RIBS 71 convertible build JUNE 21 till??

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I guess we are in the same boat then :) Compressors have gotten really expensive lately, have you decided on what to buy? I am still all over the place on what I need to buy. Body work and painting is not my forte.
 

RIBS

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I took my wife for her first ride in the car the other day, she enjoyed it, but hated the green steering wheel. So it was time to put on the new one. A typical Grant. Not horrible…but the black rubber was rock hard, so I wrapped it old school…also it kept honking, the center hole was not big enough and the copper contact section was dragging on nut. After grinding that, I still had constant honk, it turns out Drexel work created may hair like copper strands that were touching various parts…a good sanding and it’s all good now… I know these things don’t have the best reputation, let’s see how it goes. The chrome is already flakey on the bottom edge of the center cap before I even installed it…I will tie off the wrap if I am happy with fitment…
 

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RIBS

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I guess we are in the same boat then :) Compressors have gotten really expensive lately, have you decided on what to buy? I am still all over the place on what I need to buy. Body work and painting is not my forte.
Something 60-80 gallon, 5 hp or so, I think 12-16 cfm at 90 PSI. That seems to meet most recommendations. Probably buy used, resell when done. I have a small compressor for daily needs. Been casually looking, all sellers are flakey..never get back to you, never answer questions…
 
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Yes, that is what I have been looking for too. When I started this project close to a year ago compressors were a lot less. I remember seeing some compressors that met the specs at well under $1000. Seems that everything now is well over $1200. I thought about buying a used compressor, but I am kind of afraid of doing that as you have no idea how much rust and water has been in a used compressor before. I am afraid to end up with a used compressor that will have a ton of rust, dirt, moisture issues that will give me all types of issues while painting. Craftsman has a 60 gallon compressor that is reasonable, but it says to not uses with HVLP painting, not really sure why...
 
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I took my wife for her first ride in the car the other day, she enjoyed it, but hated the green steering wheel. So it was time to put on the new one. A typical Grant. Not horrible…but the black rubber was rock hard, so I wrapped it old school…also it kept honking, the center hole was not big enough and the copper contact section was dragging on nut. After grinding that, I still had constant honk, it turns out Drexel work created may hair like copper strands that were touching various parts…a good sanding and it’s all good now… I know these things don’t have the best reputation, let’s see how it goes. The chrome is already flakey on the bottom edge of the center cap before I even installed it…I will tie off the wrap if I am happy with fitment…

That looks really good with the wrapped leather, fits your interior nicely. Women are very color-sensitive in all their decisions, so I know that feeling 🤣
Great to hear you took her out and enjoyed the car with her!
 

droptop73

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Yeah starting general bodywork….I still need to pull the front springs and cut them down, get the front end aligned, charge the AC and a few other small things….
I'd wait until the car is fully assembled before trying to establish the final ride height. Maybe cut some now and again when fully together.
 

RIBS

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Lots to update. I disassembled the front suspension and cut one full winding off the springs. That lowered the front 2 inches. See before and after pictures. The process was actually really easy and I completed it in two evenings.

I also started having all sorts of problems with the engine just cutting out and dying. It started as intermittent and then became 100% dead. I figured out real early it was spark and not gas, I’ve traced all my wiring all my connections and everything seems good. I’ve had trouble with the coil to distributor spark wire in the past, the first time I plugged that back in the engine ran the next time it died I replaced it and the engine ran for three minutes then died and I replaced it one more time in the engine would not run. At that point I checked everything and could find nothing in particular. Pulled the coil out of its mount and whacked it gently three or four times on the AC bracket, and laid it down intake and the car started just fine. So I replace the coil and I’ve had 30 minutes of run time with no problem . I hope that resolves it..

also, I got the AC charged and it’s fully functional…😀
 

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RIBS

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also after further testing, my AWW kit came with a ballast resistor for my points style ignition. I tested, and I am getting 12.3v through the ballast resistor to the coil. I keep hearing it should be 6-9v …maybe I burned up my coil? Or maybe it’s just a lemon(11 months old, 300 miles, 100 with new wiring)
 

midlife

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What's the resistance of the ballast resistor? Of the coil? To measure each, one side has to be disconnected from the entire circuit.
 

