- Jun 10, 2014
- Reaction score
- United States
- My Car
1972 Ford Mustang Mach 1 bright red, standard black interior,pb,ps
gauge package.rim blow steering wheel,15" magnum 500s,351 C 2bbl running a 4bbl Holley 600,MSD 6a with stock distributor and Pertronix,Comp cam mild grind, The Engine(rebuilt by me in 2002 for the second time the first rebuild I did was stock in 1995) made 305hp and 358 lb ft on the dyno. 9" 2.75 rear end,Global west sub frame connectors,620 front coils.Rear defroster. My parents bought my car brand new the year before I was born. I cherish it like my child.
If it were my car I would first try a different carb. It is still much cheaper than buying an EFI set up. Be aware Re: new Holleys they have had some quality control issues. I like having my one car that does not require my scan tools to diagnose. I ran a street Avenger 770 briefly many years ago and it did not work well no matter how I jetted it. I returned it and Summit gave me a full refund. I went back to my Holley 80457 600 cfm 4160 that I converted to a 4150 with secondary metering block kit. It still works great after over 20 years.So, I swapped the engine, stock '73 oc 351c to '71 cc 351c with mild cam and oil mods w/ blue thunder manifold (+ ~100hp) Hookers (the less expensive painted long tube model) and upgraded from a toploader to (eventually, after a host of problems with the 1st T5) a T5 z-spec. kept the Holley-rebuilt SA670 carb.
No matter how much adjustring, the carb kept popping on acceleration and puffing black soot (only see that when the car is starting to move, I assume it does it at speed but cant see the fine black powder then. I'm told it's from dumping too much fuel) and the electric choke never seemed to work correctly (or the mechanic, who I tend to trust really couldn't get the carb dialed in correctly) Finally, on Wednesday, the car lost power on the parkway, necessitating a tow (thank heaven for Haggerty Driver's club). Turns out choke was jammed shut and the fast idle cam was damaged. He also says the idle adjustment is not working 100% and he thinks there may be internal damage from the small backfires., but it is running well now.
Started thinking about switching to efi (though part of the reason I decided to switch to a muscle car full-time was because I was sick of asking my bmw's ecu "mother may I?" every time I did anything. (Went from 50+ fuses and relays to 7 fuses and 3 relays, and a whole different set of headaches). So, I'm not sure I want to go back to computer controlled engine/fuel, but I am doing my due diligence.
I have read about various issues with the swap, including needing new fuel pump, tank, lines, header issues and needing to swap distributor (I have duraspark now) bringing the cost and frustration factor up there. I am interested in suggestions about whether to swap and if so which manufacturer and model, or if not, whether to stay with the Street Avenger 670 or go to a different carb (I have read a lot of negative comments about the SA carbs0.
Alternatively, if anyone knows a real good carb guy on Long Island, I would welcome the recommendation, and hopefully can get it all sorted out.
Thanks in advance, luckily I always have my horse Chevy to relieve the stress (Mine's the paint on the right)
View attachment 57094