T5 conversion questions

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Animal Lawyer

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I am about to do a t5 conversion and have a few questions for anyone who has already done it. My 73 Q code vert currently has a 4 speed toploader, I have acquired a 1985 t5 (1352-018) along with an [SIZE=14pt]E6ZR-6394-AA [/SIZE] bell housing.

I am trying to decide whether to keep the original bell housing and use the adapter plate (which one of the articles said can cause alignment problems) or use the T5 bellhousing and have the shop do the block and pivot modification (which means additional labor and there will be no rubber cover keeping road grit out of the opening). 

From what I have read, if I use my original bellhousing I most likely will not need to shorten the drive shaft and there is a lot less labor, and I don't need to change the flywheel or starter and there is no question about the z-bar linkage working properly.

I am open to any input.

I also am questioning what shifter to use? An original 1985 Mustang T5 shifter along with a 12" Hurst 5388022 shifter stick or go for a short shifter like the pro 5.0 for the T5 (I can het a used one in near new condition for $100 that came on a 1992 mustang) or is there a better choice? I'd like the shift knob (a Hurst Tbar) to sit  as close to the same height and position as my 4 speed Hurst currently sits as reasonably possible. 

I will also swapping my 1973 Q code 351c for a rebuilt 1970 351c with a mild cam (based on the dyno results, I have no information about the cam at all) which dyno'd at around 340 hp at 5400 rpm before changing the manifold to the Blue Thunder , 

Finally, I want to keep the ram air, as my car is a '73 vert, my understanding is the motor mounts are about an inch lower than the 71 & 72. That being so, do I need to have the carb pad on the manifold cut down to lower the carb further before I have the manifold installed, or will it be close enough that can I squeeze it under the hood (possibly by cutting or compressing the rubber seal (I'd rather not spend the extra $150  to have the ,machine shop shave the pad down the 1/8-1/4" I might be able to get, but will if I have to). With my recent accident and the loss of 2 fingers I am unable to modify the air cleaner myself and I have no body local that I know with the welding skills to do it correctly (and I am sure the labor costs will be considerable (due to the accident I have been out from work and if I didn't  already have 90% of the parts I would not be able to do this now, but I still need to budget carefully).

Thanks in advance for any input, if there are other concerns I should be considering, please tell me, if there are better ways to accomplish this I am all ears 

Rich

 
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Gosh I did not hear about your accident, that sucks that you lost fingers.
I have the same set up for my track days car build but have not got into the specifics of fit up. The 351 does use a different flywheel than the 302, balance is different.
I thought the 1973 engine sat 1" higher not lower?? Someone will know for sure.
The one I bought came with a Hurst shifter do not know the model or anything about it.

So I will be watching your build also to gain some inside information on the changes.

Why would trash get inside? Can you not install the boot back on the clutch fork?

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Q1SVT

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I will also swapping my 1973 Q code 351c for a rebuilt 1970 351c with a mild cam (based on the dyno results, I have no information about the cam at all) which dyno'd at around 340 hp at 5400 rpm before changing the manifold to the Blue Thunder , 

Finally, I want to keep the ram air, as my car is a '73 vert, my understanding is the motor mounts are about an inch lower than the 71 & 72. That being so, do I need to have the carb pad on the manifold cut down to lower the carb further before I have the manifold installed, or will it be close enough that can I squeeze it under the hood (possibly by cutting or compressing the rubber seal (I'd rather not spend the extra $150  to have the ,machine shop shave the pad down the 1/8-1/4" I might be able to get, but will if I have to). With my recent accident and the loss of 2 fingers I am unable to modify the air cleaner myself and I have no body local that I know with the welding skills to do it correctly (and I am sure the labor costs will be considerable (due to the accident I have been out from work and if I didn't  already have 90% of the parts I would not be able to do this now, but I still need to budget carefully).

Thanks in advance for any input, if there are other concerns I should be considering, please tell me, if there are better ways to accomplish this I am all ears 

Rich
ALL 1971-73 Convertible Cougars & Mustangs have the engine 1"lower in the bay, same for all 429CJ's... Ford did it by using a different ENGINE PEDESTAL / FRAME BRACKET - CONVERTIBLE AND 429CJ  - not the motor mounts, or differences on the engine block attachments.

1973 motor mounts are different but that was due to 1973 safety standards, but the spacing are no different 71-73

RAM-AIR - ford did not change the height of the 351C 4V intakes, and yes Blue Thunder is about an 1" higher.  All 351c 2V intakes are 1" higher than the 4V's... and ford offered Ram-Air 71-73 for both 2V & 4V...   I am not aware if ford using different bases... or different seals on Mustangs 2V/4V  my guess is they just fit either way  since there seems to be only one seal part number D1ZZ-9B624-A

 
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I installed a late model 5.0L and T-5 into a 72 that had a 302/ 3-spd.

I used the 5.0L bellhousing and a cable conversion kit from Modern Driveline.

I can't remember what I did for a trans cross member but there are more options for this now vs. when I did the swap.

I am not sure about the differences in 71-72 vs. 73 engine mounts.

 

Animal Lawyer

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I finally found a good used tranny 1352-199, and I am using the T5 bellhousing which will be modified with the spacer and fulcrum from MDL for the z-bar.  Any suggestions as to the best clutch to get for this setup. Car is a 1973 Vert with a 1970 351c and a mild cam making about 350 hp @ 5400 rpm. Blue Thunder manifold, Street Avenger 680 cfm carb , hooker headers and dual exhaust and a 9" 3.25:1 posi rear. Will be used mainly as a driver (with the occasional light to light.

 
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I'm using a Centerforce II in mine. Been in there nearly 12 years now without issue apart from it's a bit on the heavy side. Oilite bushings in the connecting rods, Mustang Steve's clutch pivot bearing on the pedal and very important with a (any) diaphragm style clutch, remove the old helper spring, BUT be very careful how you do it. 

If and when I need a new clutch, I think I'll look at the Centerforce Dual Friction. Friends who use one, love it.

Clutch set-up.pdf

 

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droptop73

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I have been running a Rhino Pack parts store replacement clutch with a diaphragm pressure plate for nearly 10 years now. When I had the engine and trans out over the winter it showed negligible wear. I would recommend it as a good budget based option.  

 
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