Sound off if you have a convertible

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Portland, OR
My Car
1973 Convertible
I just "finished" my '73 and am just driving it now. From the factory: 351C, C6, NASA Hood, Appearnce Group, Sport Mirrors, Console, blue interior. I have the original bill of sale and factory sheet with pencil marks for installed options. Its been repainted once, same color (close). 117K miles roughly on the car. Two owners before me (@ 5-7 years ago) replaced the suspension and re-built the motor and changed out the interior to white. The guy I got it from did new flowmaster exhuast (mid range so nice rumble at idle but not loud aggressive to drive, unless you get on it), headers, some Mach 1 clone items, added factory gauges/tach, 8-Track and other period correct items that didn't come on the car. I did a new top this summer, Mach 1 stripes to finish the clone look, better speakers for the radio and more misc. mechanical. All new steering linkage, fixed some oil leaks, etc. For safety beings I plan on driving it frequently, added Halogen Headlights with daytime running lights and three point seatbelts. Not an original concours car but a lot of fun to drive and lots of thumbs up. The headlights look stock but what a difference when driving a two lane country road at night. Handles better than new and I'd drive it anywhere without even opening the hood now.

73 Mustang top down.jpg

73 Mustang with Mach 1 stripes.jpg

 

luxstang

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1972 Mustang Convertible
Respect!

I like the color and the wheels. The white interior goes well with the body color. A real harmonic concept.

Ain´t it funny how you can turn those cars into a daily driver providing almost up to date features and handling with only a few minor mods?

And again, this car is no exception: It looks better with the top up, imho.

By the way, are those Budnik wheels?

 

OLE PONY

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73 Mustang Conv.
01 Mustang Bullitt (my son owns now)
04 Oxford White Mach 1
04 Azure Blue Mach 1 (sold)
Sounds like you made some nice improvements. The white interior should be a lot cooler on a hot day and looks good with the blue. I like the contrast of the black interior with my white convert, but it does get hot.

How about some close-up pics of the 3 point seatbelts so us other converible owners can see how you installed them.

 
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
Portland, OR
My Car
1973 Convertible
Respect!

I like the color and the wheels. The white interior goes well with the body color. A real harmonic concept.

Ain´t it funny how you can turn those cars into a daily driver providing almost up to date features and handling with only a few minor mods?

And again, this car is no exception: It looks better with the top up, imho.

By the way, are those Budnik wheels?
The wheels are 17" American Racing Hopsters. The guy before me put them on. I was thinking of getting Magnum 500 when I got the car 1 1/2 years ago. It had a white vinyl top that was old & had holes. Once I got the black top on, and the black Mach 1 side stripes, I decided to leave the Hopsters as they look better now by far. My wife likes the looks better with the top up as well. With the top down and the white cover, it looks great to me going down the rode but maybe thats becuase I want the top down. Part of the reason I wanted a 71-73 & not a 69-70, was the more modern car overall. I already had power disc brakes, power steering, unleaded gas engine, factory safety improvements like gas tank location, steering collapse, etc. from factory. By adding better headlights, daytime and three points, rounds out most of the modern improvements. I had the fuel lines re-done and re-routed with metal anywhere near the engine for safety reasons as well. Nothing is for sure, but I like improving my odds at reasonable cost.



Sounds like you made some nice improvements. The white interior should be a lot cooler on a hot day and looks good with the blue. I like the contrast of the black interior with my white convert, but it does get hot.

How about some close-up pics of the 3 point seatbelts so us other converible owners can see how you installed them.
I will take some shots tomorrow and post. The kit I got from Mustangs Unlimited came with the parts for multiple years & body styles. I had to use a heat gun to "mold" the interior panel just a little so I got a better fit in there. I wanted a flat spot without rubbing so the pivot moved. Fairly easy to do just don't leave the heat too long or you'll lose the surface feel. Once you get the panel off, there was a natural spot to me to drill through that had good re-inforcement and the bolt that came with an angled piece for the door jamb fit the surface very good. I bolted to factory locations only down low inside the car. Driving with the seat belts on is a natural fit, similar to a Mercedes CLK430 I had. Feels very natural. I'm 6' tall. The other issue was, I had original belts and after almost 40 years, I don't think they would have held anything. New belts, three point and old style buckles and I would say no one but a Mustang show judge would know they were not factory from day one. I know going down the road, its not as likely I will smash my face, just in case. That way if I do wreck, I can cry about my car instead of me.



