I am HUGE on handling and braking. These two aspects of the car determine how much power you will actually be able to use. With that said, quality will cost some money, for the most part. I drive on horrible roads which require things from the suspension, as opposed to a track car. My mentality is build it for what you will do most with it. In my case it's spirited driving on actual roads. Here is my set up
Front:
Moog R series upper and lower arms, solid strut rod, Scott Drake 1" lowering coils w/ 3/4 urethane spacer, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, 1 1/8 sway bar, black rock 997 15x7 wheels, bfGoodrich 235/60-15 tires
Rear:
Scott Drake 5 leaf regular eye springs, QA1 non-adjustable shocks, Energy suspension urethane bushing kit, Total Control Products 3/4 adjustable rear sway bar, Traction Master bars, black rock 997 15/8 wheels, bfgoodrich 255/60-15 tires
Front brakes:
SSBC slotted stock replacement rotors with SSBC semi metallic pads, new stock replacement calipers from NPD, stainless braided flex hoses with matching rear hose (NPD), stainless custom bent hard lines, SSBC adjustable proportioning valve/distribution block, STOCK replacement master cylinder, GPS brand new 9" power booster
Rear Brakes:
SSBC A111-2 disc brake kit with slotted rotors, custom bent hard lines, Inline Tube stainless steel brake cable (inner cable on short piece 2 1/2" longer to accommodate brake kit)
I also installed Tim Man Fabrications sub frame connectors which ended up working perfectly with the Traction Master bars. If you decide to go this route, call Chuck at Traction Master and let him know for the frame mount, you only need the right angle tab. Otherwise he will weld on a longer base plate to the front mount. This mounts directly to the back side of the subframes. If you use different rear springs, hold off on the order of the traction bars until the springs are installed and have settled. The ride height will determine where the bars are mounted due to their need to sit parallel to the ground to work properly. From this point, you will need to measure for custom length traction bars or just take it to his shop in Burbank and he can help you out with the length needed.
I did quite of bit of experimenting, talking to companies and spending on different parts until I found what works for my purpose, which is a more urban based performance in a grand touring style car. We can still take it on the track and hold our own though. I did not go cheap but I did not buy something expensive or fancy because it's what the cool kids are using. Everything I have done is practical and is meant to be put on a car that will be driven with fun, performance and safety in mind. I can list the parts I have tried and did not like for my build if you would like. I am also more than happy to answer any questions you might have. I will post some pictures in a bit. Hope this helps.