Rust on Mating Surfaces WHAT DO I DO?

[kiko619]

hello everyone from the group i see that this section of our club has over 20,000 entries and clearly most of them are resolved couldn't be any happier to be a part of this fam.

first the story/rant:

So this VERY unfortunate event happened.... during the time i was pulling the 351C from the car, i had to step out on a long errand and had the boys mount her on the engine stand and begin tearing her down for inspections... sadly there was a slight incline on the concrete and the darn thing started to tilt when they removed the intake manifold. I told them to just take it off and leave it on a pallet wrap it up so nothing happens... well these wise guys never put the manifold back on the block.. nor did they close off the fuel pump, oil filter insert, and water pump inlets :dodgy:... i never once checked on it because i just assumed they did the job correctly,(mother of all f'ups is to assume anything btw) this was done back in Aug. 2014

Now my question is: (important note its SUPER caked with carbon build up)

how do i remove the surface rust on the intake mating surface without damaging?

if water did get into the block via intake ports to cylinder how fudged is the engine?

can i still tear her down and rebuild it myself, more importantly... question#1

should i just save money and have it rebuilt?

(long block $1695.99 3yr warranty 36,000miles) im in houston, Tx.

someone please guide me :[

 

[rvrtrash]

It's impossible to say if water got in to the cylinders, or if there is any damage there, without pulling the heads off. If the engine was wrapped in plastic or something, it probably only got condensation, so if anything, will only be surface rust. I'd wipe some Marvel Mystery oil on the cylinder walls, so it will seep down to the rings and keep them from sticking when you turn the crank over. Any surface rust you can get to, like the mounting surfaces, can be cleaned up with a little emory cloth. If the engine is all carboned up, and you were going to rebuild it anyway, I'd just take the block in after you disassemble everything and have it hot tanked. I like to magnaflux my blocks at the same time to insure there are no cracks. When you say rebuild yourself, to do it right, you're going to have to take it to a machine shop to have it bored, crank turned, etc., anyway.

Steve

 

[Mister 4x4]

I agree with Steve - if you're thinking about rebuilding anyway, just pull it down, take it in and get it worked over... then put it all back together with confidence. ::thumb::

"Carboned Up," means different things to different people. If it's primarily on the top end or intake, it sounds like a clean up and adjusting of the fuel delivery is in order. If it's more down low, exhaust, or everywhere, then yeah, rebuild might be necessary.

Honestly though, the little bit of surface rust on the mating surfaces will clean right up either with emery cloth or even a pneumatic clean-up/light-stripping "cookie." The internal areas where water might've gone through oil areas - I wouldn't be too worried about. The residual oil in the passages would tend to repel water and not allow much, if any, significant rust to form.

If it wasn't puffing smoke or having other normal "old age" kinds of issues, pulling it apart, cleaning everything up and rebuilding with just new gaskets, fasteners, and whatnot could be a quick and easy way to put your mind at ease about the coolant mishap issues. But, if you're that far apart and can afford it, you might as well go all in for a rebuild.

At the very least, you're draining all fluids, flushing everything, and preparing for some crazy smoky/steamy first fire-up conditions while things burn off from places they shouldn't be.

 

[captthundarr]

It's impossible to say if water got in to the cylinders, or if there is any damage there, without pulling the heads off. If the engine was wrapped in plastic or something, it probably only got condensation, so if anything, will only be surface rust. I'd wipe some Marvel Mystery oil on the cylinder walls, so it will seep down to the rings and keep them from sticking when you turn the crank over. Any surface rust you can get to, like the mounting surfaces, can be cleaned up with a little emory cloth. If the engine is all carboned up, and you were going to rebuild it anyway, I'd just take the block in after you disassemble everything and have it hot tanked. I like to magnaflux my blocks at the same time to insure there are no cracks. When you say rebuild yourself, to do it right, you're going to have to take it to a machine shop to have it bored, crank turned, etc., anyway.

Steve

+2

 

[mustang7173]

kiko619,

Another possible option is to purchase a book on How to Rebuild your 351 engine and read up on what it will take. This might help you decide on how to proceed with your project. One of the first books I read before rebuild my 351C engine.

How to Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351 C-351m-400-429-460 Paperback – 1980

by Tom Monroe (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Your-Ford-C-351m-400-429-460/dp/B003VT2D8E/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425499118&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=FORD+351C+351M+400+429+460+ENGINES+HOW+TO+REBUILD+YOUR+FORD+VINTAGE

mustang7173

 

[kiko619]

"Carboned Up," means different things to different people. If it's primarily on the top end or intake, it sounds like a clean up and adjusting of the fuel delivery is in order. If it's more down low, exhaust, or everywhere, then yeah, rebuild might be necessary.

Honestly though, the little bit of surface rust on the mating surfaces will clean right up either with emery cloth or even a pneumatic clean-up/light-stripping "cookie." The internal areas where water might've gone through oil areas - I wouldn't be too worried about. The residual oil in the passages would tend to repel water and not allow much, if any, significant rust to form.

If it wasn't puffing smoke or having other normal "old age" kinds of issues, pulling it apart, cleaning everything up and rebuilding with just new gaskets, fasteners, and whatnot could be a quick and easy way to put your mind at ease about the coolant mishap issues. But, if you're that far apart and can afford it, you might as well go all in for a rebuild.

This was literally what i wanted to do, pretty much clean up all that carbon build up that has acculmilated over the 40 years. believe me when i say this, it had ROCKS of solidified gunk. I unfortunately reallly am too far to spend that much atm so thats why i wanted to tear it down myself and clean it up as best as i can.

Any surface rust you can get to, like the mounting surfaces, can be cleaned up with a little emory cloth. If the engine is all carboned up, and you were going to rebuild it anyway, I'd just take the block in after you disassemble everything and have it hot tanked.

Steve

This im more than certain id like to consider, im sure hot tanking or whatever else is used to strip away heavy caked carbon build up shouldnt be too expensive.

then again at the college budget... everything is expensive lol

kiko619,

Another possible option is to purchase a book on How to Rebuild your 351 engine and read up on what it will take. This might help you decide on how to proceed with your project. One of the first books I read before rebuild my 351C engine.

How to Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351 C-351m-400-429-460 Paperback – 1980

by Tom Monroe (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Your-Ford-C-351m-400-429-460/dp/B003VT2D8E/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425499118&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=FORD+351C+351M+400+429+460+ENGINES+HOW+TO+REBUILD+YOUR+FORD+VINTAGE

mustang7173

totally buying this. thank you sir for your guidance. i have found the car's bible lol

 

[barnett468]

.

you can have the block and heads hot tanked to remove sludge etc . . a brass brush and aerosol carb cleaner work ok too.

 

[InjectedMach]

If you are going to rebuild it correctly there will be some machinework and cam bearings to replace so I would also suggest you tear it down and have everything hot tanked at a machineshop. They can do your valve job, install cam brgs., freeze plugs and hone the block as well as check the crank journals so you know what size bearings to buy. The hot tank will also clean the pistons nicely.