Respect!

I like the color and the wheels. The white interior goes well with the body color. A real harmonic concept.

Ain´t it funny how you can turn those cars into a daily driver providing almost up to date features and handling with only a few minor mods?

And again, this car is no exception: It looks better with the top up, imho.

By the way, are those Budnik wheels?
The wheels are 17" American Racing Hopsters. The guy before me put them on. I was thinking of getting Magnum 500 when I got the car 1 1/2 years ago. It had a white vinyl top that was old & had holes. Once I got the black top on, and the black Mach 1 side stripes, I decided to leave the Hopsters as they look better now by far. My wife likes the looks better with the top up as well. With the top down and the white cover, it looks great to me going down the rode but maybe thats becuase I want the top down. Part of the reason I wanted a 71-73 & not a 69-70, was the more modern car overall. I already had power disc brakes, power steering, unleaded gas engine, factory safety improvements like gas tank location, steering collapse, etc. from factory. By adding better headlights, daytime and three points, rounds out most of the modern improvements. I had the fuel lines re-done and re-routed with metal anywhere near the engine for safety reasons as well. Nothing is for sure, but I like improving my odds at reasonable cost.



Sounds like you made some nice improvements. The white interior should be a lot cooler on a hot day and looks good with the blue. I like the contrast of the black interior with my white convert, but it does get hot.

How about some close-up pics of the 3 point seatbelts so us other converible owners can see how you installed them.
I will take some shots tomorrow and post. The kit I got from Mustangs Unlimited came with the parts for multiple years & body styles. I had to use a heat gun to "mold" the interior panel just a little so I got a better fit in there. I wanted a flat spot without rubbing so the pivot moved. Fairly easy to do just don't leave the heat too long or you'll lose the surface feel. Once you get the panel off, there was a natural spot to me to drill through that had good re-inforcement and the bolt that came with an angled piece for the door jamb fit the surface very good. I bolted to factory locations only down low inside the car. Driving with the seat belts on is a natural fit, similar to a Mercedes CLK430 I had. Feels very natural. I'm 6' tall. The other issue was, I had original belts and after almost 40 years, I don't think they would have held anything. New belts, three point and old style buckles and I would say no one but a Mustang show judge would know they were not factory from day one. I know going down the road, its not as likely I will smash my face, just in case. That way if I do wreck, I can cry about my car instead of me.
Just remembered, I already posted the pics on another string.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-3-point-seatbelt-conversion

 
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OLE PONY

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Messages
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Location
Warrenton, Virginia
My Car
73 Mustang Conv.
01 Mustang Bullitt (my son owns now)
04 Oxford White Mach 1
04 Azure Blue Mach 1 (sold)
Respect!

I like the color and the wheels. The white interior goes well with the body color. A real harmonic concept.

Ain´t it funny how you can turn those cars into a daily driver providing almost up to date features and handling with only a few minor mods?

And again, this car is no exception: It looks better with the top up, imho.

By the way, are those Budnik wheels?
The wheels are 17" American Racing Hopsters. The guy before me put them on. I was thinking of getting Magnum 500 when I got the car 1 1/2 years ago. It had a white vinyl top that was old & had holes. Once I got the black top on, and the black Mach 1 side stripes, I decided to leave the Hopsters as they look better now by far. My wife likes the looks better with the top up as well. With the top down and the white cover, it looks great to me going down the rode but maybe thats becuase I want the top down. Part of the reason I wanted a 71-73 & not a 69-70, was the more modern car overall. I already had power disc brakes, power steering, unleaded gas engine, factory safety improvements like gas tank location, steering collapse, etc. from factory. By adding better headlights, daytime and three points, rounds out most of the modern improvements. I had the fuel lines re-done and re-routed with metal anywhere near the engine for safety reasons as well. Nothing is for sure, but I like improving my odds at reasonable cost.



