Rag joint question

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Thanks everyone, I just went out and verified that there is a flat portion on the gearbox and the flat portion is facing up. I had centered it prior to taking off the old rag joint and the larger pin was at 12:00 and smaller at 6, so the steering should be centered as it sits now.  @David, I sat the old rag joint next to the SD and the SD pins (both large and small pins) are about 1/4 inch shorter than the original, honestly I don't know if that makes a difference or not but the pins that came with the Dorman kit are the same length as my old rag joint. Good to hear that you can drive the pins out, maybe if the Lars 201 doesn't have the correct diameter pins (I read here that they were both the small pins), I will drive one out and use the bolt in pins that came with my Dorman part.  I would have just rebuilt my old one but when I took it off, most of the splines just kinda disintegrated. But the good thing is, after this, I will have more extra parts laying around if I ever need them. And thanks for the pictures, they help alot.

Thank everyone, more to follow

Tom
 You don't need to alter any pins on the Lares 201. They do not do the steering!! just a safety thing. As mentioned before, physically make sure the input shaft is centered by turning the box all the way from lock to lock, count the turns, then go back half way. When you put the coupler on the input shaft, the through bolt head should be uppermost. There is also a plate that goes between the mounting bolts and over the through bolt on the Lares, not sure what the intent is but it would stop the through bolt from falling out should it come loose. No idea really, but that's just what I came up with for a reason!! The "plate" could also be installed underneath I guess. Hope this crappy pic shows what I mean.

Geoff



 
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Thanks Geoff, I ordered the 201 and it will be here Monday. I do have everything lined up waiting to install now, lock to lock and halfway back and the bolt head will be uppermost when installed. More to follow when installed on hopefully Monday.

Tom

 
+1 on not needing different size pins. I believe that was an assembly line thing so the steering wheel didn't wind up upside down.

You might want to look at this thread, interesting solution.

 
+1 on not needing different size pins. I believe that was an assembly line thing so the steering wheel didn't wind up upside down.

You might want to look at this thread, interesting solution.
Don, that's the way I see it too, assembly line thing.

Thread? what thread! not attached.

 
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Thanks Geoff, I ordered the 201 and it will be here Monday. I do have everything lined up waiting to install now, lock to lock and halfway back and the bolt  head will be uppermost when installed.  More to follow when installed on hopefully Monday.

Tom
Sounds great Tom. 

To be honest, I'm not really sure why the Lares 201 has that plate connecting across between the mounting bolts, but it seems to work just fine. I've had zero issues with mine. 

Good luck and enjoy,

Geoff.

PS. Tip, do the bolt up before trying to attach the plate to the mount bolts. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious.

 
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Ah, that thread! I remember it well after re-reading it. Seems like what goes around, comes around...…. again.

Recently, I authored a thread on rebuilding a Saginaw 800 PS SPA-T box. Happy to say that the rebuild is working just fine. However, I did not bother to modify the appropriate "pin" with a piece of tube as our friend did and describe in the thread Don linked. To be honest, I just plain forgot about it and have no worries or concerns about it either. I would say though, that if it makes a person 'happy', do it, add the piece of tubing. It certainly would make installing it the correct way for the steering wheel easier provided one added it to the correct pin in the first place

Geoff.

 
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Yes, I had seen and read that thread before that is probably the main concern I had when I saw pins of shorter/smaller diameter sizes. Well the Lares 201 will be here Monday, I will install it and then put that issue to bed and move onto the next. Thanks all.

Tom

 
Yes, I had seen and read that thread before that is probably the main concern I had when I saw pins of shorter/smaller diameter sizes. Well the Lares 201 will be here Monday, I will install it and then put that issue to bed and move onto the next. Thanks all.

Tom
As with others I'm sure, happy to help.

Geoff.

 
Yes, I had seen and read that thread before that is probably the main concern I had when I saw pins of shorter/smaller diameter sizes. Well the Lares 201 will be here Monday, I will install it and then put that issue to bed and move onto the next. Thanks all.

Tom
Bed hopping, eh?  You sure you got the right forum? :whistling: ::devil::

 
Yes, I had seen and read that thread before that is probably the main concern I had when I saw pins of shorter/smaller diameter sizes. Well the Lares 201 will be here Monday, I will install it and then put that issue to bed and move onto the next. Thanks all.

Tom
Bed hopping, eh?  You sure you got the right forum? :whistling: ::devil::
lollerz  Very nice Midlife, I guess I need to start watching what I say around here. 

Well, I got the new one installed, went on very easy and everything lined up properly.  Hopefully only one last question on this, tightening up the bolts causes the rubber disk to flex, how tight should these bolts be and how much flex is ok? Thanks all, your advice and assistance has been a huge help.

Tom

 
Yes, I had seen and read that thread before that is probably the main concern I had when I saw pins of shorter/smaller diameter sizes. Well the Lares 201 will be here Monday, I will install it and then put that issue to bed and move onto the next. Thanks all.

Tom
Bed hopping, eh?  You sure you got the right forum? :whistling: ::devil::
lollerz  Very nice Midlife, I guess I need to start watching what I say around here. 

Well, I got the new one installed, went on very easy and everything lined up properly.  Hopefully only one last question on this, tightening up the bolts causes the rubber disk to flex, how tight should these bolts be and how much flex is ok? Thanks all, your advice and assistance has been a huge help.

Tom
Tom, the nuts are Nylocks (if that's how to spell it), but I tightened mine all the way with no issues. I guess the rubbers are meant to flex some. The original did not have anything like that metal brace the Lares 201 has. I kinda wondered why it was there other than extra safety. Also I'm sure this joint is used on many other vehicles so who knows. Probably could ask Lares why it's there at all.

Geoff.

 
One detail I thought was odd. Why worry about there the steering box is turned? The steering wheel and shaft can be turned in any position and does not matter where the steering box is clocked. I had steering wheel off and just put it back on in correct position to align the horn ring.

 
One detail I thought was odd. Why worry about there the steering box is turned? The steering wheel and shaft can be turned in any position and does not matter where the steering box is clocked. I had steering wheel off and just put it back on in correct position to align the horn ring.
I believe if not clocked correctly or at least close the blinker cancel will not work properly. Ask me how I know.

 
One detail I thought was odd. Why worry about there the steering box is turned? The steering wheel and shaft can be turned in any position and does not matter where the steering box is clocked. I had steering wheel off and just put it back on in correct position to align the horn ring.
 I see what you mean as long as the pitman arm is correct and the wheels are straight ahead, the box should be centered. If the steering wheel is off a few degrees, then re-installing it might work, however is not the best way to re-center the steering wheel by doing a proper alignment and adjust the tie rods? 

Geoff.

 
If the box isn't centered the steering wheel will turn further in one direction than the other. Or, one side would engage the stop and the other direction wouldn't.

 
If the box isn't centered the steering wheel will turn further in one direction than the other. Or, one side would engage the stop and the other direction wouldn't.
Agreed. You'd be 180 deg off. That's why the Ford pins have one larger than the other.

However, if the box is off center when connected to the column, the pitman arm will also be off center therefore when the drag link is connected, the front wheels will be pointing one way or the other. If the front wheels are straight ahead and the box is off center, then surely the pitman arm has been installed on the wrong splines, if that's even possible. I always mark the box and the pitman so I know it's correct.

The best way to prevent this is simply to make sure it is all centered and everything lines up BEFORE attempting to install the box to the frame, an once of prevention!!

Geoff.

 
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