Project Elroy

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MooseStang

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 1, 2021
Messages
339
Reaction score
149
Location
Texas
My Car
72 Q-code Vert
72 L-code Vert
I'm starting a new thread to document all of the stuff for my 72 250ci 3sp toploader vert.
Being an "L" code, he's been named "Elroy".

Bought the car this past summer.
New 14" Cooper Cobras, installed valve stem seals, Pertronix I

Pretty solid overall, I'm currently in process of stripping down to bare metal to see what lies below.

Still need steering wheel, fan guard, rear seat boot retainer.
Plan to add header & dual exhaust & carb, idiot light tach upgrade. Needs center console radio bezel, clock cleaning.
 
Pics
 

Attachments

  • 20220904_150530.jpg
    20220904_150530.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 1
  • 20220916_203016.jpg
    20220916_203016.jpg
    3.2 MB · Views: 1
  • 20220904_150424.jpg
    20220904_150424.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 0
Stripping begins.
 

Attachments

  • 20221016_113521.jpg
    20221016_113521.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 1
  • 20221016_123141.jpg
    20221016_123141.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 0
  • 20221016_145205.jpg
    20221016_145205.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • 20221016_155023.jpg
    20221016_155023.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
Gonna get a new hood
 

Attachments

  • 20221106_164748.jpg
    20221106_164748.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 0
  • 20221106_152011.jpg
    20221106_152011.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • 20221106_143759.jpg
    20221106_143759.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 0
It's cleaning up nicely!

RockAuto has the molded upper hoses in stock now.
I ordered one off of Amazon. Should be in tomorrow. I will never, ever use one of those non-molded hoses again.
 

Attachments

  • 20221204_150423.jpg
    20221204_150423.jpg
    787.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 20221204_153014.jpg
    20221204_153014.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
Well, that's a mess! Is that the spring wire that's all rusted/rotted? I knew you were looking for a molded hose a while back. Glad you were able to find one.
 
Yep, spring wire. I flushed out the radiator pretty good, still need to do the rest of the system.
 
Some updates: steering wheel, pwr steering pump, radiator hoses, new hood, more paint removed
 

Attachments

  • 20230307_164919.jpg
    20230307_164919.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 1
  • 20230121_130049.jpg
    20230121_130049.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 1
  • 20230218_113947.jpg
    20230218_113947.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 1
  • 20221217_134152.jpg
    20221217_134152.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • 20230218_115015.jpg
    20230218_115015.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
Thanks. Still got a few things to do. I think my next task, beside paint removal, is to locate a suitable header that will work with my A/C, and locate a 2 barrel carb in the 300 to 350 cfm range.
 
Last edited:
The stripping looks great . What steps did you use to get the paint removed ?
To this point, I've only used the Bauer metal conditioner tool from Harbor Freight, with the 40 grit drum. I'll need to use another means for some of the more recessed areas.
 
I ordered one off of Amazon. Should be in tomorrow. I will never, ever use one of those non-molded hoses again.
Hi!

Re: the corroded inner spring, something I have found over the years re: why rust, scale, and corrosion occur in cooling systems is on account of the water used to mix with coolant concentrate.5+ years or so, as the mix of water to concentrate is correct, and the water does not contain hardness compounds. In many/most places tap water contains dissolved compounds, (Manganese, rock, Calcium, etc.). When hard water is used to mix into coolant concentrate, in time you will see scale begin to form inside the cooling system, and corrosion begins to take hold.

In order to prevent scaling and other water other issues I have been buying premixed coolant for the past few years. We do have a water softener for our entire house, and Reverse Osmosis water purification for drinking and cooking water. Thus, I could use our treated tap water at our home to mix with coolant concertrate. But, I prefer to use the premixed product, just because there is no guess work re: the mix, especially in the event I need to top off the coolant level (although that has been resolved via the use of overflow tanks. See the following YouTube videos if interested:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYzThkQ8qgQ

https://youtu.be/D7TvjP1FknE


Ciao!

Gil
 
Okay, another reply in this thread. I am glad you took photos of the 250 engine. My first car was a 69 Mustang, which came with a 250 engine, and no A/C/ My parents added an aftermarket ARA A/C system, which did a fine job. The axle ration was steep, likely 2.79:1 or so. Thus, acceleration off the line was not as exciting as a similar Mustang with a v-8 and/or lower rear axle gears. But, I never had an issue getting up to freeway speeds in L.A. traffic (or elsewhere), and on the open highway I was able to easily enough attain 90+ MPH (I rarely did that, usually kept the higher speeds to 70 MPH when conditions were good).

Despite wishing I had a v-8, the reality is the 250 was plenty powerful enough to get around, and it was very durable and reliable. More than once I ran the RPM in first gear (C4 automative tranny) past redline, to where the valves began to float, in an effort to see how far I could push things. Back then I did not have the same kind of appreciation for things like I have had in later years. Yet, not once did I have a problem with that engine.

I noticed an external ballast resister, (a la Mopar) is mounted to the valve cover retaining bolt. Did you do that to bypass the resistance wire? Just curious.
 
Back
Top