Sounds like you made some nice improvements. The white interior should be a lot cooler on a hot day and looks good with the blue. I like the contrast of the black interior with my white convert, but it does get hot.

How about some close-up pics of the 3 point seatbelts so us other converible owners can see how you installed them.
I will take some shots tomorrow and post. The kit I got from Mustangs Unlimited came with the parts for multiple years & body styles. I had to use a heat gun to "mold" the interior panel just a little so I got a better fit in there. I wanted a flat spot without rubbing so the pivot moved. Fairly easy to do just don't leave the heat too long or you'll lose the surface feel. Once you get the panel off, there was a natural spot to me to drill through that had good re-inforcement and the bolt that came with an angled piece for the door jamb fit the surface very good. I bolted to factory locations only down low inside the car. Driving with the seat belts on is a natural fit, similar to a Mercedes CLK430 I had. Feels very natural. I'm 6' tall. The other issue was, I had original belts and after almost 40 years, I don't think they would have held anything. New belts, three point and old style buckles and I would say no one but a Mustang show judge would know they were not factory from day one. I know going down the road, its not as likely I will smash my face, just in case. That way if I do wreck, I can cry about my car instead of me.



Respect!

I like the color and the wheels. The white interior goes well with the body color. A real harmonic concept.

Ain´t it funny how you can turn those cars into a daily driver providing almost up to date features and handling with only a few minor mods?

And again, this car is no exception: It looks better with the top up, imho.

By the way, are those Budnik wheels?
The wheels are 17" American Racing Hopsters. The guy before me put them on. I was thinking of getting Magnum 500 when I got the car 1 1/2 years ago. It had a white vinyl top that was old & had holes. Once I got the black top on, and the black Mach 1 side stripes, I decided to leave the Hopsters as they look better now by far. My wife likes the looks better with the top up as well. With the top down and the white cover, it looks great to me going down the rode but maybe thats becuase I want the top down. Part of the reason I wanted a 71-73 & not a 69-70, was the more modern car overall. I already had power disc brakes, power steering, unleaded gas engine, factory safety improvements like gas tank location, steering collapse, etc. from factory. By adding better headlights, daytime and three points, rounds out most of the modern improvements. I had the fuel lines re-done and re-routed with metal anywhere near the engine for safety reasons as well. Nothing is for sure, but I like improving my odds at reasonable cost.



Sounds like you made some nice improvements. The white interior should be a lot cooler on a hot day and looks good with the blue. I like the contrast of the black interior with my white convert, but it does get hot.

How about some close-up pics of the 3 point seatbelts so us other converible owners can see how you installed them.
I will take some shots tomorrow and post. The kit I got from Mustangs Unlimited came with the parts for multiple years & body styles. I had to use a heat gun to "mold" the interior panel just a little so I got a better fit in there. I wanted a flat spot without rubbing so the pivot moved. Fairly easy to do just don't leave the heat too long or you'll lose the surface feel. Once you get the panel off, there was a natural spot to me to drill through that had good re-inforcement and the bolt that came with an angled piece for the door jamb fit the surface very good. I bolted to factory locations only down low inside the car. Driving with the seat belts on is a natural fit, similar to a Mercedes CLK430 I had. Feels very natural. I'm 6' tall. The other issue was, I had original belts and after almost 40 years, I don't think they would have held anything. New belts, three point and old style buckles and I would say no one but a Mustang show judge would know they were not factory from day one. I know going down the road, its not as likely I will smash my face, just in case. That way if I do wreck, I can cry about my car instead of me.
Just remembered, I already posted the pics on another string.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-3-point-seatbelt-conversion
I checked out the other thread; I must have missed it before. The shoulder harness actually looks pretty good there!

