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Ryunker

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 8, 2018
Messages
176
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27
Location
Madison South Dakota
My Car
1971 Mach1 351C
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Took the cover off, wiped it down with a can of spray stuff, moved it over with a jack to the other side of the garage. Thats it. Did enjoy every minute
 

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Joined
Dec 10, 2017
Messages
575
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129
Location
Georgia
My Car
1973 Mach 1 "Q Code"
Removed my new Summit carb and new Edelbrock Performer 2750 intake manifold because it leaked like a sieve, Turns out the gasket set O'Reilly's sold me was for a Windsor motor. Got the new gasket set and will be re-installing this weekend hopefully.

Tom
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2019
Messages
277
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177
Location
Wisconsin
My Car
1972 Mustang convertible, 351C 2V with FMX (#'s matching)
Currently equipped with 351C 4V 4BM, .060 over, roller cam, Sanderson block huggers, -AC
O O O… Summit or Speedway is where you will get it right the first time.
 

351c1971

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
14
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16
Location
Bayville ,NJ
My Car
1971 Mach1
Removed my new Summit carb and new Edelbrock Performer 2750 intake manifold because it leaked like a sieve, Turns out the gasket set O'Reilly's sold me was for a Windsor motor. Got the new gasket set and will be re-installing this weekend hopefully.

Tom
I used the FEL-PRO MS 96010 Valley Pan Gasket Set and put the thin paper gasket between the aluminum Edelbrock Performer and the turkey pan gasket. No leaks with mine.

 
Joined
Dec 10, 2017
Messages
575
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129
Location
Georgia
My Car
1973 Mach 1 "Q Code"
I used the FEL-PRO MS 96010 Valley Pan Gasket Set and put the thin paper gasket between the aluminum Edelbrock Performer and the turkey pan gasket. No leaks with mine.

Thanks, that is the part number that I got this time. I appreciate the response, just reinstalled it. Will hopefully get the distributor and carb back in place later today, depending on if the rain holds off. I am working under a carport, so the weather can be a pain sometimes.

Tom
 

PeteG41

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2022
Messages
180
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57
Location
Tempe, AZ
My Car
351c 2v, FMX Transmission. Ordered from Sanderson Ford in Phoenix, 99k original miles.
Well while I’m waiting for funds to have my motor rebuilt, I figured I would address the glaring surface rust spots on my 73. Before you all get too critical, I’m not worried about what it looks like, since it will need to be painted anyways. But, sanded down the spots close to bare metal, have some rust reformer to hit those spots with, then will spray some gray enamel over the top to add some protection. Spent a quite a few hours on prep, but got way too windy so threw the cover on and will paint this weekend. Thoughts/suggestions?
 

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droptop73

Well-known member
Staff member
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
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Joined
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Location
Grand Rapids, MI
My Car
73 Convertible
I finally got my turn signals working. I found the housings grounding to the body causing the fuse to open. A bit of electrical tape, some shrink tube and rubber washers and VIOLA!! I didn't think the reproduction 71/72 housings needed to be insulated from the body. Oh well... now folks behind me know where I'm going, though I may not!
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2019
Messages
277
Reaction score
177
Location
Wisconsin
My Car
1972 Mustang convertible, 351C 2V with FMX (#'s matching)
Currently equipped with 351C 4V 4BM, .060 over, roller cam, Sanderson block huggers, -AC
Finally got my 15yr old hoops off of her and the new RTA’s mounted after polishing up the wheels for stick-on magnets. No more ugly weights to clean around. After seeing the misfortunes from others on here with old rubber, I can now “safely” go like hell. Safely. 👌🏻
 