RIBS

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What's the resistance of the ballast resistor? Of the coil? To measure each, one side has to be disconnected from the entire circuit.
1.3 ballast 1.4 Ohms Coil. I don’t understand electricity very well…I know it shocks you! I do know these two things are supposed to be matched? Coil rated 1.4, I think I recall testing it to that, the Ballast is 1.3. And AAW tested one of their instock ones and it’s also 1.3. Is that a close enough match?
 

RIBS

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midlife, my AAW kit has a pink ignition wire, it comes from main harness inside car to firewall where it plugs (terminates)into one side of ballast. The other side of ballast shares the plug with the bypass wire from starter solenoid and the pink wire which continues to positive side of coil. While at rest, not running, key on, 12.3v flows through to coil…while running, with alternator charging, the pink only side is 14.2-14.6 Volts, the other side of ballast is trimmed to 12.3…so the ballast resistor does trim that small amount.

what I have read is stock wiring has resistance built in that keeps voltage to coil lower, possibly 6-9volts? And I should have a ballast resistor that does the same?

Stock points ignition….
 

midlife

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Resistance of your internal wire and coil seem correct. While at rest with the engine not running, you should see battery voltage (12.3V). What doesn't look right is when engine is running, the "pink side is 14.2-14.6V". Is this voltage after the pink resistor wire and before the coil, or before the pink resistor wire is in the circuit?

I don't quite follow your wiring diagram description...I suspect there's a "sneak path" for battery voltage that's getting to the coil...
 

RIBS

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Sorry, bad explanation…
the pink ignition wire goes from main harness in dash, I assume ignition switch, out to ballast resistor, where I cut it and plugged the run coming from ignition switch into one side of ballast resistor…this part of circuit up to ballast resistor gets up to 14.6 v when car is running.

on the other side of ballast resistor, I connected the rest of the pink wire that continues out to +coil. This side is 12.3 when running. This side also has the solenoid bypass wire, which apparently gives extra voltage while cranking, it comes from “I” lug on starter solenoid and shares the plug on the coil side of the ballast resistor.

the picture included has a few unfinished wires, so just follow the pretty colors. Lol. The only wire on the +coil is the Pink ignition which was soldered into a 71 engine harness to become red/green, plugged in with yellow post plug on coil. On the - side of coil, one wire, black, goes nto distributor.

the only other way extra wires could add voltage is the solenoid bypass wire (yellow)…

also here’s a AAW schematic. I am using the box with optional points configuration.

I guess my question is, how much voltage should make it to points and coil during run?
 

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midlife

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The ballast resistor needs to electrically be between of all of the pink resistor wire, the I lead and the coil.
Connect the end of the pink resistor wire to the I wire and one side of the ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor should go to the + side of the coil. You can put plain wires between each connection point.
 

RIBS

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The ballast resistor needs to electrically be between of all of the pink resistor wire, the I lead and the coil.
Connect the end of the pink resistor wire to the I wire and one side of the ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor should go to the + side of the coil. You can put plain wires between each connection point.
Thats exactly how mine is…interesting update, I got one new Ballast Resistor today via amazon, tested it out of box not connected, it was bouncing 1.3-1.4 ohm mostly 1.4, which matches my advertised coil ohm, which also tested to 1.4 ish…
i plugged it all together, ballast resistor smoked a bit at first startup, i have heard this is normal for initial burn in…anyhow, started car and idled and voltage to coil was 12.3 again. Car idled fine, did not have time to road test.
 

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RIBS

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The ballast resistor needs to electrically be between of all of the pink resistor wire, the I lead and the coil.
Connect the end of the pink resistor wire to the I wire and one side of the ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor should go to the + side of the coil. You can put plain wires between each connection point.
Thats exactly how mine is…
 

RIBS

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I have started bodywork. Exciting.
also got my order in for paint related supplies, and bought a 2 stage 80 gallon compressor for the fall painting…and summer primers…and why did I pick the rear panel, the most complex curves on the car as my starting point???
 

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