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rjcomp

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2017
Messages
16
Reaction score
33
Location
california
My Car
Original owner of custom order 1973 convertible with the Q code. I still have the factory window sticker. She has competition suspension, deluxe interior with full gauges, ac, tilt, and forged aluminum slotted mag wheels. The hood is the original flat black dual scoop and a black trim along the bottom sides. All original.
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Had my radiator rebuilt since I can not replace it. Not cheap. I wish I could have kept the hoses but they were getting weak. Thermostat housing is showing wear and I am starting to look for an original. After market just won't do. I might be looking for a while. The shop who rebuilt the radiator was suprised it was 26". I know that those with the Q had 26". My son helped put the radiator in and it was the first time he has helped work on the car. It was a nice day. We both drew blood which means a good job.
 

fmjcraig

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
70
Reaction score
64
Location
Clinton Township, MI
My Car
1973 Mustang Deluxe Convertible
351c 2V Auto Ram Air
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Heat finally took a step back just in time for the 2022 Gratiot Cruise last weekend...saw out of hundreds of classics maybe 5 71/73s...am glad values are increasing especially for well sorted examples...yay!52105766-3061-4BF8-9FA6-959533961B79.jpeg 40B00994-B216-40BF-81AC-D87E3FA734D8.jpeg
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
3,752
Reaction score
680
Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
On eBay I found an A/C fan blower motor. Purchased it as it indicated that it was tested. When I applied 12 Volt DC to the motor, the rotor was barely spinning and was near locked up. However, I was confident that this motor was correct for an A/C and heater application on my 72 Mach 1. I had to cut the squirrel cage off in pieces and drill out the set screw as the cage was rusted and out of balance. Then I used CRC motor and electrical cleaning spray to wash out all the dirt and whatnot. I then used WD-40 Silicon Lube to free up the bearings and when I ran the motor again it spun free. I ran it for a few minutes and stopped and reapplied additional silicon lube. Ran it again until I was confident that all was well. I then painted the motor and then using a white oil based ink pen reapplied the Motorcraft part number to the back of the motor. I then lubed the bearings with all purpose machine oil and ran it for twenty minutes and thermo-graphed it. Running it in the garage in the shade with ambient temps in the upper 90s it came out to 115 deg F. I tested the other new blower motors that were the incorrect spec and they ran at the same temps so I was satisfied that the bearings were in good shape. I installed and tested the blower out of the A/C vents. What a difference!!! I have very good flow now and I am thrilled. If anyone has the same issue with the new 4 Seasons blower motors not pushing very much air, the only thing to do is check eBay for the original blower motors for A/C that show up from time to time. I found another blower that the seller claims is NOS Ford. I carefully examined the pics in the auction and found several discrepancies that indicated that it was not new and that it was used. The seller wants $259.00 plus $35 to ship....then plus taxes on that total. I contacted the seller and questioned the accuracy of the auction and he contradicted my claims with some lame and obviously BS reasons like.....it is too NOS! So its a hit and miss.....mostly miss! Attached is the auction and his description of the motor. My claims. The motor is not sold with the squirrel cage. They are separate parts. The connector to the orange/red lead is missing. The mounting holes have the paint scraped of the perimeter as it has been mounted....and finally, the box next to the motor has a different part number than the back of the motor. His rationale?......Oh they never match but it is the correct box! :ROFLMAO:

Wow... I didn't know they are selling for that much. I have mine still in the case that I will sell for a lot less so hit me if interested.
 

A_mycholuk

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2020
Messages
10
Reaction score
5
Location
Vancouver island
My Car
1971 mach 1
Finally built the x-pipe to header pipes and hung the exhaust that's been sitting in the garage for over a year. Hopefully I just need to put some collector gaskets in tomorrow and see how it sounds.
 

luxstang

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2010
Messages
6,624
Reaction score
98
Location
Luxembourg / Europe
My Car
1972 Mustang Convertible
Believe it or not, but after I was the first one on this forum to go big rims and very low stance……. I just put higher springs in my suspension!
It immediately improved ride comfort, handling and steering.
As I no longer have the 18-inch rims and have been running on the original 15 inch rims since 2016 i decided I’d had enough of the bumpy ride and poor handling performance.
What a pleasure driving suddenly has become! :)
 

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logicbomb

New member
Joined
Jun 24, 2022
Messages
1
Reaction score
2
Location
Muncie
My Car
1972 Blue Hardtop Mustang 351C Cj engine 4spd Hurst
Hi all, we installed the igniter 2 and Flamethrower 2 in my car. Replacing the carburetor next. Ordered a Holley 4160 750cfm, excited to get it installed. I am hoping it fixes the idle issue.
 

