Drag. Sorry your AOD experience was not more akin to ours. That is not to say we did not have issues. All but one were very minor. In fact, one issue I "thought" I would have never was - I am actually using my original Auto Tranny shifter with the AOD. Yep, you read that correctly. If behaves a little different in the "1" and "2" positions on the shifter than with the original C4, but it turned out to be a good thing I left it in place as opposed to using an aftermarket shifter.
As for the worst thing that happened. The rebuilder, a national brand that will remain unnamed, used a solid pin for the shift shaft retaining pin. That pin is supposed to be an easy to remove rolled pin. Not a solid pin staked in deeply and that can't be removed. The reason I needed to remove that pin was so I could re-orient the Shift Shaft linkage arm, as they showed how to do in their own customer support videos. Well, because they used a solid pin and staked it in so deeply I could remove it, my project was in jeopardy. I ended up getting a carbide tipped hollow reamer to cut away at some of the aluminum case surrounding the solid pin they drive into the case, until I had enough of their pin exposed, Then I was able to grab it and pull it out.
Here is a video showing how we had cut into the case to remove the pin ("
Shift Linkage Info Pin Removal"). The good parts are at cutting @ 06:40 mm:ss & Pin Installation @ 10:50 mm:ss
https://youtu.be/ank8xcr9ig4
The rebuilder did end up providing me some help for the added labor, and the cost of the hollow reamer I had to buy to fix the problem they caused.
I had considered a later AOD version, but did not want to have to deal with working with an electronic control unit to help it perform its shifting. There are some folks who make such aftermarket control units. I think that if I were to do the AOD swap again I might just get a later AODE or better yet a 4R70W tranny, and do all the adjustments from the controller. Those controller are costly, but rather than having to deal with adjusting the Throttle Pressure on the AOD I think that may have been a better choice. No regrets, our AOD is fine. But, if you end up finding it worth moving from your current AOD into something a bit easier to work with the 4R70W may be a good choice. Here is one of the site that offers control units for those transmissions:
https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml
If you do keep the AOD, which is still a fine choice, be sure to adjust the Throttle Valve Pressure or you will likely end up with a toasted tranny due to clutch pack failure. If you have not seen how to make that adjustment I have a few videos showing how I did it, did it again, and did it yet again. Why did I do it over? The first setting was to factory spec. But the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts occurred earlier than I wanted, and I also wanted a firmer shift. So, I increased the Throttle Valve Pressure from 35 PSI to I think 37 PSI, and it helped. I later adjusted it to I think 39 PSI or so, which is where I left it. "Too much" pressure is not going to hurt the clutch packs. It is when the pressure is too low that you get into trouble. Here are my AOD Throttle Valve Pressure adjustment videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QncIKQTvNo
In this video I show how to connect the oil pressure gauge to the AOD test pressure port, and how to adjust the Throttle Pressure. In the video description I cover how to fabricate the AOD Throttle Valve Pressure adjusting gauge (0.275" thick). That adjusting gauge tool is critical to have. They can be purchased also, and in the YouTube description I provide the phone number and part # to order one. Also, in this video I show how the original shifter behaves with the AOD with detent positions, and gears, under different conditions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYIAqqYUKNo
Finally, I have another ADO Throttle Valve Pressure setting video where I check what another person suggestged I verify. I had been setting my Throttle Valve Pressures in Park. The factory manual says to do it in Neutral. I was asked if Park and Neutral have different pressures, so I check and found that there4 is a slight difference in pressures in Park and Neutral. Not enough to get me into trouble, but enough to make note of it. Here is that link, which frankly I feel is well worth while watching, and reading the info in the description:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hZJEnGCPvY
