roof compatibility?

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Much easier just to re-skin the entire panel with another roof from a donor Sportsroof body.

Should be at least one car getting parted out here with bad sheetmetal throughout - except for the roof. Try putting a Wanted ad on your local Craigslist too; might work.

-Kurt

 
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I would think the sports roof line more expensive than a coupe? I know shipping will be a bitch. I'm not ready to buy, still in the research phase of the project.
Both would cost a fortune in shipping. Snoop around for something local. Check the online databases for wreckers yards that may have one of these cars rotting away with a good roof.

So long as you can Sawzall the donor off below the lead lines, you'll be good. That'll give you enough to remove the skin from the superstructure with spot weld cutters.

-Kurt

 
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I would love to see the project through, but as I am in NY, with no room at all, and now that the mustang is in a secured storage unit in Colorado, I just don't know how long it will be until I can even get started. I had to get the roof replaced on my 69 Cougar, after a failed vinyl top. That cost me almost a grand to get done.

 
This may not necessarily be the most recommended method, but how about gluing (with 8115) a flange to the inside, cutting a donor patch to match the existing hole, and gluing that patch with 8115 to the flange?

It may not be the best way, but it'll help keep warpage down.

-Kurt

 
Panel bond may be an acceptable option. I was just going to post a new thread on this topic, as I had a body guy out last night to look at this. I came into a little money, and want to accomplish as much as I can, without just pissing it all away. I am at that 'now or never' moment in life, and not getting any younger.

 
Hi,  are you aware that dynacorn makes a nice fastback style full roof for these now?  Old tread....

 
Bonding a panel in a vehicle is not something you do at home or a body shop. I was Automotive product, process and tooling engineer. The process to bond panels is very close tolerance. If you have too little thickness to too much it does not work. Lots of time on NOS you put dimples in the panels to set gaps and use Togsloc or spot welds to hold in place during cure. Do not try to glue panels will not work at home or a body shop.

 
Thanks for that info- I am in the middle of getting my 68 on the road again, (ruined clutch cable after motor swap) doing the initial start on the rebuilt engine in my 69 (it has been primed a couple of times, also having clutch issues, waiting to start (after getting assembled in 2012) and getting my 67 emptied out for its ride to the sheet metal guy. Oh, and I have a 302 block going to the machine shop tomorrow... The guy doing the sheet metal on the 67 likes the fast back, that may work out to my advantage.

 
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