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midlife

Shorts checker
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
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554
Location
Tucson, AZ
My Car
No Mustangs at the moment.
I finally got my turn signals working. I found the housings grounding to the body causing the fuse to open. A bit of electrical tape, some shrink tube and rubber washers and VIOLA!! I didn't think the reproduction 71/72 housings needed to be insulated from the body. Oh well... now folks behind me know where I'm going, though I may not!
That's very strange, as each rear tail bulb socket has a grounding wire. The chassis is also ground, so it shouldn't blow a fuse.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2020
Messages
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221
Location
Pittsford, NY
My Car
My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
We began to rebuild the 2100 2v carburetor on our 1973 Mustang Convertible (302 2v) the other day. We ran out of time due to a scheduled event. But, we are going to get back on it today, now that a thicker base carb gasket got delivered. As with nearly all our projects this one is being video recorded for posting on YouTube. Once it is done I will polish/edit the video clips and post the link for anyone interested in what that carburetor rebuild is all about. Not that it is a difficult undertaking. But, we do enjoys haring the tings we do on our pony cars.

What makes this 2100 rebuild interesting (at least to me) is that the carb is on a bone stock 1973 Mustangs 302 (well, it now has dual exhaust with an H-Pipe and low restriction mufflers on it). But, the car was literally barn stored for over 40 years. The odometer has an original mileage reading of about 21,000 miles. And the car is pristine, and overall runs great. So, why the carb rebuild? The engine has had a slight hesitation on light acceleration from the time we got it, not bad enough to be a nuisance - but I do notice it. The accelerator pump is working on the carb, the initial ignition timing is good, the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm is working, the problem occurs whether the EGR valved is disabled or not...

I had initially thought perhaps the accelerator pump discharge may not be sending enough fuel, despite looking good. Why? I am glad you asked... Long ago I got a 1977 Mercury Monarch into our Lincoln store with a hesitation complaint. It was a new vehicle. I looked at the accelerator pump output and saw fuel squirting when opening the throttle. But, one side had a heavier stream being squirted than the other. So I took the venturi/pump nozzle cluster off and found a pieced of brass drill flashing was stuck in the inside of the cluster, and partially blocking one of the accelerator pump jet passageways. That was easy enough to fix, but the customer (who was back in the shop watching what I was up to) asked if I could do anything to boost his low end performance a bit. He was a nice enough guy, so I did a little magic to his initial timing, lightened the pressure on the vacuum advance diaphragm spring, "cleaned out" the vacuum delay valve for the distributor vacuum hose, put a vacuum delay valve on his EGR vacuum hose, and opened up his accelerator pump jet diameter a little tiny bit. I asked him to please come back to tell me what he thought about the performance after driving it a bit. I also told him if it was not noticeably peppier I had a few other little tricks that could help light a fire in the engine. After all, he was a decent kind of guy just asking for some help.

Anyway, within half an hour he was back, big smile, and telling me he had a different car. He was one happy camper. So, I am was pretty sure the hesitation was the carb, but not ready to rule out the accelerator pump circuit as being a problem quite yet.

Anyway, back to our little project. One of the things that can (also) cause a hesitation on light acceleration is a float level that is too low. In our case I found the float level was about 1/4" too low, which is a lot. I am surprised we were not losing power when making turns. The accelerator pump circuit looked fine, I made no changes other than replacing the pump outlet well's check ball, installing the new diaphragm and check valve in the rebuild kit. And, of course, with the new needle and seat I adjusted the float to its proper setting. Another unusual situation I found is the Power Valve had two gaskets on it. It is very unlikely the carb was built that way initially, but it could have happened. And, with such low miles on the car it was not likely the carb had ever been apart since it first hit the streets. Then again, it is possible the power valve failed after so many years of not being driven. Another hint that someone had it apart came in the form of the power valve cover being rotated 180 degrees from its original, and technically proper, position - not that it would have any effect of drivability. It was just unusual to see. No matter, once the new base gasket arrivers and we wrap up the rebuild and reinstallation/adjustments, all will be as it should be.

My gut tells me it is going to be a better performing car on light acceleration just due to the float level change alone. We will see. Once we are done, and I do a Scope and Set on the engine, I will report how it turned out.

I just LOVE working on these old school vintage Mustangs!
 

