STILL no start!!!!!!!!(REVISITED)

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

Danno

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
606
Reaction score
1
Location
Mount Prospect Illinios
My Car
1972 Fastback, Sportsroof
Did a total parts replacement , plugs, points, rotor, condenser, wires, and cap. The car ran fine for several weeks after this. All i needed to do was turn the key standing outside the car and it would immediately start. I drove it and it ran great.

One day I had it idling and I walked away from it, when I came back it had died. Trying to restart, it sounded like the timing was way off and it would hardly run, finally it wouldn't start at all, but crank like it was missing real bad. I tried all combinations of new and old points and condenser, and even borrowed a coil from a friend and still nothing. We then took the top off the carb ( 2 barrel), and sucked all the old gas out and filled the bowl with "good" gas, put it all back together and it started up immediately, like there was never any problem. For a week or so I would just start it and let it run and shut it off, then I got brave and tried to drive it. It died 1/2 block from my house and I limped home popping and farting ( the car, LOL).

Back to square 1 now. I have 5 # fuel pressure and a "professionally" rebuilt carb, and the same tune up parts from before.

Now it cranks strong and even, I'm getting gas in the carb, (I even tried pouring gas in the carb and using starting fluid) and still no start. Checking further I do have spark from the coil and a good spark at the points, but nothing to the plugs, I tried several cylinders, and no spark. I know this is probably a no brainer, but what am I missing? This was so intermittant, running rough, then not, I must be missing something basic...........IDEAS???? :help:

 

Don C

Fords Forever
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
8,113
Reaction score
873
Location
Springfield, OR
My Car
1971 Mustang Sportroof M code
There is a leaf spring on top of the rotor that makes contact with the center terminal and then distributes the spark to the cylinders. I would start by checking the center terminal, especially the carbon nub that the leaf spring rubs against.

Did you check the high voltage lead from the coil to the distributor cap?

 

Ryunker

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 8, 2018
Messages
172
Reaction score
24
Location
Crystal Lake, Il
My Car
1971 Mach1 351C
[url=https://ibb.co/fF5Ono][img]https://preview.ibb.co/dKMw7o/20180526_110612.jpg[/img][/url]
Did a total parts replacement , plugs, points, rotor, condenser, wires, and cap. The car ran fine for several weeks after this. All i needed to do was turn the key standing outside the car and it would immediately start. I drove it and it ran great.

One day I had it idling and I walked away from it, when I came back it had died. Trying to restart, it sounded like the timing was way off and it would hardly run, finally it wouldn't start at all, but crank like it was missing real bad. I tried all combinations of new and old points and condenser, and even borrowed a coil from a friend and still nothing. We then took the top off the carb ( 2 barrel), and sucked all the old gas out and filled the bowl with "good" gas, put it all back together and it started up immediately, like there was never any problem. For a week or so I would just start it and let it run and shut it off, then I got brave and tried to drive it. It died 1/2 block from my house and I limped home popping and farting ( the car, LOL).

Back to square 1 now. I have 5 # fuel pressure and a "professionally" rebuilt carb, and the same tune up parts from before.

Now it cranks strong and even, I'm getting gas in the carb, (I even tried pouring gas in the carb and using starting fluid) and still no start. Checking further I do have spark from the coil and a good spark at the points, but nothing to the plugs, I tried several cylinders, and no spark. I know this is probably a no brainer, but what am I missing? This was so intermittant, running rough, then not, I must be missing something basic...........IDEAS???? :help:
Had similar issue, mine was the distributor. AutoZone new. Somehow the dist stopped allowing coil to collapse therefore soaking plugs with fuel. I am on my third one in a few weeks. Currently on the hunt for an OE one.

 

Don C

Fords Forever
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
8,113
Reaction score
873
Location
Springfield, OR
My Car
1971 Mustang Sportroof M code
One other thing that can cause your symptoms is if the breaker plate ground wire came loose.

 

Danno

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
606
Reaction score
1
Location
Mount Prospect Illinios
My Car
1972 Fastback, Sportsroof
Yes, I checked for spark from the coil lead to the block and a spark is present. although it's not as strong as the spark at the points. There is evidence of the rotor "spring" making contact with the button on the cap too. I checked continuity from the  "spring" to the arm that contacts the cylinder contacts in the cap, and that was good.

I still have the old cap, maybe I'll give that a try too, along with checking continuity from one end of the coil wire to the button inside the cap with the wire attached to the cap. The ground wire inside the distributor is tight, and I verified that it was grounded with a test light.  :thankyouyellow:

 

Don C

Fords Forever
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
8,113
Reaction score
873
Location
Springfield, OR
My Car
1971 Mustang Sportroof M code
You shouldn't be getting that much spark at the points, the condenser should be keeping it at a minimum, so you may have a bad condenser. If you're getting that much spark the points will quickly burn away. You may also be getting full 12 volts at the points instead of reduced voltage through the resistor.

 

Danno

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
606
Reaction score
1
Location
Mount Prospect Illinios
My Car
1972 Fastback, Sportsroof
Ok, I think I still have the old condenser somewhere, I'll give that a shot......thanks

 

Don C

Fords Forever
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
8,113
Reaction score
873
Location
Springfield, OR
My Car
1971 Mustang Sportroof M code
Measure the voltage at the + (positive) terminal on the coil with the points open and closed. When they're open you should get full battery voltage and when they're closed between 6 and 8 volts.

Did you verify that your breaker plate ground wire is functional?

 

Danno

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
606
Reaction score
1
Location
Mount Prospect Illinios
My Car
1972 Fastback, Sportsroof
Thanks for your help! The voltage checks were within limits so I removed the small ground wire from inside the distributor and cleaned both ends with emery cloth as well as the attach areas inside the distributor, also at this time the "old" condenser was installed. I turned the key and it started right up like it never had a problem. Fast forward to this morning. Before I tried to start it, I reinstalled the "new" condenser. I tried to start it and it just cranked and cranked, no start, WTF????? I then reinstalled the "old" condenser, and it fired right up. I was even able to go for a short confidence drive for about 10 minutes, everything seems fine now. The only problem I had was that it smoked pretty much, hoping that's just from the many many start attempts over the last few months  Thanks again for your help!! :thankyouyellow:

 
Top