Rag joint question

[vintageman]

So, I knew I should have changed my rag joint out prior to installing the gearbox but in a rush, I didn't. Do I have to drop/remove the steering column or remove the gearbox to install the new rag joint? I have read that you can install it with the gearbox and column in place and the the column will kind of collapse some to give you space to install the rag joint but looks like mine doesn't want to move any inward to give me that space. Any assistance would be appreciated and thanks. 

Tom

 

[Don C]

You don't try to move the column, just the shaft. The column is held in place with a clamp at the base of the column, inside against the firewall and a bracket under the dash. The shaft may not be easy to move, due to years of corrosion. The problem with pushing the shaft up (collapsing it) is getting it to extend back out into the rag joint, not much working space. I would loosen the column and slide the column up enough to get the rag joint replaced, much easier than trying to deal with dropping the box.

 

[vintageman]

Thanks Don, yea, I loosened the clamp inside and the firewall bolts just now and was able to convince it to give me enough room to get the rag joint out. Now I guess I have to grind off the ends of the studs so that I can install the new dorman joint from the help section. It's about 100 degrees out right now, so taking this in small steps, gotta love Georgia weather and not having a closed in garage. Thanks for the advice,

Tom

 

[vintageman]

Decided that the spines inside didn't look to be in the greatest of condition and the pins are a pain in the ____ to press out, ordered a new assembly from OMS instead, hopefully should be here in a few days.

67-73 STEERING SHAFT COUPLER, ORIGINAL STYLE

Item #C7OZ-3A525-ORG

Totally worth the $40 in my opinion as it is raining like a son of a gun this weekend and with just a carport to work under, I would rather wait until its not as bad outside. Thanks for everything guys.

Tom

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Decided that the spines inside didn't look to be in the greatest of condition and the pins are a pain in the ____ to press out, ordered a new assembly from OMS instead, hopefully should be here in a few days. 

67-73 STEERING SHAFT COUPLER, ORIGINAL STYLE

Item #C7OZ-3A525-ORG

Totally worth the $40 in my opinion as it is raining like a son of a gun this weekend and with just a carport to work under, I would rather wait until its not as bad outside. Thanks for everything guys.

Tom

Is your column a tilt? I think they use a different coupler? Might be wrong I am a lot, lol.

 

[Don C]

You're correct, David, the tilt column coupler is different, and I don't believe it is reproduced. The only option with it is to replace the rubber disk.

 

[vintageman]

Thanks for the input guys, no mine is not a tilt column. The part I listed and ordered looks just like the one that I have now. Tracking already says OMS has it in the mail, great service and price from OMS.

Tom

 

[Don C]

+1 on good service from OMS.

 

[73pony]

I hope it is not the Scott Drake one. It doesn’t work. The pins are too short.

 

[73429mach]

+1 on good service from OMS.

Agree on the great service from Don at OMS. He goes above and beyond! Ryan

 

[NOT A T5]

+1 on that!

 

[vintageman]

Yep, I just received the new one in the mail and guess what, it's the Scott Drake one with the pins that are too short. I was specifically looking to avoid the SD one as I have read that the pins are too short and the linked part and description did not say Scott Drake, figured I was good, what a let-down when I opened the package. Well, I will see what I can do this weekend and report back here.

Tom

 

[73pony]

I think Rock Auto sells a Lars one. The pins are the right length but they are both the thinner pins. Not optimal but better than the pins being too short.

Here is a link

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1972,mustang,5.8l+351cid+v8,1132861,steering,steering+coupler,7418

 

[vintageman]

Thanks 73pony, I was just on RockAuto's site, they have a Lars 201 and a 202 listed. My car is a 73 but the steering box came out of a 72. Both are non-tilt columns, is there any way to determine which one I need, i.e, Lars 201 or the 202? Thanks for any assistance.

Tom

 

[73pony]

When I did mine I counted the splines and ordered the 201 as mine was 31 spline with the flat, not the full round with 36 splines. mine was a 73 box and column.

 

[vintageman]

Thanks, looking at mine, it looks to have a lot of the splines worn off, hard to tell if there is/was ever an actual flat spot or not. One area feels completely flat but has witness marks that look like they would have been splines. I guess I will try to count the actual splines on the gearbox. I have looked on the gearbox for any markings to help identify it and do not see any. I do know that from left to right lock, it is 4 full turns and turning back 2 full turns from lock, the larger of the rag joint pins is at the 12:00 position as it should be. Never thought that something as simple as this would be such a headache. Thanks and more to follow.

Tom

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Can you take a picture of what you are saying about the pins are too short? The pins do not do anything unless the rubber breaks and they are there so you do not loose all steering. They would not have to stick out much to hit and connect with the other side.

I would think Drake would have gotten a law suit by now if they were not capable of working in a safety related item.

I ground mine off with zip wheel and use drive pin punch and just knocked the pins out. Put the triangle metal washers on the new Dorman rag joint and bolted it all back in. Been in nearly 3 years now no issues.

I do not have a great picture and this is a tilt column out of a 73. I also put new turn signal switch in and ignition key.

 

[Stanglover]

There should be a flat. The Lares 201 is the correct one. The pins are really a safety thing, but I do believe Ford and may be others, used one larger pin for quick assembly on the line, hard to screw-up that way!! For sure the SD pins are totally useless as they do not engage the slots on the column plate. You do need to make sure the sector shaft is centered before putting it in. It will fit with the through bolt head uppermost looking down on it.

I don't have a pic of this, but maybe this one of the spline on the input shaft will help.

Geoff.

 

[vintageman]

Thanks everyone, I just went out and verified that there is a flat portion on the gearbox and the flat portion is facing up. I had centered it prior to taking off the old rag joint and the larger pin was at 12:00 and smaller at 6, so the steering should be centered as it sits now. @David, I sat the old rag joint next to the SD and the SD pins (both large and small pins) are about 1/4 inch shorter than the original, honestly I don't know if that makes a difference or not but the pins that came with the Dorman kit are the same length as my old rag joint. Good to hear that you can drive the pins out, maybe if the Lars 201 doesn't have the correct diameter pins (I read here that they were both the small pins), I will drive one out and use the bolt in pins that came with my Dorman part. I would have just rebuilt my old one but when I took it off, most of the splines just kinda disintegrated. But the good thing is, after this, I will have more extra parts laying around if I ever need them. And thanks for the pictures, they help alot.

Thank everyone, more to follow

Tom