Problem with engine/carb

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jep1701

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1973 Mustang convertible with a Windsor V8. Bout in January 2020. Most of the interior is original and was repainted a few years ago.


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Hello Everyone,

Have a problem with my '73. I search past info and got some ideas but could use input. 

Situation

Took the Mustang out for a Christmas dive with my father-in-law in sunny Central Florida. Everything running great. As the temperature dropped (it's a 'vert) I popped on the heat at a traffic light (not sure if this matters but seems like it might connect). After a light turned green I made a right turn and gunned it, everything went dead with no warning. No sputtering nothing, just cocked out (had electrical working). Fortunately, I was able to coast into a closed auto parts store (with no power steering that was fun). It at least gave enough room for the tow truck to bring it home. 

  • I checked fluids again at that time and all looked good.
  • Tried to start and just would not turn over. 
  • Yesterday replaced the ignition coil (which was ancient) and did not help. I saw this in this forum and the tow driver thought the same.
  • Taking off the air filter hosing I noticed a puff of white smoke when trying to start. I read that this could be from radiator leaking into carb. I check the radiator and half full (it was fine when it broke down and cooled). 
  • I checked the dipstick for oil and it looked normal and smelled normal (I am going to change oil this weekend to make sure it is fine). 
  • I looked around the carb and did not see anything out of the ordinary, but I did not do anything but a surface exam.
  • **I am hoping for some good news as I am worried this is NOT good**

Car info:

1973 vert. 351c (this was added in the 90s). I bought it in Jan 2020. 

I am very raw at working on the car. Learning, but it at times feels overwhelming and have had it taken to other to work on (trusted family or garages). I do have a friend helping me out as he has time. If any other info is needed please let me know and I can tell you what I know.

Any help or input would be great! 

John 

Winter Garden, Florida

 

Kenny nunez

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Pull the plugs and spin it over in case water entered the manifold.   If the cylinders are dry you may have a worn timing chain.     With your finger in the #1 hole bump the engine over and when you fell the compression then with a 1and 1/16” socket turn the engine and line  the “0” mark on the balancer with the pointer on the timing cover.  Remove the distributor cap and check which way the rotor is pointing in relation to the #1 terminal in the cap.

good luck

 

midlife

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A friend of mine had his 72 F100 truck all of a sudden stop running, and he had it pushed into an Autozone parking lot.  I went to help him, bringing tools and a spare Petronix I I had laying around.  We replaced the Petronix, as that is usually the cause, but still the car would not catch.  Power going to the coil, the engine would crank but not catch.  I offered that the coil was bad, and got a replacement, and the truck started right up. 

Your water level being down is a troubling sign.  Since your engine wouldn't turn over, I would surmise that water got into the combustion chambers and you're experiencing hydrolock. 

 
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First rule when it will not start. DO NOT START CHANGING PARTS. No reason to change the oil if not milky or smells of gas. If it is over filled you might have a bad fuel pump that is pumping gas into your crankcase.
Start out by checking if timing is right. TDC #1 piston up.

If timing right check to see if you have fuel to carb.

If fuel then you start checking ignition. I do not know what you have is still points and you remove the cap and you see big spark at the points and point burnt probably bad condenser. 

If you have aftermarket I have no idea where to start.
If you are in time, have spark and have fuel no reason it should not run.

Just randomly changing parts is not how you fix your ride. Trouble shoot it and replace what is bad.

 

jep1701

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1973 Mustang convertible with a Windsor V8. Bout in January 2020. Most of the interior is original and was repainted a few years ago.


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Thanks to suggestions. Taking not and will start looking at it all. 

David- The oil is about time for change anyway. And the ignition coil I took out was rusted and in bad shape. The can had a 351c dropped into it around the 90s during a rebuild back then from what we can tell. 

Thanks everyone. I made a list and will start going through it. 

 

droptop73

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Like David said, use the FAST rule... Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing.  Be systematic in your diagnosis. 

 
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