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Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
2,046
Reaction score
543
Location
Germany, Southwest, Black Forest
My Car
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 T5 Q-Code 4-Speed
Believe it or not, but after I was the first one on this forum to go big rims and very low stance……. I just put higher springs in my suspension!
It immediately improved ride comfort, handling and steering.
As I no longer have the 18-inch rims and have been running on the original 15 inch rims since 2016 i decided I’d had enough of the bumpy ride and poor handling performance.
What a pleasure driving suddenly has become! :)

You crazy Mofo, Mike 😂

But what should I say? It looks also great 😊👍🏻
 

Hemikiller

Well-known member
Staff member
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
3,977
Reaction score
1,285
Location
Killingworth, CT
My Car
71 Mach 1
71 XR-7 coupe
71 Country Squire
65 coupe
Pulled a fourteen hour journey yesterday, picking up a transmission for a friend, and a car for another friend. First stop was in Antrim, NH to pick up a 4L85E for my friend's 78 Grand LeMans that he'll be swapping in a 502 BBC. Turns out the guy he bought it from is a good friend of Josh from the Deathwish Show on Prime. His Kei truck with a Corvette swap, the 4X Eldorado and the Spool Bus were outside. He was working, but we chatted with his wife for a bit, picked up the transmission and she invited us to wander around and look at his collection of stuff. Had some very cool cars. I'm digging the black Lincoln, that's my kinda cruiser.

Next stop was to Rutland, VT to pick up a 72 Mach 1. It's an H-code car and fairly rough, but is solid where it counts. Torque boxes, frame rails and all the other PITA stuff to replace is all good. From what I saw, it's a really well optioned car. Bright Blue metallic, with GW white Mach 1 Sports Interior, AC, auto, PS, PDB, console, tinted glass, deluxe belts, rear window defrost, factory spoiler and a tape stripe car. He's going to pull a Marti Report soon, I bet there are other options hiding that aren't there.

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Mark873

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2022
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Arizona
My Car
Marks 73 Mustang
Hi to all, looking for answer, I am putting my 73 coup back together, I picked up donuts for the exhaust pipe to stock header, 2". there is now way to install this donut, the two bolt flag doesn't even get close to the studs to put the nut on.
its been a few years sense I took it apart, now cant remember if it had donut gaskets. cant find any in my old parts box.
After starting getting leak from flange. do I have to keep messing with it to get it to seal?
351c V2
 

A_mycholuk

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2020
Messages
10
Reaction score
5
Location
Vancouver island
My Car
1971 mach 1
Insured the car today and went for the first ride in about a year. Electric fan/aluminum rad setup is working great and headers and exhaust are sounding good. It's like driving a totally different car, once I swap the suspect u-joint I will put the new 3:55 gears to the test and roast some tires.
 
Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
404
Reaction score
46
Location
North Surrey UK
My Car
1971 Mustang 302 V8
Sadly I have not done much on my car at all, The last issue I had was trying to weld in a front passenger floor pan, I cleaned up the box sections and treated them for rust and prevention. drilled a series of holes in the new floor pan so the mig welder could hit the thicker box sections and mushroom over the new floor pan sheet metal. I did 16 Spot welds and only one of them stuck! I was using the small hobby bottles of argon gas and I am pretty sure I ran out of gas on the first squeeze of the trigger (there is no regulator on the small gas bottles so you have no way of telling the gas has run out until the welds become crap)! I have since bought of ebay a small hobby gas regulator gauge so now I can see if I have gas but in honestly I have lost confidence and basically have a wreck of a mustang sitting on my drive for now nearly 3 years. and I don't have the funds to pay a professional to do the work I never thought needed doing!