 

CTGSTANG

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Brandon, FL
My Car
1972 Mustang Convertible red/white interior. Engine: 302 V8 w/air, upgraded Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Petronix, Holly 600cfm carb, power windows.
I just "finished" my '73 and am just driving it now. From the factory: 351C, C6, NASA Hood, Appearnce Group, Sport Mirrors, Console, blue interior. I have the original bill of sale and factory sheet with pencil marks for installed options. Its been repainted once, same color (close). 117K miles roughly on the car. Two owners before me (@ 5-7 years ago) replaced the suspension and re-built the motor and changed out the interior to white. The guy I got it from did new flowmaster exhuast (mid range so nice rumble at idle but not loud aggressive to drive, unless you get on it), headers, some Mach 1 clone items, added factory gauges/tach, 8-Track and other period correct items that didn't come on the car. I did a new top this summer, Mach 1 stripes to finish the clone look, better speakers for the radio and more misc. mechanical. All new steering linkage, fixed some oil leaks, etc. For safety beings I plan on driving it frequently, added Halogen Headlights with daytime running lights and three point seatbelts. Not an original concours car but a lot of fun to drive and lots of thumbs up. The headlights look stock but what a difference when driving a two lane country road at night. Handles better than new and I'd drive it anywhere without even opening the hood now.
This is one GREAT looking Mustang! You make us convertible owners proud. Those rims look awesome too. Thanks for all the info!

 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
My Car
1972 convertible:
originally an F-code, automatic drivetrain converted to Q-code, 4spd. Many additional mods to interior (late model leather) and exterior (custom silver mist metallic polar white) . Badged as a "Boss 351" clone.
1973 convertible:
all in original condition and driveable. Everthing is functional with the exception of the heater and ac.
I posted this information this evening in the Introduction section. I also have a 1973 convertible that is a daily driver in poor (appearance)original condition. I may post a couple of pics of it later. When I was a young man in my 20's I did warranty work on these 71-73 Mustangs at the dealership I worked at. Now I enjoy owning them while working on them.

Re: 1972 base convertible resto-mod

Original car:

F-code, C-4, 8' rear axle. PS, PB, AC, Grabber Blue, white top, white interior, manual crank windows, left chrome mirror, standard hubcaps

Restored and modified completed 2004:

Q-code 351 CJ, closed chamber 4V heads, 1982 Motorsports Super CJ hydraulic camshaft, forged pistons, Torker intake, Holley 600 cfm, Pertronix Ignitor II, T-10 toploader 4 speed, 9" N-case rear traction lock 3.50 ratio, 15" magnum 500 wheels, tilt column, rimblow wheel, ginger interior, 1998 GT leather seats, power windows, left and right sport mirrors (both with each functioning remote control joysticks), white tri-coat metallic paint, grey top, silver lower accent, Boss 351 graphics, Mach I grills front and rear.

I did all the mechanical and interior work, subbed out the paint work.

72.jpg


interior.JPG


 

OLE PONY

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73 Mustang Conv.
01 Mustang Bullitt (my son owns now)
04 Oxford White Mach 1
04 Azure Blue Mach 1 (sold)
I posted this information this evening in the Introduction section. I also have a 1973 convertible that is a daily driver in poor (appearance)original condition. I may post a couple of pics of it later. When I was a young man in my 20's I did warranty work on these 71-73 Mustangs at the dealership I worked at. Now I enjoy owning them while working on them.

Re: 1972 base convertible resto-mod

Original car:

F-code, C-4, 8' rear axle. PS, PB, AC, Grabber Blue, white top, white interior, manual crank windows, left chrome mirror, standard hubcaps

Restored and modified completed 2004:

Q-code 351 CJ, closed chamber 4V heads, 1982 Motorsports Super CJ hydraulic camshaft, forged pistons, Torker intake, Holley 600 cfm, Pertronix Ignitor II, T-10 toploader 4 speed, 9" N-case rear traction lock 3.50 ratio, 15" magnum 500 wheels, tilt column, rimblow wheel, ginger interior, 1998 GT leather seats, power windows, left and right sport mirrors (both with each functioning remote control joysticks), white tri-coat metallic paint, grey top, silver lower accent, Boss 351 graphics, Mach I grills front and rear.

I did all the mechanical and interior work, subbed out the paint work.

72.jpg


interior.JPG
Looks sharp! The 98 GT seats blend in well. How about a picture showing the Grey Top!

