1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Mine looked terrible too. I ordered the reproduction ones and found they were painted in a cheap paint. So I got some of the black tool handle dip coating stuff, thinned it and dipped them for an original look.
You must drill out the rivets and use new ones.
The clips are actually called "Blow out Clips" and they are designed to keep the windows from popping out under certain pressure situations.
There have been a couple of post where these have been mentioned. I used standard pop rivets but I cut the length of the rivet down so there was hardly any head sticking up. The seal covers them nicely. Some people use stainless steel rivets also. Or you can use just the rivet without the shank and use a punch to flatten it out.
I found some really small flat head brass rivets. Im going to see if they have steel too. I think they were 1/16" I don't know if thats small enough. Im Going to keep looking. I need to get a caliper and measure them.
Mine were rusted but only on the surface. I ended up placing tape between the guide and trim. Sanded all the rust and repainted them with rust converter primer and liquid electrical tape to leave a slightly semi-flexible layer. I don't know if the liquid electrical tape was a good idea because it made it difficult to leave a smooth surface. However, they now look much better and it will require a very detailed person to notice that the surface is not smooth.
Use a really short grip range rivet to attach the guides. The only thing below them is the door weatherstripping anyway. You'll want to use a steel rivet, as aluminum would fail over time due to the flexing these do.
I'd highly recommend a set of the Osborn assembly manuals....
You won't find a correct rivet in a "pop" style. Those are steel tubular (or hollow) rivets applied with a hopper-fed rivet press. You have three choices - find a company that can rivet them factory style; buy the original style rivets, make a tool and flare them at home, or get a pop rivet that's close enough. You can flare them DIY if you make a tapered punch to flare them out, then use a flat punch to roll them down to clamp the material. If you want to go that route, carefully drill the head off of the rivets and measure the diameter of the hole, then the thickness of the trim and the guide. That'll tell you what you need for a rivet. McMaster-Carr carries a small selection of this type of rivet and might have what you need.
My reference to the Osborne books was actually a response to your question about the foam ont he channel you posted in a FB group. The book calls out the size of the foam tape, you can get that from McMaster as well, or use what is preferred today, 3M strip caulk.
WOW! mach71351c that looks great. I have been dealing with my other cars this week. You know how it goes, when 1 breaks they all break. My bronco has been down for a few months and ive been dragging my feet on working on it due to working on the mustang. Now my Durango lower ball joint decided to take a shit on me and its down till i can save up money to work on it. So I had to get the bronco working asap. I finally got it done last night good enough to drive, but still needs work. Hopefully the stuff to fix it comes in today and I can wrap that up and get back on this part of the mustang project. I only have one of the channel pieces cleaned, which took half a day. Still have to clean up the other 3 pieces. Then I have to rip out the weatherstripping the painter put on because he was an idiot and clean all that up before I can get the channel and drip rail on and can put the gasket back on. Man I hate having to repeat work that should have been done right the first time.