Project Improve handling

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It looks like a good list. If I had to choose between rear sway bar or traction bars I would go traction bars. Plus it's easier to add the sway bar later.

 
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It looks like a good list.  If I had to choose between rear sway bar or traction bars I would go traction bars.   Plus it's easier to add the sway bar later.
 Yeah, but traction bars look like crap on an otherwise stock car. I don't disagree that they do improve wheel hop issues, but not for cornering and that's what anti-sway bars are for, to stop body roll. Just my opinion, each to their own.

 

Bentworker

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On the rear 4 1/2 leafs.

There are a lot of cheap springs out there of unknown quality. The Scott Drake ones have to be imported because they are so inexpensive.

Both of the Maier brothers sell quality 4 1/2 rear leafs. Mike is Mikemaierinc.com His brother Charles has their Dads old shop Maierracing.com They have their leafs manufactured somewhere in the US for them. I think they are both sold as 1" drop springs, but they can make you stock height if you wish.

 

73pony

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If you are changing out the real leafs I did want to mention what Bentworker did above. They do offer leaf springs from those guys as well as the previously mentioned Detroit Eaton Spring with a 1" drop already in the spring eliminating the need for the lowering blocks.

 

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Thank you all for all the inputs

AND SPECIALLY GUIDING ME IN RIGHT DIRECTION.

NOW I HAVE ENOUGH MONIES LEFT TO DO Tranny swap to manual (T5 hopefully)

Got the project completed and the ride is just so much better.

This is what I did

Lowered Car

1.5" in front and 2" in rear (from Eaton springs...street ride firmness)

Chassis Connectors

Front and rear Sway bars

Rear traction control bars

New rims (from American Racing) and new tires

Thanks again

Rush



facebook photos hosting

 

73pony

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Looks good! The T5 swap isn't terrible. I did it on mine last winter. I posted a thread on it somewhere on here.

 

Otto

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I am HUGE on handling and braking. These two aspects of the car determine how much power you will actually be able to use. With that said, quality will cost some money, for the most part. I drive on horrible roads which require things from the suspension, as opposed to a track car. My mentality is build it for what you will do most with it. In my case it's spirited driving on actual roads. Here is my set up

Front:

Moog R series upper and lower arms, solid strut rod, Scott Drake 1" lowering coils w/ 3/4 urethane spacer, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, 1 1/8 sway bar, black rock 997 15x7 wheels, bfGoodrich 235/60-15 tires

Rear:

Scott Drake 5 leaf regular eye springs, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, Energy suspension urethane bushing kit, Total Control Products 3/4 adjustable rear sway bar, Traction Master bars, black rock 997 15/8 wheels, bfgoodrich 255/60-15 tires

Front brakes:

SSBC slotted stock replacement rotors with SSBC semi metallic pads, new stock replacement calipers from NPD, stainless braided flex hoses with matching rear hose (NPD), stainless custom bent hard lines, SSBC adjustable proportioning valve/distribution block, STOCK replacement master cylinder, GPS brand new 9" power booster

Rear Brakes:

SSBC A111-2 disc brake kit with slotted rotors, custom bent hard lines, Inline Tube stainless steel brake cable (inner cable on short piece 2 1/2" longer to accommodate brake kit)

I also installed Tim Man Fabrications sub frame connectors which ended up working perfectly with the Traction Master bars. If you decide to go this route, call Chuck at Traction Master and let him know for the frame mount, you only need the right angle tab. Otherwise he will weld on a longer base plate to the front mount. This mounts directly to the back side of the subframes. If you use different rear springs, hold off on the order of the traction bars until the springs are installed and have settled. The ride height will determine where the bars are mounted due to their need to sit parallel to the ground to work properly. From this point, you will need to measure for custom length traction bars or just take it to his shop in Burbank and he can help you out with the length needed.

I did quite of bit of experimenting, talking to companies and spending on different parts until I found what works for my purpose, which is a more urban based performance in a grand touring style car. We can still take it on the track and hold our own though. I did not go cheap but I did not buy something expensive or fancy because it's what the cool kids are using. Everything I have done is practical and is meant to be put on a car that will be driven with fun, performance and safety in mind. I can list the parts I have tried and did not like for my build if you would like. I am also more than happy to answer any questions you might have. I will post some pictures in a bit. Hope this helps.

 

Otto

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error

 
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Otto

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I took this picture just before installing the traction bars, which is why you cant see them. This is my ride height after the suspension settled.

 
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