pull engine and trans as a unit?

scgamecock

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Trying to decide if I should leave the engine and 4 speed together when i pull it out or remove trans first.  Seems like it would be easier to pull the trans while the motor is cradled in the motor mounts instead of trying to separate it while the motor is attached to the hoist.  Thoughts on best way?

 

Stanglover

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Trying to decide if I should leave the engine and 4 speed together when i pull it out or remove trans first.  Seems like it would be easier to pull the trans while the motor is cradled in the motor mounts instead of trying to separate it while the motor is attached to the hoist.  Thoughts on best way?
 I pulled mine twice now together and put it back in together. If you don't have a big enough hoist, like a 2 ton min. you might find a smaller one a bit of a hassle. The last time I did mine, I only had a 1 ton hoist available and I needed to remove the front bumper and grill so it could get in close enough. The beam was too short in other words. Actually to avoid damage to the bumper, I would remove it first anyway. Just make life easier.

An engine leveler is a great tool to have on hand as well, especially to put it back in. I didn't have one and it was a bit harder to get the trans in. I used a low profile 1.5 ton jack under the tailstock to lift as the motor was lowered. Taking it out is far easier. You just need everything out of the way and I do mean everything right to the rad support. DON'T forget to plug your tailstock or your oil will pour out!!!

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

 
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scgamecock

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Trying to decide if I should leave the engine and 4 speed together when i pull it out or remove trans first.  Seems like it would be easier to pull the trans while the motor is cradled in the motor mounts instead of trying to separate it while the motor is attached to the hoist.  Thoughts on best way?
 I pulled mine twice now together and put it back in together. If you don't have a big enough hoist, like a 2 ton min. you might find a smaller one a bit of a hassle. The last time I did mine, I only had a 1 ton hoist available and I needed to remove the front bumper and grill so it could get in close enough. The beam was too short in other words. Actually to avoid damage to the bumper, I would remove it first anyway. Just make life easier.

An engine leveler is a great tool to have on hand as well, especially to put it back in. I didn't have one and it was a bit harder to get the trans in. I used a low profile 1.5 ton jack under the tailstock to lift as the motor was lowered. Taking it out is far easier. You just need everything out of the way and I do mean everything right to the rad support. DON'T forget to plug your tailstock or your oil will pour out!!!

Hope that helps,

Geoff.
  Thanks Geoff this does help.  I like how you used the 2x to rest the motor on.  That will make it easier to pull the trans apart from the motor.  I was trying to figure out the best way to support it after pulling the whole unit.

 

tony-muscle

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I am one of the ones taking it out and putting it it in two steps. Engine first and trans second. I feel more comfortable doing it in two steps. I think it is a matter of personal taste and comfort level.

In my case i didnt have to remove the rad support. I removed the radiator because.it was part of the plan to replace it.

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Don C

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Both at the same time, out and in. I find it easier to install the transmission to the engine with them out.

 
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I am also a fan of pulling them separate. I always have the grease plug fall out and grease is everywhere from tail shaft.

I like to cut heads off two long bolts to put in the bottom two bolt holes on the transmission. That allows you do slide it back away from pilot bushing and clutch and fork and it not drop down. Of course shifter off and engine tipped to clear the floor. Same going back in you get it on the bolts with it in first gear and you slide it on the bolts into the throw out bearing, clutch disc and pilot bushing. Rotate the tail shaft to get the clutch aligned. You will need an alignment plug for the disc to flywheel. You can get a regular bearing to go in the end of the crank and take the bronze out.

Also indicate the bell housing while you have it on the bench and adjust bell housing square if needed.

The factory slid them in as a unit but had special tilts to get it just right going in.

You should also pull the drain plug out of the block to get a little more coolant out always a mess also.

A leveler like stated is a big PIA saver.

While you have it out change all the core plugs they tend to rust out.

Now the snowball gets bigger, lol.

 

Stanglover

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Trying to decide if I should leave the engine and 4 speed together when i pull it out or remove trans first.  Seems like it would be easier to pull the trans while the motor is cradled in the motor mounts instead of trying to separate it while the motor is attached to the hoist.  Thoughts on best way?
 I pulled mine twice now together and put it back in together. If you don't have a big enough hoist, like a 2 ton min. you might find a smaller one a bit of a hassle. The last time I did mine, I only had a 1 ton hoist available and I needed to remove the front bumper and grill so it could get in close enough. The beam was too short in other words. Actually to avoid damage to the bumper, I would remove it first anyway. Just make life easier.

An engine leveler is a great tool to have on hand as well, especially to put it back in. I didn't have one and it was a bit harder to get the trans in. I used a low profile 1.5 ton jack under the tailstock to lift as the motor was lowered. Taking it out is far easier. You just need everything out of the way and I do mean everything right to the rad support. DON'T forget to plug your tailstock or your oil will pour out!!!

Hope that helps,

Geoff.
  Thanks Geoff this does help.  I like how you used the 2x to rest the motor on.  That will make it easier to pull the trans apart from the motor.  I was trying to figure out the best way to support it after pulling the whole unit.
 The 2X 10, I just happened to have it so I used it to set in on the frame of the hoist. Take the box of the bell housing first, 4 bolts, weighs about 100 lbs, then the bell housing. Tie a strap around the shift linkages as well. On the tailstock I use a plug, bought a set from NPD, but I only need the one. Wish they could be bought separately. To stop it falling out, wrap it good with electrical tape around the tailstock.

