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Agreed. Could I just put the TKO NSS in series with the ignition solenoid red/blue wire? 

I'll have to look at the wires I tucked away at the battery. There are 2 red with blue? I have one going to the solenoid of my starter.

So the only two wires I'm using from the original starter solenoid is the red/blue I mentioned and the 12V fused link that I have going to a power distribution block off the battery. Everything else is wrapped up and tucked away. I didn't need the coil wire since I'm using the full hyperspark...

I like we're this is going because it makes a lot of sense. I just need to understand the jumper idea?  I'm not using the factory "S" "I" block. My mini starter has a solenoid on it. As mentioned earlier, I have direct power from the starter to battery and the solenoid directly to that red/blue...

No switch on the terminal. Everything is brand new on this.

Roger that Don, next time it happens I'll be sure to keep a meter with me to check.

I think that wire runs back to the ignition switch so maybe I can tap from there? If this is the case why does it work 90% of the time? Or seemingly only give me an issue when hot?

CVR mini torque starter has 2/0 wire going directly to the battery and the small terminal which I think is a jumper to the solenoid on the starter is soldered to the red/blue strip wire that was on the factory solenoid. 

I started asking about this earlier but every once in a while I'll run into a not start condition. When I mean not start I mean when I turn the key into the 1st position the dash comes up and the fuel pump primes (I'm fuel injected) but when I go to start its like someone removed the battery...

I'm running a 408, 5 speed (.82), 3:89's with a 27" tire. 1st gear is pretty useless. I'm running nitto 555R II's and can blow the tires away with ease at the top of 2nd. Haven't tried 3rd yet. I don't race the car but it is fun to drive around town. 

Me and a couple of guys from work on Friday.

Unfortunately Don I don't have that information. My builder seems to have disappeared. Knowing that things would have to come apart after just going together isn't going to happen. This will have to get addressed the next time things come apart.

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/

Just info on mine. I'm running EFI controlled. 2 12" spal that are about 3200 cfm total. I'm running a 185 stat with 1 fan turning on at 195 and the 2nd at 200. Car will hit 200 sitting at a light on 90+ day but will cool itself down. Never goes above 200 and mine is a mild built 408c. Do you...

It's been a long 4.5 years putting this together. She did awesome on the dyno and runs awesome on the street. Think I'm just going to drive it until she gives me a reason not to. If she wants to mark her territory everywhere she goes...so be it.

As far as these things go how bad does it look? Is there anything better I could do for crankcase ventilation? Might not even be a problem to begin with. Guess there is really know way of telling how long my clutch has huh?

Just when everything was awesome... Well here we go again. I've posted in the past and found my oil pan was infact leaking from the rear bolts against the bell. Sealed that up the best I could and thought I had it. Decided to take a peak inside the bell with my cheap camera scope and found...

I like it! 👍 18's are where it's at for these cars.

Can't believe it but I think I have this figured out. So I'm 98% sure that my Volante wheel hub is binding to the column. I for S&G's put my old wheel back on and it was night and day. I could move the wheel with 2 fingers and there was some spring back if I tossed the wheel in either...

Don't think I want to detune the pump any because that would effect my brakes which feel good. I'd rather not have to do this but I'm guessing I'll have to get the heidt's adjustable valve and install it in between my hydroboost and power steering box. This way I'm only changing the flow to the...