Electrical & Lighting

Tutorials about electrical wiring, lights, gauges, radios and mobile electronics

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Hi guys. I have been asked to give a few pointers and pics on the "simplification" of my engine bay. http://members.dodo.com.au/~jimniki/hidden_wiring/hw-1a.jpg This project which I undertook was not so much one big upgrade but rather many little side jobs which worked together to ultimately give the engine bay the "neat and tidy" look. Part of the simple look includes hiding as much wiring as possible. The idea of hidden wiring became a very tempting choice for me once the engine was out and I was in the process of restoring the engine bay. (I was devastated when my original block developed fatigue cracks and the engine had to be rebuilt but in another way, I was completely relieved that I can finally do the engine bay properly...
This applies to the 'accessory' gauges: OIL, FUEL, TEMP.  It does not apply to speedometers, tachometers or warning (idiot) lights.  I wrote it in plain, simple English so you don't need to be an Electrical Engineer to understand it.  It is a basic overview, not a technical bible.  Ford kept things very simple with the gauges - less moving parts, less components to fail and for the most part no numbers. The exception to that last one is the oil pressure gauge.   The general rule of thumb with Ford gauges (other than fuel) is that centered is normal, slightly either side of centered is okay.   The acceptable low Oil pressure rule is 10 PSI for each 1000 RPM, so 2500 RPM = 25 PSI.  That is pretty useless considering that the Oil gauge...
I've thought about making up color-coded wiring diagrams focused on the alternator and voltage regulator for some time. The question came up again the other day on how and what the different wires were connected to. So, I decided to do it, one diagram for cars without factory ammeters, one for cars with factory ammeters, and a bonus of a 3G wiring diagram. If anybody spots any errors, please let me know, so I can correct it. EDIT: updated diagrams 05132018
Run down to Hobby Lobby (or your local equivalent) and grab some K&S Brass tubing.  The tubes are about a foot long and they have many diameters. You should measure your wire diameter or bring a piece with you to get the smallest one that the wire will slide in smoothly. I have found that the 1/8" works well for 20 gauge wire, 5/32 works for 18 and many 16 gauge wires. Back at the ranch, file one end of the tube to a point.  {this is where I insert all the lawyer talk about disconnecting the battery, making sure you aren't going to damage existing wires or components, etc... Basically I will tell you what to do, HOW you actually do it is on you.} Find an existing rubber grommet, plug, etc on your firewall to feed your new wire...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Wire%20Connectors,%20Terminals,%20Ties,%20Clamps%20and%20Accessories&category=180&refine=1&page=GRID Marine Wire Connectors, Terminals, Wire Ties, Cable Clamps, Heat Shrink Tubing explained Is there really any difference between "Marine Grade" and "Automotive Grade" electrical wiring components? In a word yes. Marine electrical wiring must survive in the harshest of conditions. Saltwater corrosion resistance, heat, oil, fuel and overall chemical resistance are all important considerations. Automotive grade (SAE, Society of Automotive Engineers) wire is typically constructed from bare copper stranded wire. Bare copper wire has no special...
Have a pretty good current draw when the car is off? Here's my trouble-shooting guide to shorts: When ready to check out the harness, close all doors, turn off all lights, ignition key in the OFF position, accessories off, etc. Make sure both battery connectors are disconnected. Connect the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid. Leave the negative terminal disconnected from the battery. Then use a digital volt meter to measure the current draw across the battery. Place one probe of the DVM on the negative battery cable terminal, and the other probe on the negative battery post. Be sure that the DVM is set to amps, DC. If there are no shorts in the wiring connections, the reading should be on the order of 30 milliamps or less...
I just recently swapped my Amps gauge for a Volts gauge. This was a complete bolt in replacement with no Mustang pieces having to be altered at all (with the exception of altering the wiring). Mine wasn't set up for an amps gauge so wiring to a voltage source and ground was easy. If you are wired for amps I would simply tape the original wiring off and run a new lead to volts and the other to ground. Here were the steps: 1)Purchase a SunPro Customline CP7985 voltage gauge. I was looking at a Bosch option too but this was more readily available. 2) Disconnect your center panel then remove the gauge pod assembly. 3) Remove the retainers holding the lens on. 4) Simply unbolt the amps gauge and remove. 5) Carefully remove...
1971-1973 POWER MIRROR TUTORIAL PART 1 - GETTING STARTED. INTRODUCTION. Hi to all and welcome to my first power mirror tutorial, one in ten. In this first tutorial i will be dealing with getting started for the whole project ahead. As i said in my initial post, the work involved in carrying out this project needs to be precise,and accurate as possible, to achieve a good finished product that performs in all departments.YOU WILL NEED TO STICK WITH MY PLANS IN DETAIL TO BRING THIS OFF. If for whatever reason you decide to deviate from what i have done in any way, then any potential problems that may occur,because of that, will be your problems to sort out yourself. On the other hand, if you find that i have made a mistake with any...

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