What's the Best Aluminum Radiator For My Vehicle

[Rockin Ken]

I have a 12 year old one now with dual electric fans and it seems to be running around 220 degrees.
I'd like to get my running temp under 200.
suggestions or part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Ken, give us some additional info. on your engine set-up, style of driving and future plans for the car. We'll be able to better help.
. If you're currently running 220 degrees with dual fans there's issues to be sorted out. BUT, nothing we can't handle!

 

[Rockin Ken]

hey thanks,
468/C4- 8 inch with a 3:80 gear ratio,
I am going to install a 3:25 gear ratio from quick performance that I have.
the engine is around 500 horsepower and that it might be part of the temp issue.
this is just from cruising around not from any racing.
there may not be a thermostat in the outlet.
could this cause the water to run too fast through the system.?
maybe this setup ? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dwr-4138009m

 

[Tnfastbk]

https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/351c-overheating-with-no-thermostat.633970/

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Big YES...no thromostat = over heating. Generally speaking for a street car 180-195 degree thermostat is a good choice. I would not even mess with your current radiator until you get a thermostat installed. Odds are your overheating will be fixed.

 

[giantpune]

There's so much more to it than what brand/model of radiator you have.

What PSI is your radiator cap rated for?
Is the cap new or clapped out?
What temp does your thermostat open at?
Are you even running a thermostat?
What proportion of water to antifreeze is in your system?
How are your electric fans being turned on? (computer, rocker switch, or temp probe)
If its a temp probe, where is it measuring from?
What CFM are your fans?
What's your shroud look like?
Does it run hot if you're just cruising at like 45mph at a low RPM? Or does it only overhead when you are sitting and idling, or when running it hard?


In my experience, running with no thermostat makes the car tend to run cooler, and not even get up to the normal operating temp, unless you really start hossing around, then it can overheat.
Pure water transfers heat better than antifreeze. Trade off is that pure water also freezes easier. That may not be a concern in florida.
If the car stays cool while driving but overheats while idling, the radiator is fine but the cooling fans are not doing their job.
The closer you put a temp probe to the return inlet of the radiator, the more time the fans will spend running and cooling the water. Its a trade off of getting adequate cooling but not having the fans kicking on and off constantly.

 

[Rockin Ken]

thank you,
I'll be working on that this morning,
and I'll find out one way or the other.
I really do hope it's that simple.

 

[Tnfastbk]

make sure to get the correct thermostat as well. A 351W will fit physically but will not work to keep the car cool.

 

[Rockin Ken]

after my investigation I found I have no thermostat installed,
so I will install one to see what difference that makes
thank you everyone !

 

[delawarebill]

ken, a little more info that works for me. the stat.... bleeding the air out can be a pain. so what i did and always do... looking that the stat u'll see the Y in the framing. drill a 1/8" hole just under the sealing area and between the Y and mount it a noon. this will allow the air to escape and not affect the temp the stat controls. and if it turns out the rad is shot, i always use "champion". great fit and work very well.

 

[Kilgon]

I have a 12 year old one now with dual electric fans and it seems to be running around 220 degrees.
I'd like to get my running temp under 200.
suggestions or part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

+1 with all that's mentioned above. You also mentioned that yours is 12 years old. Has it ever worked right, or has it been running in the 220 range since the day you installed it. When was the last time you flushed it? Also, I noticed you live in Florida. I'm going to take for granted that you are using antifreeze - if not you need to.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I went with a griffin combo unit. Pretty much a bolt in, but they do recommend you support the bottom of the radiator from strap to strap

My only issue was that I had to find a different lower hose that was 1.75 on both ends.

 

[73 Mach 1 4 me]

make sure to get the correct thermostat as well. A 351W will fit physically but will not work to keep the car cool.

My 351 has a special thermostat and a brass ring that sits under the thermostat. I was told you need that set up for my engine otherwise you’ll overheat.

