Throw Out Bearing Worn - Replace Whole Clutch?

[icejawa]

Hii again,

So I heard a whirring while I was sitting around in neutral on my Manual 4 speed toploader, 351C-4V 1971 Mach. Took the clutch assembly out and sure enough throw out bearing is all worn out. I think in my opinion it would be easier to just replace the whole clutch instead of changing out the throw out bearing?

I would welcome advice and also if I should replace the whole clutch, what is one that has worked for any of you on a 500+ HP build? I'll have to take another look at which aftermarket clutch the previous owner put in, I believe it was a McLeod.

Thanks again

 

[Bentworker]

What kind of torque numbers you plan on making?

 

[icejawa]

What kind of torque numbers you plan on making?

I would prefer at least 430 lb/ft of torque @5000 RPM, I think it should be easy to achieve

 

[midlife]

To replace the throw-out bearing, you have to remove the tranny from the engine. From there, the clutch plate and clutch disk are easy bolt-off, bolt-on affairs, so you should replace them at the same time. If you're really smart, remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced as well. If the flywheel shows signs of burning or slight warping, that condition will immediately damage the new clutch assembly.

And since you're going that far, an engine rebuild, a repainting, complete suspension replacement and interior replacement is not far behind...*G*

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

To replace the throw-out bearing, you have to remove the tranny from the engine.  From there, the clutch plate and clutch disk are easy bolt-off, bolt-on affairs, so you should replace them at the same time.  If you're really smart, remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced as well.  If the flywheel shows signs of burning or slight warping, that condition will immediately damage the new clutch assembly.  

And since you're going that far, an engine rebuild, a repainting, complete suspension replacement and interior replacement is not far behind...*G*

LOL that is the way it goes isn't it. Just a little change and the whole car falls apart.

 

[Stanglover]

Just last Thursday night at our weekly A&W get-together, we were talking about clutches. One guy has a Fairlane with a high HP 428 CJ in it and he runs a Centerforce Dual Friction. Several others with high HP cars also run the dual friction without issues. The guy with the Fairlane said he had a McLeod, but it was too heavy on the leg.

I have a Centerforce 2 in my 351C 4V 4 Speed and I'm starting to think it is not strong enough now I finally got my engine dialed in. I'll go Centerforce Dual Friction next time I take it all apart again!! In my case I modified the clutch shaft bushings to bearings using Mustang Steve's bearing kit. I would absolutely recommend this be done while you're at pulling it all apart again. I was upgrading my brakes to a factory booster, so I had the pedals out anyway. No brainer!

As for resurfacing the flywheel, this is a MUST, not an option. Good throw out bearings are available at a good bearing supplier. I used the old cast original housing and just replaced the bearing. That way you know you don't have Chinese crap in there.

 

[c9zx]

RAM Power grip or McLeod Super Street Pro should work fine, without slicks or drag radials. Chuck

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I'm in the other camp. If your current clutch is not giving you problems, just replace the throw out bearing. Yes you may have to do it again, but it may be years and you will save a fair bit of change.

 

[Don C]

I'm with the replace it all, especially when you have other upgrades to the engine planned. I like the idea of the roller bearing retrofit, too, less friction, and no sloppy bushings. I also agree with getting the flywheel resurfaced, or replaced if heat checked/cracked. Hard enough doing it once. Many times I've said to myself, why didn't I go ahead and do that the first time...

 

[Bentworker]

I have zero clutch experience as to who is a good vendor to use. I'd try to do a little backwards research on the exact clutch you have. Maybe what you have is worth keeping... you never know. It is a balancing act, you don't want to burn the friction disk up, but you also don't want your left foot shaking because it takes so much effort to press the pedal down. Also excessive pressure can do other harm like thrust bearing damage, and / or shorten your throw out bearing life. In unlimited money land I'd try out one of the dual disk setups. Lots of holding power with reasonable pedal effort.

 

[piper62j]

I'm with the "don't fix it if it ain't broke" crowd.. Definitely pull the clutch and inspect it for wear and damage. If there is plenty of material left on the disc, leave it in. Most times, the throwout bearing wears because the clutch pedal was not adjusted properly, or the driver rests a foot on it all the time.

 

[icejawa]

Going to replace the whole assembly since I got the car with this whirring noise happening - the disc is pretty worn. I ride the clutch hard because of my shift linkage being sticky and I am too lazy to wiggle to neutral a million times because of it. I will redo the linkage clips and bushings too, it only costs $15 for new clips and bushings

 

[Stanglover]

Going to replace the whole assembly since I got the car with this whirring noise happening - the disc is pretty worn. I ride the clutch hard because of my shift linkage being sticky and I am too lazy to wiggle to neutral a million times because of it. I will redo the linkage clips and bushings too, it only costs $15 for new clips and bushings

 Seriously, don't waste the 15 bucks. If you're having a hard time with the clutch linkage, spend the extra and have the bearings put in.

Just my experience and definitely what I would do again if I had to. It is a PITA to get the bracket out I will admit, but you'll be a happy camper when it's done.

Geoff.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

When I went though mine, most of the holes in the Z bar were egged out. I welded them up and redrilled them and it made a tremendous difference.

 

[Stanglover]

I ride the clutch hard because of my shift linkage being sticky and I am too lazy to wiggle to neutral a million times because of it.

  Maybe it's just me and not to be critical of others driving techniques or style, but any time I stop, traffic light or whatever unless on an incline, (we don't have hills around here thankfully!) I always pull it to neutral with my foot firmly on the brake. Saves the throw out bearing too!.This is the way I was taught 50 years ago in England. What does make it hard on our cars is the fact that North America never figured out what a "Hand Brake" was actually for. It's main purpose is for control as we don't have three feet and most of the cars do not allow for 'toe & heel'. More modern manual cars now have the hand brake, but most drivers don't use it other than for parking or "emergencies". Now there's an oxymoron. If you ever had an emergency and you yank up on the HB, you'll pitch it sideways. Ask me how I know! Next time you're stopped on an incline, apply the HB and rest you right leg. Slowly release the HB as you pull away, no roll-back to scare the driver behind who's up your as*.

Just thought I'd mention this.

 

[Stanglover]

When I went though mine, most of the holes in the Z bar were egged out.  I welded them up and redrilled them and it made a tremendous difference.

Mine too, but then I inserted bronze bushings as well. I did that on all the bushings and it does make a huge difference.