Simple things like installing new brake lines to the disc brakes have resulted in the Bleed screws leaking and now I have to find replacements, changing the door pins on the drivers door is also still in hand, I had to go to a small engineering company to get one of the pins shortened to the correct length and get a slot cut in it for a c clip. Its Just one thing after another and I'm not enjoying it anymore. I'm at the point where I honestly wish I had never bought it! I joined mustang clubs in the UK hoping there would be people willing to advise and lend a hand in helping me get the car on the road but most club people have the newer mustangs and don't wrench on the cars themselves.
 

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Last edited:
Joined
Jan 20, 2022
Messages
507
Reaction score
486
Location
Homer Glen, Il
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1 351c FMX trans and 9 inch rear end
Sadly I have not done much on my car at all, The last issue I had was trying to weld in a front passenger floor pan, I cleaned up the box sections and treated them for rust and prevention. drilled a series of holes in the new floor pan so the mig welder could hit the thicker box sections and mushroom over the new floor pan sheet metal. I did 16 Spot welds and only one of them stuck! I was using the small hobby bottles of argon gas and I am pretty sure I ran out of gas on the first squeeze of the trigger (there is no regulator on the small gas bottles so you have no way of telling the gas has run out until the welds become crap)! I have since bought of ebay a small hobby gas regulator gauge so now I can see if I have gas but in honestly I have lost confidence and basically have a wreck of a mustang sitting on my drive for now nearly 3 years. and I don't have the funds to pay a professional to do the work I never thought needed doing!

Simple things like installing new brake lines to the disc brakes have resulted in the Bleed screws leaking and now I have to find replacements, changing the door pins on the drivers door is also still in hand, I had to go to a small engineering company to get one of the pins shortened to the correct length and get a slot cut in it for a c clip. Its Just one thing after another and I'm not enjoying it anymore. I'm at the point where I honestly wish I had never bought it! I joined mustang clubs in the UK hoping there would be people willing to advise and lend a hand in helping me get the car on the road but most club people have the newer mustangs and don't wrench on the cars themselves.
Keep the faith, these set backs can be discouraging when they happen but it looks like you have a good start. The frame rails are solid and you have all the bad metal cut out. you have the new panel drilled and ready to go, just practice your welds on some scrap metal and then get back to finishing that floor, you can do it.
 

57Gypsy

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
12
Location
Montevideo, Mn
My Car
1972 Mach 1, 351 Cleveland, Light Pewter
When I am driving my '72 Mach 1, the drivers seat always slides to the back when I take off! (Like I am driving nice.... hahaha) But anyway, I am short (5'2") and every time I start to step on the gas, my seat slides back. (Actually dangerous because I can't reach the steering wheel and I start lose control) The rail was missing a spring and the other spring was weak and it looked like the cogs were wore down.
So my husband (who has no problem with the seat because he is 6'1') and I decided that we would order new seat rails and install them.
But then I figured that... why not just swap the passenger seat (which is doesn't slide) because the passenger seat doesn't matter as much.
So, we pulled both seats out of the Stang and swapped them around. Now it works soooo much better and I don't have to dig into the floorboard with my heels to keep the seat close to the steering wheel! LOL
That's what we worked on.
 

A_mycholuk

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2020
Messages
10
Reaction score
5
Location
Vancouver island
My Car
1971 mach 1
Sadly I have not done much on my car at all, The last issue I had was trying to weld in a front passenger floor pan, I cleaned up the box sections and treated them for rust and prevention. drilled a series of holes in the new floor pan so the mig welder could hit the thicker box sections and mushroom over the new floor pan sheet metal. I did 16 Spot welds and only one of them stuck! I was using the small hobby bottles of argon gas and I am pretty sure I ran out of gas on the first squeeze of the trigger (there is no regulator on the small gas bottles so you have no way of telling the gas has run out until the welds become crap)! I have since bought of ebay a small hobby gas regulator gauge so now I can see if I have gas but in honestly I have lost confidence and basically have a wreck of a mustang sitting on my drive for now nearly 3 years. and I don't have the funds to pay a professional to do the work I never thought needed doing!

