The post that Don is referring to has pretty much all you'll need to set up the timing, with some excellent information. It is daunting at first, but once you start understanding what and why, it's actually quite fun playing with it. I would just remind you to make sure the distributor base area is clean before you move or remove the dizzy. You don't want any dirt getting in. Also mark its current position as a start point.
From my experience, mega as it is, you made a good start with the Pertronix II, but did you dismantle, clean and re-lube the baseplate? It needs to be free moving to get the best out of the P II. Another tip I can offer is to install socket head (hex) flat head screws. Done correctly, this will stop any unwanted movement of the baseplate.
Can you briefly remind us of your engine and trans and carb.
To rehash briefly what I did on my 71 351 C 4V manual trans, I dismantled the dizzy completely, added some weld to the right side of the L15 slot (looking down on it) and recut it to equal an L10 (.410") or 20* on the crank. L15 =30* and so on. Then I put in a Mr Gasket spring on the light side and readjusted the heavy spring with a bit more tension. I then set my initial to 14* giving 34* total mechanical advance as a start point. With my brand new shiny adjustable timing light, I set it to these numbers @ 3000 rpm. I think I can get a bit more out of it with a bit more tweaking of springs. At this time, I set the adjustable vac. can to only about 3-4* of vacuum advance for a total of 37-38*. It seems to run well on this without pinging.
Hope you find the "sweet spot"! Also, glad you are finding the "other" issues and getting them sorted.
Geoff.
Certainly. It is a 351C 4V M code. 4 speed. From the little research I have done one the carb it is a Holley 600 CFM. I did not relube the dizzy plate but I can. I am going to put the engine back together today. Hopefully I will have fixed the ticking and vibration issues I had.
Ok, so you have the same engine as mine. My numbers seem to be working quite well, but as I said, I'm still going to 'play' with it some more later, got other issues to sort first.
Once you get all the vibration wows behind you, you might want to paly with carbs, just as a suggestion. If you do have a 600 Holley, you might want to go up to at least a 670 or 750. I have a 670 Street Avenger that runs well, but needed a bit of work to get the idle air ratio better. My tuner guy drilled a 3/32" hole in each primary throttle plate to get the ratio right. It was idling way too rich. If I was buying a new carb and I might yet, it would be a Quick Fuel 750.
On the dizzy, I use ported vacuum off the carb as it doesn't need advance at idle.
Let us know when you have it running and vibration free
Good luck with it,
Geoff.