Roll Cage

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jsquier91

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Hello everyone im trying to wrap up some stuff to finish my car and my parents want me to get a roll cage for the car lol... i was thinking the 4 pt roll cage on jegs...this one

http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/940701K/10002/-1

my question is does anyone have this roll cage and have pictures of it? does it go thru the floor to the frame to weld to or weld to the floor itself? and do they sell 6pt cages, i cant find one. i would like one thats easy to get in and out of and not have to crawl over a bar like in those rice rockets. pictures of your roll cages would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance eveyone!

on a side note question too i couldnt find this in the search menu, but has anyone sprayed a bed liner as an undercoat for their car instead of an actual undercoat. i was thinking it might look nicer but not sure? opinions? thanks!

Jake

 
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BigPinoyHunk

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Hello everyone im trying to wrap up some stuff to finish my car and my parents want me to get a roll cage for the car lol... i was thinking the 4 pt roll cage on jegs...this one

http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/940701K/10002/-1

my question is does anyone have this roll cage and have pictures of it? does it go thru the floor to the frame to weld to or weld to the floor itself? and do they sell 6pt cages, i cant find one. i would like one thats easy to get in and out of and not have to crawl over a bar like in those rice rockets. pictures of your roll cages would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance eveyone!

on a side note question too i couldnt find this in the search menu, but has anyone sprayed a bed liner as an undercoat for their car instead of an actual undercoat. i was thinking it might look nicer but not sure? opinions? thanks!

Jake
I've found a place online that sells a premade kit in the 6 pt and 10pt configs but i can't locate it here at work.

if its just a 6pt, its then considered a bar and must be the thicker 1 3/4 and would be a nice addition to the car.

i have a 10 pt cage in mind because i wanted to start with the smaller 1 5/8 bars to be on the safe side. and plus, the added bars up front allows of alot of mounting of switch board and tach or whatever. i feel more comfortable going fast down a 1/4 track then i do without one.

sucky thing is though, you can bang you're head on the side bars if they installer doesn't command your height and etc. but thats also why you put nice padding all around where you're had may come in contact with.

i'll snap some pics this weekend when i pick up my car.

 

droptop73

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Why are your parents recommending the bar? Rigidity? Safety?

That 4 point bar will not be of much benefit in improving chassis rigidity. You will want to mount the bar to plates welded to the floor since this is a unibody car it does not have a "frame" to weld the bar to.

 

cazsper

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1973 Mach-1: 351c 4V, C-6, 3.73:1 gears and a long "To Do" list..
Here's an idea. Look at the Griggs Racing interior frame kit. Griggs sells tubular suspension parts and coil overs for modern mustangs. Anyway, the idea behind it is to first add subframe connectors, then add this inner frame kit (you can see pictures if you google it). The subframe connectors and the frame kit sandwich the floor. What I did when I had my '95 was: after I had the subframes and the frame kit, I put a 4pt roll bar in it. Not only did I weld it ti the floor, I also welded it to the frame kit. Then I went in the trunk and welded a piece if rollbar tubing from one rear shock "frame" to the other. Like a rear strut tower brace. The two bars on the roll bar that mount to the back seat area were cut off and moved inward a little (I wasn't using my back seat) so I could weld two bars from the roll bar all the way back to the rear "shock mount" brace. I plan to do something similiar to my '73 Mach-1. For the front, I'm thinking run two bars from the roll bar to the front. It wouldn't even have to sit higher than the bottom of the door. If you angle it right, I shouldn't cause any interference getting in or out.

Opinions anyone?

 

1971Fastback

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I have a 6 pt. cage in the 72 I own, it was a custom job and done very well. I understand about climbing over it, but it truly is the proper way to strengthen the car, I've also connected the frame rails. Using the stock bucket seats, I'll have to purchase a removable steering wheel possibly to replace the odd looking small steering wheel that is in the car, that is only if it is a safe and legal thing to do. I will try and take some photos for you in the next couple days.

 

Silverback

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Here's an idea. Look at the Griggs Racing interior frame kit. Griggs sells tubular suspension parts and coil overs for modern mustangs. Anyway, the idea behind it is to first add subframe connectors, then add this inner frame kit (you can see pictures if you google it)
Googled "Griggs Racing interior frame kit" and got nothing useful, nothing on their site also, do you want to give us a link so we know what you're talking about?