Simple things like installing new brake lines to the disc brakes have resulted in the Bleed screws leaking and now I have to find replacements, changing the door pins on the drivers door is also still in hand, I had to go to a small engineering company to get one of the pins shortened to the correct length and get a slot cut in it for a c clip. Its Just one thing after another and I'm not enjoying it anymore. I'm at the point where I honestly wish I had never bought it! I joined mustang clubs in the UK hoping there would be people willing to advise and lend a hand in helping me get the car on the road but most club people have the newer mustangs and don't wrench on the cars themselves

Sadly I have not done much on my car at all, The last issue I had was trying to weld in a front passenger floor pan, I cleaned up the box sections and treated them for rust and prevention. drilled a series of holes in the new floor pan so the mig welder could hit the thicker box sections and mushroom over the new floor pan sheet metal. I did 16 Spot welds and only one of them stuck! I was using the small hobby bottles of argon gas and I am pretty sure I ran out of gas on the first squeeze of the trigger (there is no regulator on the small gas bottles so you have no way of telling the gas has run out until the welds become crap)! I have since bought of ebay a small hobby gas regulator gauge so now I can see if I have gas but in honestly I have lost confidence and basically have a wreck of a mustang sitting on my drive for now nearly 3 years. and I don't have the funds to pay a professional to do the work I never thought needed doing!

Simple things like installing new brake lines to the disc brakes have resulted in the Bleed screws leaking and now I have to find replacements, changing the door pins on the drivers door is also still in hand, I had to go to a small engineering company to get one of the pins shortened to the correct length and get a slot cut in it for a c clip. Its Just one thing after another and I'm not enjoying it anymore. I'm at the point where I honestly wish I had never bought it! I joined mustang clubs in the UK hoping there would be people willing to advise and lend a hand in helping me get the car on the road but most club people have the newer mustangs and don't wrench on the cars themselves.
For welding mild steel switch your shielding gas, use c25 argon c02 mix. Using argon for steel will give you no penetration which could be part of your issue. You also may want to try use a smaller diameter wire.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2020
Messages
533
Reaction score
401
Location
Pittsford, NY
My Car
My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
On our 73 Mach 1, which we swapped the C4 for an AOD in, I revisited how to check the Throttle Valve (TV) pressure, with a focus on the difference in PSI at idle in Park vs Neutral. I did not need to adjust the TC pressure, so I did not go into that, but I did show how to insert the 0.275" thick adjustment gauge tool at the TV carburetor linkage location. We posted a YouTube video on this latest TV pressure difference, and tool insertion, at:



In a prior YouTube video I show how to adjust the TV pressure at idle at the carburetor linkage:



This has been a quiet year for us, with all this covid crap, and now Lynda and I ourselves going through a prolonged covid recovery. I can hardly wait for all this to be over with, where we can go on with our lives normally again. We did acquire a refurbished Sun 1115 Oscilloscope Engine Tester recently, and plan to get it hooked up to one of our vintage Mustangs to see how well it works.
 

Sheriff41

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
561
Reaction score
351
Location
Texas
My Car
72 Mustang Q-code
On our 73 Mach 1, which we swapped the C4 for an AOD in, I revisited how to check the Throttle Valve (TV) pressure, with a focus on the difference in PSI at idle in Park vs Neutral. I did not need to adjust the TC pressure, so I did not go into that, but I did show how to insert the 0.275" thick adjustment gauge tool at the TV carburetor linkage location. We posted a YouTube video on this latest TV pressure difference, and tool insertion, at:



In a prior YouTube video I show how to adjust the TV pressure at idle at the carburetor linkage:



This has been a quiet year for us, with all this covid crap, and now Lynda and I ourselves going through a prolonged covid recovery. I can hardly wait for all this to be over with, where we can go on with our lives normally again. We did acquire a refurbished Sun 1115 Oscilloscope Engine Tester recently, and plan to get it hooked up to one of our vintage Mustangs to see how well it works.

Here's wishing you both a speedy recovery. Please keep us posted on the Sun engine tester. There are probably not many people left that know how to use one!
 