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Phil

Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2017
Messages
7
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8
Location
California
My Car
73 Mach 1 which I received from my dad and am now in the process of rebuilding
Planning to catalog a all the parts which were purchased prior to me being given the car. tons of boxes and pieces going to start the catalog process this weekend.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2020
Messages
354
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Location
Pittsford, NY
My Car
My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
Back to the slight hesitation on light acceleration on our 1973 Mustang Convertible. I ended up rebuilding the 2100 2v carburetor, but as it turns out I likely could have just reset the float level and called it a day. The engine only have a little over 21,000 original miles on it (barn stored), so it is unusual to rebuild a carb with miles that low, unless age/ethanol (prior owners, not me) caused problems with the Power Valve, Accelerator Pump Diaphragm, gummy deposits, etc. But, I figured, "why not?"

I found a few things with the carb. First, it had thin paper-like gaskets above and below a base thermal thick gasket between the carb base and the intake manifold - not the way they came from the factory. Next, the Power Valve was double gasketed, again, not like a factory build. And the float level was about 1/4" too low, which is no doubt what caused the hesitation at light throttle. I also found one of the 4 mounting nuts was loose, and when looking at the base gasket it was clear there was a slight vacuum leak at the base of the carb, which accounted for the idle mixture screws having been set at 4 1/2 and 5 turns out (richer than I usually see on 2100 carbs). Finally, someone had run the Fuel Filter into the fuel inlet almost as far as it could be forced into the carb housing's pipe threading.

Lynda video recorded the entire process of removing the carb, rebuilding the carb (I use the term rebuilding" loosely, as it was more just a gasket/Power Valve replacement), correcting some fuel leaks due to the Fuel Filter having been jammed into the fuel inlet so far and a bad fuel line clamp, then the idle speed and Air/Fuel settings being set up. Thus, we have 2 YouTube videos for that project. One is for the entire project at just over 3 hours, the other is for the fuel leak corrections at only 12 minutes.

Entire carburetor rebuild project with fuel leak correction and setting idle A/F and speed with a Throttle Position Solenoid:



Fuel Leak Correction:
 

Bobby

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2018
Messages
226
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72
Location
League City, TX
My Car
1972 Mach 1
On eBay I found an A/C fan blower motor. Purchased it as it indicated that it was tested. When I applied 12 Volt DC to the motor, the rotor was barely spinning and was near locked up. However, I was confident that this motor was correct for an A/C and heater application on my 72 Mach 1. I had to cut the squirrel cage off in pieces and drill out the set screw as the cage was rusted and out of balance. Then I used CRC motor and electrical cleaning spray to wash out all the dirt and whatnot. I then used WD-40 Silicon Lube to free up the bearings and when I ran the motor again it spun free. I ran it for a few minutes and stopped and reapplied additional silicon lube. Ran it again until I was confident that all was well. I then painted the motor and then using a white oil based ink pen reapplied the Motorcraft part number to the back of the motor. I then lubed the bearings with all purpose machine oil and ran it for twenty minutes and thermo-graphed it. Running it in the garage in the shade with ambient temps in the upper 90s it came out to 115 deg F. I tested the other new blower motors that were the incorrect spec and they ran at the same temps so I was satisfied that the bearings were in good shape. I installed and tested the blower out of the A/C vents. What a difference!!! I have very good flow now and I am thrilled. If anyone has the same issue with the new 4 Seasons blower motors not pushing very much air, the only thing to do is check eBay for the original blower motors for A/C that show up from time to time. I found another blower that the seller claims is NOS Ford. I carefully examined the pics in the auction and found several discrepancies that indicated that it was not new and that it was used. The seller wants $259.00 plus $35 to ship....then plus taxes on that total. I contacted the seller and questioned the accuracy of the auction and he contradicted my claims with some lame and obviously BS reasons like.....it is too NOS! So its a hit and miss.....mostly miss! Attached is the auction and his description of the motor. My claims. The motor is not sold with the squirrel cage. They are separate parts. The connector to the orange/red lead is missing. The mounting holes have the paint scraped of the perimeter as it has been mounted....and finally, the box next to the motor has a different part number than the back of the motor. His rationale?......Oh they never match but it is the correct box! :ROFLMAO:

 
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
1,727
Reaction score
654
Location
Ross, Ohio
My Car
71 Sportsroof Bright Red.

