Torque Pitman arm nut

[timachone]

I am on my steering linkage at the moment and concerning torque of the pitman arm nut, with almost 150 ft lbs there is quite something going. 

How do you manage to torque that nut without the steering wheel turning or perhaps braking the lock on the key cylinder? 

Any tricks are appreciated  :thumb:

 

[Stanglover]

Tim, I'm not sure this will help, but I've done mine 2-3 times now after rebuilding steering boxes. What I found that really helped was to, a) make sure the splines were totally clean and (copper) anti-seize applied, b) double check that the orientation is correct and then gently tighten the nut (1 5/16" socket) until it's tight with a reg 1/2" drive ratchet . I then block the wheel(s) and torque in stages, but 150 ft/lbs minimum (book shows 150-225 ft/lbs.). is quite a lot especially if you're laying on your back under the car!! Most mechanics would just use an impact wrench set for 150 + ft/lbs. I would also suggest using a NEW spring washer as well.

Good'n'tight might not be enough here!!

 

[timachone]

Tim, I'm not sure this will help, but I've done mine 2-3 times now after rebuilding steering boxes. What I found that really helped was to, a) make sure the splines were totally clean and (copper) anti-seize applied, b) double check that the orientation is correct and then gently tighten the nut (1 5/16" socket) until it's tight with a reg 1/2" drive ratchet . I then block the wheel(s) and torque in stages, but 150 ft/lbs minimum (book shows 150-225 ft/lbs.). is quite a lot especially if you're laying on your back under the car!! Most mechanics would just use an impact wrench set for 150 + ft/lbs. I would also suggest using a NEW spring washer as well.

Good'n'tight might not be enough here!!

Thanks Geoff for chiming in! 

I have all fresh there, nut, spring washer and pitman arm. Orientation was easy because between manifolds and frame there was only one possibility to take the pitman arm with it's special teeth in. 

But how to block off the horizontal movements? I have no wheels on yet... If I begin to torque with the steering wheel lock in I feel the resistance but I am concerned about breaking something. Should I open the steering wheel lock, turn fully right until the spindles stop at their stop on the lower control arms and then torque? 

 

[Bentworker]

I don't think you will harm you column at all no matter what method you choose.  That being said there is no harm in unlocking the steering wheel and letting the steering box go to full lock to allow you to torque the nut without reefing on anything.

 

[timachone]

Thanks Bentworker for your opinion, that makes my concerns calming down. After all I removed the nut that way you mentioned but as it was a bit on the loose side as so many bolts and nuts on the car I was a bit concerned about the reassembling with full torque... 

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks Bentworker for your opinion, that makes my concerns calming down. After all I removed the nut that way you mentioned but as it was a bit on the loose side as so many bolts and nuts on the car I was a bit concerned about the reassembling with full torque... 

+1 as Bentworker says imho. You'll need to torque with the pitman arm against the direction of force of course. Also as you are doing it by hand methods, I'd re torque it later, just to be sure it hasn't loosened up.

Wait a minute, that doesn't make sense. What I mean is turn the lock so when you tighten, the pitman arm stay tight against it's "stop". Does that even make sense!!

 

[timachone]

Geoff, yes, that makes sense - I will do so. Tighten in that direction the pitman arm or the steering linkage it is connected to already is locked through the stop on the lower control arm.

 

[Stanglover]

Geoff, yes, that makes sense - I will do so. Tighten in that direction the pitman arm or the steering linkage it is connected to already is locked through the stop on the lower control arm.

Glad you figured out what I was trying to say!!