 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
My Car
1972 convertible:
originally an F-code, automatic drivetrain converted to Q-code, 4spd. Many additional mods to interior (late model leather) and exterior (custom silver mist metallic polar white) . Badged as a "Boss 351" clone.
1973 convertible:
all in original condition and driveable. Everthing is functional with the exception of the heater and ac.
Looks sharp! The 98 GT seats blend in well. How about a picture showing the Grey Top!
This is when I was installing the top. There were no other pictures of the top up since.

grey%20top.jpg


 
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
54
Reaction score
2
Location
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
My Car
1972 convertible:
originally an F-code, automatic drivetrain converted to Q-code, 4spd. Many additional mods to interior (late model leather) and exterior (custom silver mist metallic polar white) . Badged as a "Boss 351" clone.
1973 convertible:
all in original condition and driveable. Everthing is functional with the exception of the heater and ac.
Wow, looks sharp!

If you haven't already done so, please post a short intro in the Introductions section so we can give you a proper welcome! Glad to have you here!

Doc
Just did that and I am incorporating a response to a PM I received with a couple of questions. I plan to be posting from time to time in this section in the future. I will try to help with tech responses when I can.

PM question and response:

I'm curious about the seats, did you have to do any mod work to make them fit properly?

Also the power windows.....where did you find them? Would love to be able to add that to my car?

The seats will bolt to the original seat tracks. If I remember correctly I had to drill some holes in the seat tracks to connect the '98 seats. It does not ruin the seat tracks and they can be used again if you want to put back in the original seats. The '98 seats are thicker so you will sit higher and the reclining capability is nice to make a more comfortable sitting position. However, the travel to the rear is limited by the outside seat belt retractors bolted on the floor behind the front seats. I am 6' 4" and this puts me closer to the steering wheel than I like. I may end up putting the original seats back in at a later time.

Original power window installation is possible but it requires that you get EVERY part necessary. Today it would require a donor car to do this (and I doubt all the parts will still be there). It took me many years in the early 2000's to collect all the parts required to do just the '72 conversion. People who say they have the complete PW setup to make the conversion generally don't have everything and there are critical pieces missing. Most don't realize that the harness that runs behind the defroster vents across and behind the dash is the most critical part. It is the hardest to remove because the complete dash assembly has to be removed in order to retrieve that specialized wiring harness. Also, the special relay to operate the windows is getting harder to find. Finally, the rear "pancake" window motors are reaching their serviceability life and may work very slowly, if at all. I see that they are selling a new PW conversion setup but it uses GM type switches to operate it. I won't spend that kind of money for one however I could probably figure out how to incorporate '73 original style switches to operate it. The '73 switches are still available new and many of the late '70s and early '80s Ford and Lincoln large cars still have useable harness connections that will work with these new switches. It would then take a little time to figure out how to incorporate and merge the original wiring into the newer motor assemblies and harness. This is the part of the restoration I enjoy doing.

Good luck with your car. I have had many Mustang convertibles over the last 40 years. Never disappointed, just missed them when they were gone.

Jeff

 
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1971 mustang convertible
1974 Z28 camaro
1963 chevy C10
1999 F150 lariat 4X4
71 f code C4 red with black interior. just acquired the car so still in restoration process. It has the mach1 style hood, deluxe interior, and grande package.

 
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Joined
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Location
Fraser Valley BC Canada
My Car
1972 Mustang Convertible slightly modified 351 Cleveland, White body Black roof, Ginger interior. magnum 500's
Wow, looks sharp!

If you haven't already done so, please post a short intro in the Introductions section so we can give you a proper welcome! Glad to have you here!

Doc
Just did that and I am incorporating a response to a PM I received with a couple of questions. I plan to be posting from time to time in this section in the future. I will try to help with tech responses when I can.

PM question and response:

I'm curious about the seats, did you have to do any mod work to make them fit properly?

Also the power windows.....where did you find them? Would love to be able to add that to my car?

The seats will bolt to the original seat tracks. If I remember correctly I had to drill some holes in the seat tracks to connect the '98 seats. It does not ruin the seat tracks and they can be used again if you want to put back in the original seats. The '98 seats are thicker so you will sit higher and the reclining capability is nice to make a more comfortable sitting position. However, the travel to the rear is limited by the outside seat belt retractors bolted on the floor behind the front seats. I am 6' 4" and this puts me closer to the steering wheel than I like. I may end up putting the original seats back in at a later time.

