Winterizing

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1971 Mustang Mach 1
429CJ, 4 Speed, 3.25 Traction Lock N case, A/C, P/W, tilt, fold down seats, int. wipers, deluxe interior.
Hey guys! What’s everyone’s go to process for winterizing?

My car will be under a car cover inside a shelter logic storage pop up garage. So it will be outside as far as temps go up here in Alaska.

Just added some fuel stabilizer to the tank and am taking it on a couple last cruises. Do you guys fill your tanks?
Drain your carbs? Do any fogging of the cylinders?

I’m a boat mechanic by trade so there are all things we normally do but I figured I would ask!
 

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Bill73Ragtop

Long time vintage mustang hobbyist
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former owner (25 yrs) of 1973 Convertible, 351c, A/C, RA
I would think protecting block from coolant freezing should be priority since Alaska gets some pretty serious low temps. Anything you normally do for marine engines - i.e. fuel, oil, etc - would be similar. Anyone who can post 'proven' critter deterrent is always welcome advice.
 
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I would think protecting block from coolant freezing should be priority since Alaska gets some pretty serious low temps. Anything you normally do for marine engines - i.e. fuel, oil, etc - would be similar. Anyone who can post 'proven' critter deterrent is always welcome advice.
Critter deterrent! That's a sore point to me. Back in 1982, I stored my 1972 Mach 1, no rust, no holes, beautiful original interior etc., in a barn at a friend's place. I had the car up on 18" jackstands thinking nothing would jump that high. Someone suggested putting moth balls inside the car as well. Neither worked. A rat made its nest under the full-length console and the moth balls stripped every bit of "chrome" of the interior trim. How that rat got in and out with its family I have no idea, but they destroyed a perfect rear seat.
Hope your car has a good long sleep with no critters and no freeze up.
 
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Some other Fords
I always change the oil when winterizing so that all the contaminants are gone and there is fresh oil in the engine.

I fill with non-ethanol gasoline and use STA-BIL fuel stabilizer. I add the STA-BIL at the gas station so the drive home circulates the stabilizer throughout the fuel system.

I remove the battery and put it on a battery tender.

Car sits and does not run until the Spring. When I do start up in the Spring, I fill the carb fuel bowl through the vent port using a condiment squirt bottle . I crank the engine over for 10 seconds or so with the coil wire unplugged so that the oil passages are primed before lighting it off.
 

Hemikiller

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Those portable garages are nasty moisture traps. Make sure you have vapor barrier down on the floor, and active ventilation in the peaks. Better yet, don't you have a place locally that does indoor winter storage?
 
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As October rolls around I will wash the car and start driving it more. (Arizona)
And as April rolls around I will wash the car and enjoy driving throughout the summer with the windows down, A/C off, and my arm in the window enjoying the cool breeze. ;)
 
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I always change the oil when winterizing so that all the contaminants are gone and there is fresh oil in the engine.

I fill with non-ethanol gasoline and use STA-BIL fuel stabilizer. I add the STA-BIL at the gas station so the drive home circulates the stabilizer throughout the fuel system.

I remove the battery and put it on a battery tender.

Car sits and does not run until the Spring. When I do start up in the Spring, I fill the carb fuel bowl through the vent port using a condiment squirt bottle . I crank the engine over for 10 seconds or so with the coil wire unplugged so that the oil passages are primed before lighting it off.
I do much the same as you except I use half a can of SeaFoam in a full tank of ethanol free gas, then drive it around for a while. I also up the pressure in my tires to 40psi, seems to help with flat spots. The battery I disconnect but leave in the car. I connect a battery tender about every month or so.
Startup procedure is much the same, but oil gets changed after. Maybe a good thought to change before though. I was thinking more about condensation getting into fresh oil.
My house attached garage is unheated, but dry. I do try to keep door opening to the minimum. I've been doing it this way now for 10 years without problems.
 
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