On eBay I found an A/C fan blower motor. Purchased it as it indicated that it was tested. When I applied 12 Volt DC to the motor, the rotor was barely spinning and was near locked up. However, I was confident that this motor was correct for an A/C and heater application on my 72 Mach 1. I had to cut the squirrel cage off in pieces and drill out the set screw as the cage was rusted and out of balance. Then I used CRC motor and electrical cleaning spray to wash out all the dirt and whatnot. I then used WD-40 Silicon Lube to free up the bearings and when I ran the motor again it spun free. I ran it for a few minutes and stopped and reapplied additional silicon lube. Ran it again until I was confident that all was well. I then painted the motor and then using a white oil based ink pen reapplied the Motorcraft part number to the back of the motor. I then lubed the bearings with all purpose machine oil and ran it for twenty minutes and thermo-graphed it. Running it in the garage in the shade with ambient temps in the upper 90s it came out to 115 deg F. I tested the other new blower motors that were the incorrect spec and they ran at the same temps so I was satisfied that the bearings were in good shape. I installed and tested the blower out of the A/C vents. What a difference!!! I have very good flow now and I am thrilled. If anyone has the same issue with the new 4 Seasons blower motors not pushing very much air, the only thing to do is check eBay for the original blower motors for A/C that show up from time to time. I found another blower that the seller claims is NOS Ford. I carefully examined the pics in the auction and found several discrepancies that indicated that it was not new and that it was used. The seller wants $259.00 plus $35 to ship....then plus taxes on that total. I contacted the seller and questioned the accuracy of the auction and he contradicted my claims with some lame and obviously BS reasons like.....it is too NOS! So its a hit and miss.....mostly miss! Attached is the auction and his description of the motor. My claims. The motor is not sold with the squirrel cage. They are separate parts. The connector to the orange/red lead is missing. The mounting holes have the paint scraped of the perimeter as it has been mounted....and finally, the box next to the motor has a different part number than the back of the motor. His rationale?......Oh they never match but it is the correct box! :ROFLMAO:

He' not lying - it's new to you and old stock to him- thus nos. 🤣🤣
 
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
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654
Location
Ross, Ohio
My Car
71 Sportsroof Bright Red.

Took the car out for a drive the other day and the speedometer started bouncing when I would slow down to about 25mph. When I first got the car, it was acting like this. I found out that the plastic clip that holds the cable on the back of the speedometer was broken and the cable had backed out causing some slippage. I fix this using a clip I made, and it has been working well till the other day. I figured that my clip had come off and that the cable had backed out and was slipping again so I decided to pull the cluster today. Well - it was still on and holding fast. After taking it off and looking things over I figure I go ahead and pull the cable completely so I could check it out good. I was pulling the cluster anyway to see about calibrating my fuel gauge.

Simple task right - wrong. Besides just being a pia to pull the cluster in my car, over the past few years I have run additional wiring from under the dash out to the engine bay using the hole where the speedo cable goes through. Because of the additional wires neither end of the speedo cable would go through the hole. Ended up getting the Dremel out and grinding a relief hole for the wires to drop into so I could get an end to go through. What a pain. I checked the cable over but couldn't really see anything wrong with. The inner drive cable did have a twist in it at the tranny end. I figure I go ahead and order a new one. Got the new speedo cable ordered and it should be here late next week. Tranny gear looks good.

Decided to move onto calibrating the fuel gauge. Took it out of the cluster and checked it out on the bench and it's right on the money. Using 10 ohms and 70 ohms I'm right at full and empty. Using 24 ohms I'm a little above half. 26 ohms is a half tank. On the car checking back at the plug I'm a little below half tank using 24 ohms. The full and empty test ok when on the car. There is no way to adjust the gauge while in the car so I'm going to leave it alone. It's close enough on half and I now know that full and empty are good.

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