wheel hop

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boilermaster

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Messages
540
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Location
michigan
My Car
71 fastback
Been wondering what to do about the horrible wheel hop in my 71 fb with non staggered shocks.

new leaf springs ? traction bars ? staggered shocks?

Finally found this link that suggests adding a crossmember and left lower shock mount from a staggered shock car.

www.fordmuscleforums.com/mustang...staggered...shocks-any-mustang.html

This actually worked quite well for me.

To this I would add:

I chose to bolt my crossmember in the car instead of welding it in.

I did drill larger holes to the outside of the frame rail to add spacers to the frame so I didn't crush the frame when tightening the bolts.

use your old left lower shock mount and cut the EAR off of it to make your new top mount.

install new lower mount from left lower mount from a staggered shock car (love my donor car)

install shock into new lower mount with new rubbers to locate where the new crossmember is to fit

by adding tab you cut from old lower mount and measure very carefully.

Note that the subframe is angled somewhat where the new crossmember is to be installed.

angle your new crossmember to match so you don't have to add a bunch of filler rod between the crossmember and mounting plates.

Viola, wheel hop be gone.

Cost me all of $ for the metal.

Note to self (remove several plug wires before doing hole shot) or get bigger tires than 255/60r15.

                                 boilermaster

 
I just installed a set of Traction Masters....done. Although, I must admit, I've never had wheel hop problems, the 5 leaf rear springs , Traction Masters, and replacement of 3.00 to 1 open rear end to 3.50 to 1 Traction Loc, was done to enhance towing capabilities. I have an automatic trans ( shift kitted ) as well, so there's no "dumping" of the clutch to shock the driveline from a dead stop either.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The cheap low cost way we use to do was to take another main leaf. Cut the eyes off and only use the front half. Add the extra 1/2 spring in the front and add clamps to hold them all together. Place on top of the main leaf. Holman Moody use to do this to stay within being stock rules in racing.

If your current springs do not have clamps on them can cause wheel hop to be bad also. The springs are wrapping up under the torque of the rear tire traction. Anything that stops the spring from flexing in the front will help. Yes traction bars also work.

 
The cheap low cost way we use to do was to take another main leaf. Cut the eyes off and only use the front half. Add the extra 1/2 spring in the front and add clamps to hold them all together. Place on top of the main leaf. Holman Moody use to do this to stay within being stock rules in racing.

If your current springs do not have clamps on them can cause wheel hop to be bad also. The springs are wrapping up under the torque of the rear tire traction. Anything that stops the spring from flexing in the front will help. Yes traction bars also work.

 
I fixed my rear wheel hop on my 3.25:1 open diff Mach 1 by installing a set of Grab-A-Trak 4 1/2 leaf springs with standard eye location. Problem was they were and are still too high. I added 1" lowering blocks while they settle...….. I hope. If I'd known they were 1.5" higher than the old ones I took out, I might have bought Eaton Springs ones or at least reversed eye (I think) to get away from the lowering blocks. But then what do you do IF they settle too much...……. add longer rear shackles!! I think not! Anyway, no more wheel hop.

Geoff.

 
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