Vinegar bath for spindles

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I would say suspend the spindles, or stand them up in such a way that the ground surface is not submerged in vinegar or whatever other concoction you come up with.

And as far as "bearing surface", the bearings don't spin on the spindle. The bearing race sits on the spindle, and the rollers roll in the race. It shouldn't affect anything even if the ground surface of the spindle is pitted, scratched, or etched. So long as you don't remove so much material that you change the dimensions of the metal.
 
I would say suspend the spindles, or stand them up in such a way that the ground surface is not submerged in vinegar or whatever other concoction you come up with.

And as far as "bearing surface", the bearings don't spin on the spindle. The bearing race sits on the spindle, and the rollers roll in the race. It shouldn't affect anything even if the ground surface of the spindle is pitted, scratched, or etched. So long as you don't remove so much material that you change the dimensions of the metal.
I really appreciate it. There was something about protecting the area that I still couldn’t recall even after Hemikiller responded to a post I made several months back.
Edited: actually, had enough room in the bucket I transferred everything to over the weekend. I though my soak level was closer to top

image.jpg
Thanks !
 
Last edited:
Invest in some EvapoRust. You'll be amazed.
I did. $36.00 per gallon versus $2.47 gallon.
Since I was making a very large dip tank, what I paid for 19 gallons of vinegar would have only paid for one gallon of the Evapo-rust.
 
The benefit of evaporust is that it won't consume the base metal, only the iron oxide. A similar, but less effective, result can be had from a dilute mixture of feed-grade molasses and water. 9 parts water to 1 part molasses. The molasses takes a week or 2, but gives pretty impressive results. Evaporust and molasses both work on a process called Chelation. Both of these will dissolve the iron-oxide but not the base metal (with exceptions I outline below).

If you search, use "molasses chelation" and you should get many hits. I've used it very successfully on hundreds of parts, but have had 2 mishaps that I'll share....don't want anyone else to make the same mistakes. I left some sheet metal braces in the tank for at least 6 months....the tank had evaporated probably 20% of the water away.....the parts came out pitted in some areas....that was the first time that had ever happened and, by far, the longest soak. Bottom line, it was my fault for leaving them so long. The 2nd case was a std bore cleveland block I had planned to rebuild. I had mixed a fresh batch and due to circumstances, did not follow the 9:1 ratio.....it was probably closer to 6 or 7:1. I left the block soaking for 3 weeks. Again, there was some strange pitting in certain parts of the block and none in others....it was really strange. That being said, I've left parts to soak for several weeks and had no issue with the 9:1 ratio....typically, 2 weeks is all that is needed.

Stay with 9:1 and don't forget your parts and let them soak for months....pay more attention to cast iron parts.

This is a pair of headers that were leaned against an outside wall for something like 20+ years. This was after a 2 week soak and power wash right out of the tank.

Edited first paragraph.
 

Attachments

  • 20151011_161835-comp.jpg
    20151011_161835-comp.jpg
    134 KB
  • 20150927_100009-comp.jpg
    20150927_100009-comp.jpg
    122.5 KB
Last edited:
The benefit of evaporust is that it won't consume the base metal, only the iron oxide. A similar, but less effective, result can be had from a dilute mixture of feed-grade molasses and water. 9 parts water to 1 part molasses. The molasses takes a week or 2, but gives pretty impressive results. Evaporust and molasses both work on a process called Chelation. Both of these will dissolve the iron-oxide but not the base metal (with exceptions I outline below).

If you search, use "molasses chelation" and you should get many hits. I've used it very successfully on hundreds of parts, but have had 2 mishaps that I'll share....don't want anyone else to make the same mistakes. I left some sheet metal braces in the tank for at least 6 months....the tank had evaporated probably 20% of the water away.....the parts came out pitted in some areas....that was the first time that had ever happened and, by far, the longest soak. Bottom line, it was my fault for leaving them so long. The 2nd case was a std bore cleveland block I had planned to rebuild. I had mixed a fresh batch and due to circumstances, did not follow the 9:1 ratio.....it was probably closer to 6 or 7:1. I left the block soaking for 3 weeks. Again, there was some strange pitting in certain parts of the block and none in others....it was really strange. That being said, I've left parts to soak for several weeks and had no issue with the 9:1 ratio....typically, 2 weeks is all that is needed.

Stay with 9:1 and don't forget your parts and let them soak for months....pay more attention to cast iron parts.

This is a pair of headers that were leaned against an outside wall for something like 20+ years. This was after a 2 week soak and power wash right out of the tank.

Edited first paragraph.
+1 on the molasses, works very well. One more thing not to do though, don't put aluminum or zinc (pot metal) in it.
 
I received this tech tip from Eastwood today, it looks like their rust remover product works well without having to soak the rusted part for a lengthy period of time. It also looks like what rust it doesn't remove is converted to zinc phosphate. I remember seeing it in their online catalog, but just assumed it was like the others. I could have used it on the insides of my front fenders, but I have already wire brushed and converted/encapsulated the surface rust on them.
https://www.eastwood.com/promotions...mlEngaged+Plus+Retail&sc_eh=8ed16565fe1337a41
 
I received this tech tip from Eastwood today, it looks like their rust remover product works well without having to soak the rusted part for a lengthy period of time. It also looks like what rust it doesn't remove is converted to zinc phosphate. I remember seeing it in their online catalog, but just assumed it was like the others. I could have used it on the insides of my front fenders, but I have already wire brushed and converted/encapsulated the surface rust on them.
https://www.eastwood.com/promotions/tech-tips-eastwood.html?trkcode=1EM9858&sc_src=email_2473641&sc_lid=270134425&sc_uid=yBuEQ5cbNi&sc_llid=96569&utm_source=Emarsys&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=1EM9858+Tech+Tip+Conquer+Custom+Fast+Etch&utm_term=IMAGE+1EM9858-Tech-Tip-Conquer-Custom-Fast-Etch-Email.gifwww.eastwood.com/promotions/tech-tips-eastwood.htmlEngaged+Plus+Retail&sc_eh=8ed16565fe1337a41

I used this Metal Blast product with Rust Bullet....is seems similar to the Eastwood product except the Eastwood is leaving behind somewhat of a protective zinc phosphate coating...at least that's how I interpreted it. No idea how well the coating preserves the metal.
 
