thoughts on aftermarked nasa hood

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what are your thoughts on the aftermarket nasa hoods?  I have an original hood but it is in need of a lot of work, Do repair or replace with aftermarket? Has anyone had any problems with them?

 

mudbilly

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I bought mine from CJpony about 10 years ago. Fit fine. Came on a skid sitting upright on a truck delivered to where I work, needed a fork lift to get off the truck. I don't remember if they would deliver to a residence?

 

Omie01

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I plan on getting one at some point. The only couple things I have heard is that sometimes you have to bow them to your fenders, and that they do not come welded at the seams. That you have to fit it and then plug weld some places around the pinch or crimp of the outer layer to the inner layer, but mostly it sounds like they fit ok.

 
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With an original hood there will be rust inside between the layers that cannot be addressed.

Yes the Dynacorn hood will have to be bowed to match your fenders. This is common with all repo hoods for any model car. That is why they do not spot weld the hem nor do they seal it.

Be sure to remove all the black E-coat from the outside. They have rust under it sometimes that can ruin a perfect paint job in years to come.

There is no e-coat between the layers of a new hood either so get some of the Eastwood spray cans and the long wands to coat inside the reinforcement and hood.

When you do your argent or black if you add do not use the templates or info on MM they are wrong.

 
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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:
With an original hood there will be rust inside between the layers that cannot be addressed.

Yes the Dynacorn hood will have to be bowed to match your fenders. This is common with all repo hoods for any model car. That is why they do not spot weld the hem nor do they seal it.

Be sure to remove all the black E-coat from the outside. They have rust under it sometimes that can ruin a perfect paint job in years to come.

There is no e-coat between the layers of a new hood either so get some of the Eastwood spray cans and the long wands to coat inside the reinforcement and hood.

When you do your argent or black if you add do not use the templates or info on MM they are wrong.
 

mustang7173

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I had my flat hood stripped (dipped in acid) primed with some good primer. Body man worked it up and painted it very nicely. A month ago, we were looking under the hood, and he noticed the right edge near the back of the hood. He said, "You have rust forming in the seam!" Look at how wavy the seam is. Dang gum-it!

I have been working with Don @ OMS for a new hood. I have already bought the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, mentioned by Carolina Mountain Mustangs.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

Recommend to use in any mustang internal frame to prevent corrosion.

 
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mustang7173 said:
I had my flat hood stripped (dipped in acid) primed with some good primer. Body man worked it up and painted it very nicely. A month ago, we were looking under the hood, and he noticed the right edge near the back of the hood. He said, "You have rust forming in the seam!" Look at how wavy the seam is. Dang gum-it!

I have been working with Don @ OMS for a new hood. I have already bought the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, mentioned by Carolina Mountain Mustangs.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

Recommend to use in any mustang internal frame to prevent corrosion.
 
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You can also with some help pour some POR inside the hood and rotate so that it goes into the seam of the hem. Rotate the hood and that will get into the tiny places. Then spray the coating inside the frame.

People think that when they e-coat something that the inside gets coated also but not so. There is not enough room in there to get a flow of the coating and the electricity to draw the paint to the finish is not there. The solution in the tank is not all paint I think only about 20% is paint and the remainder is actually water.

I cleaned a used filler panel out of a vert in my molasses and did the POR inside of it to seal it up. That is another area prone to rust. Filler between trunk and top. Thought I had pics but do not see them.

 

OzCoupe72

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Like you I have a standard hood that is not worth repairing but might have a go at it if time permits so I bought a NASA hood and despite it traveling half way around the world it arrived unexpectedly perfect. Like others have stated you will no doubt need to address the bow. I actually did a combination of shims for the fenders and then massaged the hood while it was installed and got it although not perfect certainly acceptable to me. I was worried with the thinner sheet metal of the hood I could end up creasing it so will live with a slight bow.

I will use a cavity wax later to help protect inside the frame and like David stated removed the e-coat on top and just scuffed underneath. Must be said that although hood arrived undamaged it did need quite a bit of work to get perfectly straight.

 

delawarebill

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when i got my stang 2+ yrs ago it came with aftermkt nasa hood. my suggestion is before u paint put it on and make sure the lines line up and the arc is not to high. my is to high an arc but painted and i'm not willing to block it and fix for i don't want to mess up the paint.

 

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In my opinion they are flimsy junk..... had all kinds of problems with one on a mustang I did a couple years ago. But....... its all we have to work with so you make it work. Definitely pre-fit before paint. Get the arch where you want it. Weld the seam underneath. Everything everyone has said so far is spot on. I just think they are much more flimsy than a factory hood. Lighter sheetmetal. I know I will be repairing my original when I repaint mine in a few years. Another thing I noticed is that it seemed to be a touch narrower than factory. I would like to see the hood to fender gap just a touch smaller. But the only way to get that would be to weld a 1/8" rod down both sides of the hood and grind to fit perfect. They can be made to look very nice, just takes some work.

 
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