Recent content by Paul4425

Upon further testing and investigation, points suck. I was still having issues when it was under a load. I broke down and swapped the points and condenser with a PerTronix electronic ignition. It fired up perfectly and ran like a champ. No hesitation or bogging under a load. That will be...

Well, after a long week or so of troubleshooting I have the fix/fixes...The distributor points were not gaped correctly (way too close), and this was causing an erratic spark. I also discovered a spark plug wire that was not working consistently. The erratic spark and the wire were the reasons...

I swapped the original carb and intake during the rebuild. The car was not running when I bought it. The idle set screws do/did make a difference when I was able to get it to idle. It seems to be an excess fuel, not starvation (had loads of carbon on the plugs). No EGR installed.

Lol, I like the condenser prank. Might have to give that a try. I am also thinking it is more likely in the calibration rather than the ignition. Going to look harder into that today. I have the original carb, but it hasn't run in 25 years so it would take some work getting it operational.

Well, turns out the old distributor does not work. No spark at the plugs, tested with a timing light (that was a waste of about two hours changing it and then changing it back). The new old parts do not fit the new stock style distributor. They have different internals. I'm out of time and...

I'm running the stock mechanical fuel pump. Just finished cleaning the plugs and stuck the original distributor on. Getting ready to do a test run and see if things are better.

I do not have a dwell meter. I do have a NOS set of points, and 2 NOS condensers. The points and 1 condenser are from Parts Master and the other condenser is from Standard Motor Products/Blue Steak. I don't think fuel contamination is the issue, because I took apart the carb and it was clean...

I have the original distributor, but...when I got the car the glove box had a bunch of extra condensers and distributor parts which makes me skeptical putting it back on.

I took a look, the points look good. No way to really test the condenser other than swap it. If the condenser was bad wouldn't it be consistent across all RPM ranges?

I haven't run if for 24 hours and there is still fuel sitting in the intake, and the bowls are full. But, when I shut it down for good yesterday it was missing and sputtering again so I imagine that has to do with the standing fuel and plugs being fouled again. Not 100% sure, but I don't think...

Took apart the carb again. Fuel level in the bowls was good. Nothing blocking the needle valves (needles and springs looked good). There was a very little amount of debris in the bottom of one bowl. I sucked it out, but doubt that it had anything to do with the issue (very fine and minimal...

I replaced the coil after this happened and checked the volts, it was at 12.7 or so. Coil wire was checked as well and had steady voltage. All vacuum lines were sealed trying to isolate the problem and I did not find and leaks (they are still plugged). It has the stock distributor with single...

I will give that a try. It has all new lines, new tank, new pump, new filter, new plugs, new plug wires. Everything in new. If I pull the carb apart again, where should I be focusing on looking for junk? When I took it apart the first time the bowls were full of fuel and looked clean (but I...

The carb was new out of the box about 3 weeks ago. I have started it regularly sense installed (every 3 days or so). It idled, started, and ran good until now. Paul

I ran into an issue the other day when taking the Mach 1 around the block. I just recently got my car operation (full resto) and am troubleshooting and tuning everything now. Prior to this day, the car started, idled, and revved up well, but would get a slight surging effect when I drove it...