 

[basstrix]

after my investigation I found I have no thermostat installed,
so I will install one to see what difference that makes
thank you everyone !

Let us know the outcome of installing a t-stat. You have a 385 series...I believe they behave differently w/o a thermostat than a 335 series (351c) does.

 

[mrgmhale]

Big YES...no thermostat = over heating. Generally speaking for a street car 180-195 degree thermostat is a good choice. I would not even mess with your current radiator until you get a thermostat installed. Odds are your overheating will be fixed.

Good counsel. Start with the thermostat and restrictor plate. Those engines were design to run at 192-195. 180 is okay also, but I prefer 192-195.

Once the coolant flow issue is resolved there is no reason a quality 3 row rqdiarator, bress or aluminum, can't keep the engine cool as long is it is not plugged up internally (scale and hard water related crud in the cooling tubes), and the cooling fins are straight and air can pass between them. I am not using a typical thermal switch to trigger our fan relay. Instead, I am using a variable temp thermometer with a capillary tube leading to a Bourdon Bulb Thermocouple that is located inside the upper radiator hose. Here is a link to the device on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/American-Volt-Adjustable-Electric-Temperature/dp/B07PDSRMYS/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_2_1_3/147-4822742-7029440?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07PDSRMYS&pd_rd_r=54dc2cc2-62af-4ab4-8792-b0216bba2187&pd_rd_w=JprVV&pd_rd_wg=3LFLE&pf_rd_p=78d6a3dc-d4af-46b9-998e-003981a80dbb&pf_rd_r=FMT9NA0HY1SE0G255SXJ&psc=1&refRID=FMT9NA0HY1SE0G255SXJ


I show how to install it in a YouTube video, where I begin to get into the wiring at 15:12 mm:22, at:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5DrC2zrpIA

There is what I feel is good info in the entire clip, but you may not need the first 14 minutes if you have a nicely installed electric fan system already.

I got our Champion radiator, cowl, cooling fans, fan relay, and thermal switch (with the wires needed for the variable temp thermostat from Performance Cooling performancecooling.com

The parts I purchased from Performance Cooling are listed in the description for the above listed video.

 

[mrgmhale]

Here is another link you may find useful re how to burp any air out of the cooling system, especially on the “engine side” of the thermostat.

 

[Bobby]

Hi! I hade the very same problem with my 72 Mach 1. I had the “original?” radiator and it definitely did the job but it was scaling up inside. It had already been rodded out once. It was cooling my 351 to about 190-195 deg. So I modernized to a 4 row aluminum radiator with two 12 inch fans with shrouds. I installed all the proper relays and sensors and was very excited to see results. Was i disappointed? Hale yes!!! The engine was running about 225 deg or so and the A/C quit working all together. I reckoned that it had to be the radiator….specifically the 4 row radiator. After I dropped in my new 383c stroker build, I bought a reproduction radiator from Summit. A new thermostat, radiator cap and the new Flowecooler water pump topped it all off. Was I disappointed with this setup?….hale no!!! My engine is running at a cool 190 deg and my A/C works like a champ! The new aluminum 4 row radiators do not allow sufficient airflow to cool the engine properly much less allow good airflow thru the condenser for the A-C. Anyway, my vote is to stay with a conventional radiator. I have the engine driven fan and the airflow keeps things at it’s designed temps. The summit repro is a 100% brass (NO plastic ends) radiator so it’s quite pricey and it works!

Summit Racing SUM-382041 Summit Racing™ Classic OEM Radiators | Summit Racing

 

[Rockin Ken]

with the new thermostat installed,
the problem is solved!
thank you everyone!

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Happy to hear you're rolling again. Way to go!

 

[Rockin Ken]

I went with a griffin combo unit. Pretty much a bolt in, but they do recommend you support the bottom of the radiator from strap to strap

My only issue was that I had to find a different lower hose that was 1.75 on both ends.

what was the part number?
and type that you did get for the lower radiator hose?
thanks