Original power window installation is possible but it requires that you get EVERY part necessary. Today it would require a donor car to do this (and I doubt all the parts will still be there). It took me many years in the early 2000's to collect all the parts required to do just the '72 conversion. People who say they have the complete PW setup to make the conversion generally don't have everything and there are critical pieces missing. Most don't realize that the harness that runs behind the defroster vents across and behind the dash is the most critical part. It is the hardest to remove because the complete dash assembly has to be removed in order to retrieve that specialized wiring harness. Also, the special relay to operate the windows is getting harder to find. Finally, the rear "pancake" window motors are reaching their serviceability life and may work very slowly, if at all. I see that they are selling a new PW conversion setup but it uses GM type switches to operate it. I won't spend that kind of money for one however I could probably figure out how to incorporate '73 original style switches to operate it. The '73 switches are still available new and many of the late '70s and early '80s Ford and Lincoln large cars still have useable harness connections that will work with these new switches. It would then take a little time to figure out how to incorporate and merge the original wiring into the newer motor assemblies and harness. This is the part of the restoration I enjoy doing.

Good luck with your car. I have had many Mustang convertibles over the last 40 years. Never disappointed, just missed them when they were gone.

Jeff

1973 switches fit just make the round ends on the wires a little bigger and they plug right in all mt door switches were replaced with these and I got some of the last nos driver door ones 12 years ago and even then they were $40.


Wow, looks sharp!

If you haven't already done so, please post a short intro in the Introductions section so we can give you a proper welcome! Glad to have you here!

Doc
Just did that and I am incorporating a response to a PM I received with a couple of questions. I plan to be posting from time to time in this section in the future. I will try to help with tech responses when I can.

PM question and response:

I'm curious about the seats, did you have to do any mod work to make them fit properly?

Also the power windows.....where did you find them? Would love to be able to add that to my car?

The seats will bolt to the original seat tracks. If I remember correctly I had to drill some holes in the seat tracks to connect the '98 seats. It does not ruin the seat tracks and they can be used again if you want to put back in the original seats. The '98 seats are thicker so you will sit higher and the reclining capability is nice to make a more comfortable sitting position. However, the travel to the rear is limited by the outside seat belt retractors bolted on the floor behind the front seats. I am 6' 4" and this puts me closer to the steering wheel than I like. I may end up putting the original seats back in at a later time.

Original power window installation is possible but it requires that you get EVERY part necessary. Today it would require a donor car to do this (and I doubt all the parts will still be there). It took me many years in the early 2000's to collect all the parts required to do just the '72 conversion. People who say they have the complete PW setup to make the conversion generally don't have everything and there are critical pieces missing. Most don't realize that the harness that runs behind the defroster vents across and behind the dash is the most critical part. It is the hardest to remove because the complete dash assembly has to be removed in order to retrieve that specialized wiring harness. Also, the special relay to operate the windows is getting harder to find. Finally, the rear "pancake" window motors are reaching their serviceability life and may work very slowly, if at all. I see that they are selling a new PW conversion setup but it uses GM type switches to operate it. I won't spend that kind of money for one however I could probably figure out how to incorporate '73 original style switches to operate it. The '73 switches are still available new and many of the late '70s and early '80s Ford and Lincoln large cars still have useable harness connections that will work with these new switches. It would then take a little time to figure out how to incorporate and merge the original wiring into the newer motor assemblies and harness. This is the part of the restoration I enjoy doing.

Good luck with your car. I have had many Mustang convertibles over the last 40 years. Never disappointed, just missed them when they were gone.

Jeff

1973 switches fit just make the round ends on the wires a little bigger and they plug right in all mt door switches were replaced with these and I got some of the last nos driver door ones 12 years ago and even then they were $40.
 
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Phoenix
My Car
'73 mustang convt.
71 f code C4 red with black interior. just acquired the car so still in restoration process. It has the mach1 style hood, deluxe interior, and grande package.
Convertibles and Grande were exclusive of each other. (Just like there isn't a mach 1 convertible). Unlike the Grande our convertibles could included the stripes, the scooped hood, etc. The Grande was pretty much limited to coupes. You may have all of the options, the decor group is very similar to the Grande look for example.

 
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