I've been using vinegar rust removal for some time now and in my opinion 1 or 2 days in a vinegar bath would not damage the spindal in any way. Vinegar is a really, really light acid and you can immediately stop the reaction by just washing it away with soapy water.
As the vinegar removes the rust some metal can look pitted but this is only because the the hole was full of rust in the first place. Some people have mistaken the pitting as the metal going brittle.
Any flash rust afterwards can be removed with a wire brush on a grinder or electric drill or to minimise damage; with a stainless steel pad.
I think you will be happy with the results. :cool: Vern
 
There might also be another way of removing rust. I have not tried this method, but may try it to see if it works.
I was watching an episode of "Combat Dealers", a UK show where they go out looking for WWII relics to restore and sell to collectors. In this episode, they had retrieved an anti-tank weapon that had been buried since the war. It was covered with rust scale that was in need of removal. Their method was similar to electroplating in reverse. They had a tank filled with water which had soda added, no idea how much, but with an electrical current run through it, most of the surface rust was removed. They actually restored this weapon and fired it.
Just another thought to add to the mix.
 
Last edited:
I tried this electrolisis method before I settled on the vinegar. I think it has a place in the removal of rust and think it's place may be for larger applications with larger tanks and other equipment. (Especially WW2 tanks and Howitzers). Where the definitive line is drawn between large and small would probably be down to personel choice.
What I found was an extended time period and a really messy cleanup not only with the recipient item but also with the tank and electrodes. I'm not sure but I had a feeling that the electrolisis was more detrimental to the recipient item and the vinegar had a lot more latitude and flexibility.
BUT, I think its worth the while if you have the time and curiosity to experiment. It was sort of an interesting diversion.
VC :cool:
 
+1 for vinegar. You can even cut the vinegar almost in half with water (2.5% acid) and it still strips parts it to bare metal. I never tried molasses yet, but if the metal is already damaged/pitted seems like it would show up either way
 
WARNING: read what follows only if you want clean parts fast, and are not paranoid about toxic chemicals.

For several years I have had three tubs: sodium hydroxide for "dirt", muriatic acid for iron oxide, and water for in-between rinse.

Muriatic acid will dissolve iron oxide very quick - minutes usually, and base iron and steel very slow; so slow that the iron oxide will be gone long before the base metal is effected.

I used to think muriatic acid had no effect on base iron/steel, because after years of use, that is the way it worked. Then I forgot a hitch ball and nut for a couple days. When I pulled them out, they looked fine, but now the nut drops past the ball stud threads.

Don't get sodium hydroxide on skin, and don't breath muriatic acid fumes, or let it drip on concrete. Use outdoors.

I have five gallons of EvapoRust. I have never opened it because the samples they gave me did nothing. When I questioned the results, the rep said my parts must have been "dirty". They did not "look" dirty.
YMMV
 
I have five gallons of EvapoRust. I have never opened it because the samples they gave me did nothing. When I questioned the results, the rep said my parts must have been "dirty". They did not "look" dirty.
YMMV
The stuff works amazingly. But nowhere near as fast as minutes. I have to let things soak a day, two if they're dirty.

Its entirely possible though that you got a batch of bad product in the sample. Its worth giving it a second try. Especially if you already have 5 gallons.
 
WARNING: read what follows only if you want clean parts fast, and are not paranoid about toxic chemicals.

For several years I have had three tubs: sodium hydroxide for "dirt", muriatic acid for iron oxide, and water for in-between rinse.

Muriatic acid will dissolve iron oxide very quick - minutes usually, and base iron and steel very slow; so slow that the iron oxide will be gone long before the base metal is effected.

I used to think muriatic acid had no effect on base iron/steel, because after years of use, that is the way it worked. Then I forgot a hitch ball and nut for a couple days. When I pulled them out, they looked fine, but now the nut drops past the ball stud threads.

Don't get sodium hydroxide on skin, and don't breath muriatic acid fumes, or let it drip on concrete. Use outdoors.

I have five gallons of EvapoRust. I have never opened it because the samples they gave me did nothing. When I questioned the results, the rep said my parts must have been "dirty". They did not "look" dirty.
YMMV
Ya know, I’ve said a hundred times, that old slogan of being exposed to a myriad of various things and turning out alright. Well?
The airborne stuff is literally killing me now so, I’m not so much afraid as having learned a very valuable lesson that would equate to the collective of fathers slapping their sons in the back of the head simultaneously in the back of mine 🤪
Media blasting is causing it’s own complications but I don’t have another way since laying under the car scraping and brushing exposes me to the same stuff only longer.
Like the song says, “so I stood a a ridge and shucked religion thinking the world was mine….steal’n when I should’a been buy’n.”
Now I’m pay’n.
The vinegar, does the skin no good but it’s working. 😎
Time for the tyvec suit and respirator to media blast.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top