The car was originally a factory A/C car. I replaced the factory unit with a modern system from Classic Auto Air. I replaced the radiator with a copper factory replacement. It has the original factory A/C shroud and fan.
I had posted here back then about overheating and suspected not enough air flow in traffic. Actually planned to install electric fans next summer. It was confusing to me that since it was originally a factory A/C car why the problem should surface when I replaced the factory system.
My thermostat concerns surfaced again now that the air temp is in the 40's to high 50's but the engine doesn't warm up to near the thermostat rating.
Excuse my lack of understanding about how the cooling system works, but I thought that in cooler weather the thermostat should remain closed until near its rating, then it would open and then cycle on an off as needed to maintain that temp. I thought that in hot weather the same thing would happen and when it opened, cooler water from the radiator would cycle it closed, giving the fan/radiator time to cool the fluid some and on and on.
If it stays open all the time once it reaches near its rating, why run one at all?
Ok, I'm still confused.
It sounds to me like you are now saying that it did not run hot before you changed any parts, is this correct?
Is your water pump stock?
Is your t stat bypass plate firmly in place?
You did not tell me exactly what radiator you installed so I can't help you there but you can take a photo of the top of the rad rubes, and measure the thickness of the core (not the tanks) then the spacing of the tubes from center to center.
As far as the engine temp not getting up to the t stat rating in cold weather, you did not tell us exactly what temp it does get to, but yes, it is possible the t stat is stuck open, but this is an easy thing to check.
Your understanding of how the cooling system works is correct, but there is also a "bypass" system on most cooling systems that allows some coolant to continuously flow thru the system all the time but this is usually a passage that is only around 1/" in diameter at the most.
The more info you supply, the better.
Also tommy k's timing suggestion is good, and I can tell you how to set it close to the optimum level for your particular car if you want, but my guess is that even if your timing is off, it will not be causing all of your problems, so you will still likely need to address another area as well.
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I really don't know if the car had always run hot. I bought in late October and drove it some over the winter. The factory A/C did not work and heat controls only worked on 1 setting. I do remember it running hot due to losing coolant out of the leaking radiator.
The replacement radiator was supposed to be a factory A/C car 3-row I think.
I did not know that there was a Cleveland specific thermostat until I joined this forum. When replacing the radiator, I decided to replace all related components except the water pump. Several post here recommended the tmeyer unit as he was supposed to have the original tooling for the correct style with the "hat". I chose a 195 degree thermostat and the correct restrictor. I found that the thermostat in the motor was a standard Windsor-Type.
Got the new A/C system installed and running in June or July this year and immediately noticed overheating in traffic and would run around 200 on the highway.
Now that weather is cooler, it only gets to 180-185. Running stock water pump.
Haven't checked timing but car runs good with no issues or evidence of timing problems. I used to set timing on my cars by setting it up for optimum advance (34 degrees?) at 2500-2600 rpm or whenever all advance was all in. Then let initial timing fall where it may. If that won't work on a Cleveland then please advise.
I guess the easiest thing to do is to first check the thermostat with the hot water test.
I'll measure the radiator to see if it is correct for a factory A/C car.
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