To be clear, you're not removing the rad support, just the rad itself, The less that's likely to get damaged the better.

I have installed the box in the car but only when I changed the clutch. It can be a pain to line up. Another thing you need is a clutch alignment tool to make sure the clutch disc is dead center or the input shaft won't go in. Tip, if it is out just a hair, a sharp bang on the clutch fork will usually release the disc enough for the shaft to go in. Worked for me anyhow.

 Geoff.

 
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Stanglover

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I am one of the ones taking it out and putting it it in two steps. Engine first and trans second. I feel more comfortable doing it in two steps. I think it is a matter of personal taste and comfort level.

In my case i didnt have to remove the rad support. I removed the radiator because.it was part of the plan to replace it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Tony, a small misunderstanding, I didn't say remove the rad support...……. or did I!! No just re-read the first reply. I said up to the rad support, so just the rad and anything else in the way was my meaning.

 
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Stanglover

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I am also a fan of pulling them separate. I always have the grease plug fall out and grease is everywhere from tail shaft.

I like to cut heads off two long bolts to put in the bottom two bolt holes on the transmission. That allows you do slide it back away from pilot bushing and clutch and fork and it not drop down. Of course shifter off and engine tipped to clear the floor. Same going back in you get it on the bolts with it in first gear and you slide it on the bolts into the throw out bearing, clutch disc and pilot bushing. Rotate the tail shaft to get the clutch aligned. You will need an alignment plug for the disc to flywheel. You can get a regular bearing to go in the end of the crank and take the bronze out.

Also indicate the bell housing while you have it on the bench and adjust bell housing square if needed.

The factory slid them in as a unit but had special tilts to get it just right going in.

You should also pull the drain plug out of the block to get a little more coolant out always a mess also.

A leveler like stated is a big PIA saver.

While you have it out change all the core plugs they tend to rust out.

Now the snowball gets bigger, lol.
 Snow ball gets bigger, how true!!

Good post David.

 

72 cougar

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Trying to decide if I should leave the engine and 4 speed together when i pull it out or remove trans first.  Seems like it would be easier to pull the trans while the motor is cradled in the motor mounts instead of trying to separate it while the motor is attached to the hoist.  Thoughts on best way?
tranny out. doesn't balance well with in and takes more room to tip and move motor. It can be done , but not my preference.

 

tony-muscle

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I am also a fan of pulling them separate. I always have the grease plug fall out and grease is everywhere from tail shaft.

I like to cut heads off two long bolts to put in the bottom two bolt holes on the transmission. That allows you do slide it back away from pilot bushing and clutch and fork and it not drop down. Of course shifter off and engine tipped to clear the floor. Same going back in you get it on the bolts with it in first gear and you slide it on the bolts into the throw out bearing, clutch disc and pilot bushing. Rotate the tail shaft to get the clutch aligned. You will need an alignment plug for the disc to flywheel. You can get a regular bearing to go in the end of the crank and take the bronze out.

Also indicate the bell housing while you have it on the bench and adjust bell housing square if needed.

The factory slid them in as a unit but had special tilts to get it just right going in.

You should also pull the drain plug out of the block to get a little more coolant out always a mess also.

A leveler like stated is a big PIA saver.

While you have it out change all the core plugs they tend to rust out.

Now the snowball gets bigger, lol.
 Snow ball gets bigger, how true!!

Good post David.
May as well change all the internals and upgrade to a stroker...lol

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73pony

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Pull it as one unit and put it back that way. So much easier.

 

Hemikiller

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I pull and install as a unit. Saves a lot of work under the car. Have a friend help.

I also install just like Ford did, every accessory I can put on it will be on it. Less time leaning over the fender straining my back. When the engine goes in, it's wired, timed and ready to fire.

 

NOT A T5

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I've done it both ways but doing it together as one unit is easiest in my opinion!

 

Mister 4x4

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I suppose it depends on the job and tools at my disposal.  If the engine and tranny both need to come out (I have no idea why I would ever need to do that again, though), and I didn't have a lift, then I suppose pulling/reinstalling both as a unit might be OK to do... with the right hoist and auxiliary tools, of course.

However, if it just the engine or transmission needing attention, I'd pull 'em separately.  Automatics are a no-brainer - just leave it in the car with the driveshaft still engaged.  Manuals can be a bit trickier lining up the clutch pack and input shaft, so I can see where it would be a time and hassle saver going back in as a single unit.

I'd be leery doing it with all of the accessories bolt-up, though - probably just because I've not really done a lot of engine swaps before.

Good luck either way!

 

turtle5353

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I usually pull my motor and trans together. But that depends if I’m doing it at my garage or down at my buddy’s place.  I don’t have a lift so I pull everything together at my shop.  A lot less to mess with laying on your back. If I’m at my buddy’s garage that has a lift, I usually just pull the motor. Really easy to fit trans and motor together standing under the the lift. 





density of alcl3

 
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scgamecock

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I dont necessarily need to pull the transmission but I am going to so I can clean and detail everything.  There is 40 years of road grime caked on the bottom of the car.  I want everything nice and clean and painted when it goes back in.

 

turtle5353

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I dont necessarily need to pull the transmission but I am going to so I can clean and detail everything.  There is 40 years of road grime caked on the bottom of the car.  I want everything nice and clean and painted when it goes back in.
If you are going to pull both anyway, then go ahead and pull them together. Its a no-brainer.  And much easier.

 
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