Joined
Jul 27, 2021
Messages
890
Reaction score
644
Location
East Texas
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351 4 speed
Sadly I have not done much on my car at all, The last issue I had was trying to weld in a front passenger floor pan, I cleaned up the box sections and treated them for rust and prevention. drilled a series of holes in the new floor pan so the mig welder could hit the thicker box sections and mushroom over the new floor pan sheet metal. I did 16 Spot welds and only one of them stuck! I was using the small hobby bottles of argon gas and I am pretty sure I ran out of gas on the first squeeze of the trigger (there is no regulator on the small gas bottles so you have no way of telling the gas has run out until the welds become crap)! I have since bought of ebay a small hobby gas regulator gauge so now I can see if I have gas but in honestly I have lost confidence and basically have a wreck of a mustang sitting on my drive for now nearly 3 years. and I don't have the funds to pay a professional to do the work I never thought needed doing!

Simple things like installing new brake lines to the disc brakes have resulted in the Bleed screws leaking and now I have to find replacements, changing the door pins on the drivers door is also still in hand, I had to go to a small engineering company to get one of the pins shortened to the correct length and get a slot cut in it for a c clip. Its Just one thing after another and I'm not enjoying it anymore. I'm at the point where I honestly wish I had never bought it! I joined mustang clubs in the UK hoping there would be people willing to advise and lend a hand in helping me get the car on the road but most club people have the newer mustangs and don't wrench on the cars themselves.
When you have issues with repairs ask questions here, there are many knowledgeable people here who will be more than happy to help. There should have been no need to send the door pin to get it shortened, you should be able to just cut it with a grinder and a cut off wheel, and just bevel the end of it with the grinder. You do not need a c-clip to hold it in place. I know that the pin from the factory goes in from the bottom of the hinge, and then the top of the pin is mushroomed like a rivet so that it cannot fall out. If you mount your replacement pin in the same manner it will just fall off, but you can just mount the pin from the top of the hinge so that it cannot fall off, no mushrooming or c-clip is now needed.
Now, when doing these old cars thing do tend to just snowball, when you do one thing, you notice that the part attached to that one part you are doing is also bad, then when you get to the second part, you notice, that the part that is next to that one also needs replacement.... It seems to never end. I bought my car as a project, but I NEVER expected it to be this bad. The more I dig into it, the more I need to replace. I have been working on it for a year. Not even close to being finished. Just had to cut out the outer lower outer drivers side A-pillar (where the lower door hinge goes on), and part of the front rocker panel. These parts are not reproduced for our cars, so I bought some used parts. The lower A-Pillar I found is in reasonable condition, but the lower rocker is not. So, I now have to cut off my lower rocker and from that one and the one I got, I have to make a ton of cuts and welds to hopefully make one good part. It never ends...
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
3,752
Reaction score
680
Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
Pulled a fourteen hour journey yesterday, picking up a transmission for a friend, and a car for another friend. First stop was in Antrim, NH to pick up a 4L85E for my friend's 78 Grand LeMans that he'll be swapping in a 502 BBC. Turns out the guy he bought it from is a good friend of Josh from the Deathwish Show on Prime. His Kei truck with a Corvette swap, the 4X Eldorado and the Spool Bus were outside. He was working, but we chatted with his wife for a bit, picked up the transmission and she invited us to wander around and look at his collection of stuff. Had some very cool cars. I'm digging the black Lincoln, that's my kinda cruiser.

Next stop was to Rutland, VT to pick up a 72 Mach 1. It's an H-code car and fairly rough, but is solid where it counts. Torque boxes, frame rails and all the other PITA stuff to replace is all good. From what I saw, it's a really well optioned car. Bright Blue metallic, with GW white Mach 1 Sports Interior, AC, auto, PS, PDB, console, tinted glass, deluxe belts, rear window defrost, factory spoiler and a tape stripe car. He's going to pull a Marti Report soon, I bet there are other options hiding that aren't there.

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This Kei trucks may becoming popular. I saw this one in the Hot Rod Power Tour. Maybe the same guy. He said he had two of these and they were from the NE.
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