Before this thread goes further with random suggestions, WHY???

What is the intended application for this car? Is it a street car or a track car and if track road race or drag or multipurpose (street strip...). And be realistic with your answer. Telling us that it's a race car that will see a little street use when in reality it will be a street car that may never see any track will get you the wrong answers.

Why it matters

- different types of racing require different roll bars/cages

- a cage built for chassis stiffness may be significantly different then one that is built for safety, and what will help most for a drag car is not what will in a street car

- a roll bar/cage is LESS SAFE on the street, and may be illegal depending on your local rules (in most cars it means putting bars in locations that you could hit them with soft body parts in the case of an accident, and yes, relative to a steel bar your head is a soft body part), so if your parents think putting a roll bar in a street car is safer, they're wrong unless you're going to be driving around with a helmet 100% of the time, and the harnesses and bar layout that you need to make this work are probably illegal in most areas (I don't know any 4, 5 or 6pt harnesses that have DOT certifications, and I would argue that you're not going to be held in anything resembling the correct location with less than a 5pt harness)

- if this car will be raced, what class?

- what has been done to this car? How fast is it/how much HP? suspension mods?

I don't know, I could ask a dozen more questions but lets see what the answers are so far.

if your parents just think that they're going to make your death trap mustang safer by putting a roll bar in it that's totally wrong. You can help things with things like sub frame connectors but an actual bar is a hazard on the street.

While I'm at it, these cars do not have frames, they're unibody where the stressed parts/shapes of things like the floor pan, firewall, door pillars, fender supports... serve the function of a frame. Going through the floor with something like roll bar/cage mounts will not serve any function besides weakening the car, unless you tie into something like a set of subframe connectors. The correct way to tie into a unibody car is to use load distribution plates welded to the floor pan in appropriate locations, and by most class rules they need to be a minimum of 6x6" and 1/8" thick...

 
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cazsper

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1973 Mach-1: 351c 4V, C-6, 3.73:1 gears and a long "To Do" list..
What I was describing was more for road racing. But if you have a street car making a ton of power, it will certainly keep your chassis from twisting. As for safety, it's more than MOST people are going to need unless you have a dedicated "race car". If you google "images" Griggs Frame Kit, you'll see a handfull of pics. I just can't post from my phone.

 
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72MustangSprint

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had a Kenny Brown 6 pt bolt in rollbar in my old fox body. easy to get in and out.

MVC-024F.jpg


 
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jsquier91

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my parents are looking to have me get this roll cage as a safety reason..as for the subframe connectors i already have some that i am welding on within the next week (global west). this car will mostly be a street car, and i will be going to the track at least 2 or 3 times a month to have some fun. engine mods include 351w bored .30 over with 408 stroker. all forged internals. forged flat top pistons, h beam rods, main gurdle, harland sharp rocker arms, afr 205 heads, 750 carb. not sure on HP havent dynoed yet. suspension mods are nothing really, just new shocks and new rotors calipers and pads. thanks everyone for input so what do yall think? 4pt bad idea?

 

cazsper

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1973 Mach-1: 351c 4V, C-6, 3.73:1 gears and a long "To Do" list..
As for the roll bar, someone else will have to chime in. I think the racers will say at least a 6pt. As for your motor, my '68 has a 393w, 10:1 comp, 232/240 hyd/roll, AFR heads, Edelbrock Air Gap and a 750cfm with vac 2ndaries and it's making 475 at the flywheel. Depending on your cam, I woukd expect 500+

 

jsquier91

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i have a hyd flat tappet comp cam, 541 544 lift. i was expecting around 500 too. im still not sure on the roll cage right now and i am going to order it later today.. any other opinions? 4,6,or 8pt? if anyone can find a site that sells 6pts ill get that but for now i might be going with a 4pt.

 

marks73

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Anything short of 6 point is non functional. 6 point the is minimum for structural protection.

 

nosdelacruz

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i was looking at similar cages on jegs, and i learned from a racer who told me that steel cages will make the car heavier. if you do a cage you would want to do chrome oly so it weighs less. thats what ive heard and that stopped me from using the jegster cages.

 

jsquier91

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do ya guys have any websites where i can look at 6pt roll cages besides jegs? thanks for all the help guys. im looking to order it today by the way so next weekend i can weld it in along with the subframe connectors

 
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