I agree with Chris.
When mine was done, my painter only used the template as a guide and taped the shape using 3M plastic detailing tape. The template I used was from Graphics Express. He was afraid there might be bleed through at the joints and edges.
In my case, it was not the painters fault, I told him the dimension from the front edge of the hood was 2", but I forgot the nose trim was not yet on, so it ended up to be 3" from the front. This is a common mistake it seems as I've seen many like it. In reality, no-one outside the Mustang guys will ever know it's not correct.
There have been many threads/posts on this subject and the factory dimensions are documented. Personally, I think the original black out was a tad too wide from a proportion perspective.
Best of luck.
Good luck with the blackout. I've attached before and after photos of when I did my hood. I am certain that there was some variation in hood stencil application from the factory so don't stress too much. I used measurements from a couple of survivor cars to get the width right. Agree with Geoff that slimmer might have looked better, but I wanted OEM look, so there it is...Thanks Chris
I am primming it this week end (weather ) outside , and my kids got me the stencil for Xmas and
Was not sure . Thanks for the input , will do it that way and measure it correctly
AJ
I agree with Chris, don't get too stressed out about it. They weren't perfect from the factory. I had 73 back in high school that I bought from the original owner that had all original paint except I painted the rear quarter. The hood black out had a wave down the passenger side that was there from new. You can kind of see it in the picture below.Good luck with the blackout. I've attached before and after photos of when I did my hood. I am certain that there was some variation in hood stencil application from the factory so don't stress too much. I used measurements from a couple of survivor cars to get the width right. Agree with Geoff that slimmer might have looked better, but I wanted OEM look, so there it is...
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Good luck with the blackout. I've attached before and after photos of when I did my hood. I am certain that there was some variation in hood stencil application from the factory so don't stress too much. I used measurements from a couple of survivor cars to get the width right. Agree with Geoff that slimmer might have looked better, but I wanted OEM look, so there it is...
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Good luck with the blackout. I've attached before and after photos of when I did my hood. I am certain that there was some variation in hood stencil application from the factory so don't stress too much. I used measurements from a couple of survivor cars to get the width right. Agree with Geoff that slimmer might have looked better, but I wanted OEM look, so there it is...
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Also, to answer your original question.... The factory painted the black after the body color paint was applied. You can feel on a factory painted car the blackout edge was above the body paint and not under it.To CHris's and Geof's point about the setback from the front edge of the hood. Although the painter was told, the message apparently was not understood... So as you can see mine is not correct when compared to Chris's hood ...
Deaf ears!To CHris's and Geof's point about the setback from the front edge of the hood. Although the painter was told, the message apparently was not understood... So as you can see mine is not correct when compared to Chris's hood ...
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Blackout looks perfect! Like the cobra jet in the background too!Good luck with the blackout. I've attached before and after photos of when I did my hood. I am certain that there was some variation in hood stencil application from the factory so don't stress too much. I used measurements from a couple of survivor cars to get the width right. Agree with Geoff that slimmer might have looked better, but I wanted OEM look, so there it is...
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