have a Mach 1, make sure the ratio is correct, which is a variable ratio 16 to 13:1, OR buy the fast ratio upgrade.
I made a mistake in my post, it is Red Head not Red Hat.
Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.
 

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I rebuilt the one one my 72 a couple years ago. It wasn’t too bad of a job. I watched multiple videos on line line and then took on the challenge. I got a rebuild kit for around thirty dollars I think. I’m not a mechanic by any stretch but it went alright. I did tie a rope around it and a support brace to help hold it up when I was reinstalling it. It’s hell getting old and I just didn’t have the strength to hold it up and get it to slip into place. Lol. No leaks at this point in time. There is also an adjustment on the top that really helped tighten up my steering. Mine had a lot of play in it.
 

algon

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Hello again,
In your case, I would buy a new PS box. As you have a Mach 1, make sure the ratio is correct, which is a variable ratio 16 to 13:1, OR buy the fast ratio upgrade.
I made a mistake in my post, it is Red Head not Red Hat.
Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.


Hello again,
In your case, I would buy a new PS box. As you have a Mach 1, make sure the ratio is correct, which is a variable ratio 16 to 13:1, OR buy the fast ratio upgrade.
I made a mistake in my post, it is Red Head not Red Hat.
Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.
Stanglover,

I have a 73 convertible that has a worn out power steering box, sorry but I don't have the ID tag with me so not sure if constant or variable ratio. It is leaking, very noisy and notchy. I am interested in the 12.7:1 ratio you mentioned at Red Heads. Are mods required such as different Ford pump?
 
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Good suggestions. I removed my PS gear box and rebuilt it myself. Watched the youtube rebuild videos several times and decided since I already had it out, I may as well try to do the rebuild myself. The kit was about $35 and it did take 2 trials to do the job (ball bearings were harder to put in than anticipated), but it has been working fine for 5 years. It's always a nice feeling of accomplishment to do the job yourself and save a lot of cash, too.

Stanglover,

I have a 73 convertible that has a worn out power steering box, sorry but I don't have the ID tag with me so not sure if constant or variable ratio. It is leaking, very noisy and notchy. I am interested in the 12.7:1 ratio you mentioned at Red Heads. Are mods required such as different Ford pump?
I do not know for sure, but I don't believe so. It's only the ratio that is different.
Your 73 vert will likely have the fixed ratio 17.5:1 box. Easy to figure out, count the revolutions from full lock to lock. I think it should be 4 turns. A variable is 3 1/8 turns L to L. I'm sure others will agree, if you're going to do that level of upgrade, maybe time to do a total steering rebuild including the idler arm. **Ask here for best parts suggestions before buying**.
 

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OK Geoff and thank you. Well I'm asking. What and from where are the best power steering parts that you would recomend including the idler arm and pump and hoses. \ Question: is the idler arm different on my 73 than a 71 or 72? Many mustang parts books seem to stop at 71-72 . I've already rebuilt the front suspension a short time ago with new bushings tie rod ends spring perches, lowering springs and shocks. Also added a slightly larger front sway bar w/bushings,
 
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OK Geoff and thank you. Well I'm asking. What and from where are the best power steering parts that you would recomend including the idler arm and pump and hoses. \ Question: is the idler arm different on my 73 than a 71 or 72? Many mustang parts books seem to stop at 71-72 . I've already rebuilt the front suspension a short time ago with new bushings tie rod ends spring perches, lowering springs and shocks. Also added a slightly larger front sway bar w/bushings,
As for any difference between 71-2"s and 73, I can't say. I don't think there is any difference in the idler, but knowing Ford, anything is possible. I usually buy from NPD because I could drive there and pick up what I needed and ask question. 'There has been lots discussed here in the past on idler arms. The one I bought was NPD # 3355-1A EXCEPT I found I needed to slot the TOP hole upwards with a round file to get the bolt in. Not a big issue, but be aware. Other brands may look different, but as longas the geometry is the same as the original, it will work. I have a sketch of what I mean.
Good to know you have already done most of the front end.
Steering alignment, 3-4 degrees castor, 1/8" toe-in.
 

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I have to chime in as Idler arms kept me busy a few months. It is not that easy to find a right one nowadays for our cars that fits without modifications. But that would be another story for another thread not for this thread concerning the power steering box. Long story short: originally 71-3 all the same, power or manual steering. If you want the best bang for the buck without searching, trying and fiddling, that one fits right away and looks OEM:


Do not buy a Moog now, it will not fit. Moog dropped their improved idler arm for our cars a few years ago. I found one on eBay, a NOS K-8165, and installed it, no problems there, a direct fit. Had to find the right castle nut for the center linkage but that was not the problem of the idler arm though...
 
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In addition a little thread with my opinions about this:

 

algon

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Stanglover,

I have a 73 convertible that has a worn out power steering box, sorry but I don't have the ID tag with me so not sure if constant or variable ratio. It is leaking, very noisy and notchy. I am interested in the 12.7:1 ratio you mentioned at Red Heads. Are mods required such as different Ford pump?
OK so I read the tag of my steering box - SPA-AE, which I see is a constant ratio @ 22:1. I plan on getting the Red Head quick ratio power steering box @ 12.7:1 . My questions are there any other changes I will need to make to install in my long nosed Mustang? Is the Red Head box a constant or variable ratio box?
 

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