Repairing cracks in Console

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Omie01

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Does anybody have a good method for repairing cracks in the full consoles? I also have to build up one of the mounting screw holes. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!

 
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Omie01, it's been talked about before, but I can help. Now, I have extensive experience hand welding plastics and for what you need, the equipment is far too expensive to be worthwhile. However, as these consoles are made from ABS plastic, that material can be glued with plumber ABS cement. Personally, I would buy an 80 watt (at least) soldering iron with a 1/4" or wider, flat tip, or you could file the tip on one side to flatten it and remove the "tinning". Using this from the  back side, you can use small strips of ABS pipe for instance as as filler and strengthener to "weld" the part back together. It's a bit crude for sure, but it will work. Some practice would be a good idea so you get the hang of it. I say to do the repairs from the back side due to the stippling on the outside that is very hard to duplicate. The method is to use the iron to stitch the cracked part, then go over again with the filler strip and work it all together.

Hope that helps.

Just thought of this, you can buy 12"x12" sheets of ABS on Amazon or from McMaster & Carr if needed.

 
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Omie01, it's been talked about before, but I can help. Now, I have extensive experience hand welding plastics and for what you need, the equipment is far too expensive to be worthwhile. However, as these consoles are made from ABS plastic, that material can be glued with plumber ABS cement. Personally, I would buy an 80 watt (at least) soldering iron with a 1/4" or wider, flat tip, or you could file the tip on one side to flatten it and remove the "tinning". Using this from the  back side, you can use small strips of ABS pipe for instance as as filler and strengthener to "weld" the part back together. It's a bit crude for sure, but it will work. Some practice would be a good idea so you get the hang of it. I say to do the repairs from the back side due to the stippling on the outside that is very hard to duplicate. The method is to use the iron to stitch the cracked part, then go over again with the filler strip and work it all together.

Hope that helps.
What he said!

 

Fabrice

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yup, +1 on the soldering iron, did 2 grilles and repaired my console in ginger this way, the tray inside and other details.
Instead of rods that you can buy, I used bits of other broken parts I had with the same ginger colour, or old grille bits and they are now cracks free and feel strong.
The grille I had even missed a big chunk that I've cut from another broken 71 grille I had bought cheapo for "decoration". You can't see any repair now. Wish body work was that easy, plus it was an era correct fix :D

One or two things I've learned:
- Work in a well ventilated room or outside. because the fumes are really nasty
- For interior parts, do not heat on the outside or you will loose the grain.
- Have the "donor" plastic ready. Heat the crack and make it larger while pushing it in the right desired position (the one you do not see the crack on the other side when pressed)
and when it starts cooling start over, this time with donor plastic in between the iron and the groove you made along he crack. Use the iron to smooth the repair.

That's all.

 
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Omie01

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Thank You guys, I will try this. I am a welder by trade so I understand the technique. I do have some donor material, and a Weller soldering iron with a flat tip attachment that I think will work. Any ideas to build up the area around one of the screw holes, basically the raised barrel portion of the screw hole is broken off. Is there a way to rebuild the raised portion and drill the hole?

 

RIBS

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FYI, I repaired mine by roughing up the back side, and applying epoxy with layers of fiberglass, seemed to hold great, and the repair is very thin…

 

Fabrice

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If you want to fix holes, or better said the guides behind like on gauges or clock or console etc.., it's the same, except I would insert a small tube, rod, screw, that fits in what's left, and build up. You need of course to make sure the guides won't stick, so coat them or tape them before melt some plastic that would otherwise become part of the repair.
In some cases it can help to leave them, like adding a washer or tube that will give extra strength.

I have for my 71 grille tried epoxy before try melt/solder, some 2 component thingy. I'm sure It could hold in some situation for sure, but in my case the next day after testing by adding stress, the epoxy broke despite a very good degreasing and surface prep. May be I did wrong or the type of epoxy/glue was the wrong one for ABS.
But all these are by design only surface bindings. While melting, just like welding metal, makes it all again.

 
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Thank You guys, I will try this. I am a welder by trade so I understand the technique. I do have some donor material, and a Weller soldering iron with a flat tip attachment that I think will work. Any ideas to build up the area around one of the screw holes, basically the raised barrel portion of the screw hole is broken off. Is there a way to rebuild the raised portion and drill the hole?
Same thing, build up with ABS. These areas are down where they're not too visible, so finish is not such a concern. Paint with SEM Trim Black after a good cleaning.

IF you really want to do a proper repair, you could buy a Seelye Hot Air welder in the self contained kit. Mine is a model 63 the newer version I believe is 2001FC. Search Seelye Acquisitions Inc.

 
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