Thank you all very much, different group of people here and its refreshing!
I went the explorer way and like you all was sick of a rusted MC with gunky fluid all the time. Nothing wrong with drum on the rear I just wanted to improve everything and 4 wheel disc just sounded ---hot. Ok I admit Ims a gearhead.
I looked online at the flange bolt patterns of ford axles and low and behold the explorer was so clos I had to try and it went off great.
I left the metering blocks in and went to the 2000 V6 mc which is aluminum with a plastic resivoir(which I forund out is for safety "ease of checking level") and the modulation is perfect. I use the same setup on the eleanor cars I build with no metering block and hydraboost with the saginaw PS pumps and with a simple adjustable valve on the rear line set at 50%. I use slotted and drilled rotors on those kits for the road race look.
Both the mustang and exploder MC are Aluminum and for 4 wheel disc so no residual valves are needed and the pedal is always up under your chin.
An easy alternative is to call Currie enterprises in calfornia and they sell the backingplate, loaded with new parking brake shoes installed and the attaching bolts for the flange for about 100 buck sper side. This is pretty cheap if you cnat find a vehicle in the junkyard or dont have time to hunt there. New rotors and calipers can be gotten at rockauto or any parts store..
If I can help please dont hesitate to ask
Joe
Post: #10RE: What should I do about my brakes?
If you fellas are willing to humor me let me share what i did. This fits the 9" flanges dont know about the 8".
Go to pull a part and find a 98-2006 explorer. remove the axles and get the backing plates calipers and cables.
the plates are the same measurement up and down but front to back are .125 longer. I take my die grinder and deburr bit and slot the front of the back holes and back of the front holes and BOLT IT IN. No poop that is it. The discs are hat style and has a parking brake shoe setup inside that work great. Splice the cable, you will have to adapt the brake lines to the hoses but the hoses are standard 3/16 npt thread size.
so retain your lines up to where it goes to the drums, cut and reflare. Use 2 right side 2000 exploder rear brake hoses to connect the calipers. May hit smaller than 15" rims.
Use a 2000 v6 mustang master cylinder. its for 4 wheel disc and will never rust, fits same area as original and again you will have to flare 2 lines to send it to the block or use 2 unions.
your car will stop like never before....lotta work but if you are already doing brake stuff why not...
This is just my approach just trying to help if you think its stupid or too much work or dont believe that is all ok by me friends.
look at some of my pics and you will see how it looks on the car its in my library.
http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/Joepersad1/library/
Thank you for sharing pics and advice, very nice car.
Greetings from Belgium,
Eddy
Cant take credit for spotting the windows, my big brother spotted the similiarity when he was hunting for intermittent wiper relays from those trucks.
Roller cam 355C, roller rockers, Edelbrock Alum. heads MassfloEFI sequential port injection, PW, AC, PS, Power 4 wheel Disc, Built my own Ram AIr housing to fit massflo throttlebody, Power door locks, Holmelink Mirror, 4R70W 4 spd auto w/ lockup, TCI rear suspension with coil overs, 3.70 9" true trac posi, Helical strut rod bushings, roller front spring perches, Sound deadner entire cabin, Speedhut Electric gauges including custom inverted ones for the tripod under ac vents, Car was a strip to the guts wiring and all resto, HID headlights, Sequential LED tail lights, and a bunch of other little things like electric remote trunk relaease that worked with my alarm keyfob and had a dash mounted button. Automatic headlights(slick)...lotsa work but fun. This is the car that i developed my 4R70W crossmember install kit for..
